88 Gxl na smokes at high rpms
 

I was wondering since it only smokes at high rpms if I could be anything else besides my oil control rings .?

The control rings are the most likely culprit. My old NA engine would do the same thing.

That's was I was thinking I was wondeeing if it could be anything else looks like I need a rebuild or buy an engine

Them being bad doesn't mean you need a rebuild, it just means you'll go through oil faster.

Check your engines compression before you decide to get a rebuild and see where you stand.

Well I just did an oil change about 500 miles ago and it ate through all that oil already havnt done a compression test yet

Wow then they must be pretty bad. I was figuring slightly higher consumption but that's much worse.

Yea I have to constantly check the oil

Are you sure you don't have any leaks?

That's what I thought but I checked and there was any leaks

How many miles are on the car? I'm sure it must be high. 150k+ range.

What weight oil are you using? I always used 20w50 castrol gtx, unless the temps were very cold in the winter(which depends on where you live).

There's Only 86k And It Smoke Crazy At High Rpms

It must of been beaten on and not taken care of well as far as oil changes etc.

It Sat For 4 Years The Guy Couldn't Get It Started I Started It And It Drives Amazing Just Eats Oil Like Crazy

Mine sat for almost a year and it had spun bearings. Mines Turbo, so it was obviously beaten on and not maintained right.

I have a build thread in the builds section if you want to check it out.

Alright Yeaa ill check it out I'm sure I need a rebuild or buy one off from a user on here

Let us all be logical for a moment, shall we?

When he says his car burned thru all of that oil, that is likely a bit wrong. Surprisingly, a lot of people do not understand how to check their oil, let alone properly. Between the low and full marks on your dipstick, that only represents roughly a quart of oil inside the engine. It does NOT represent the total amount of oil in the engine .

These are questions that people should be asking the OP before they got spewing ignorant assumptions.

Needs a rebuild? Over what? A little oil smoke at the top of the rev range? That is completely normal for a high mileage factory motor.

One of the 7's I pulled out of a field after years of being inoperable smoked like a freight train for several days worth of driving before it only started smoking around 6500 revs.

Jesus H. Christ, the question about what kind of oil the OP is using is the only reply that is worth a damn.

Sent from my ECU using the Check Engine Light.

Ok No One Asked You To Get All Smart Or Be An Asshole About The Situation I Know How To Check Oil And I've Talked To People That Actually Rebuild Them And They Also Say I Can Be An Oil Control Ring

Why Do You Feel The Need To Capitalize Every Word In Your Sentences? :scratch:

Yes, you are correct.. It could very well be the oil control rings as they are the most common cause of oil smoke higher up in the rev range. Now, that being said, if your reading comprehension skills are really that terrible that I have to explain this to you, fine:

I wasn't attacking *you*, I was actually defending you to the ignorant flood of responses.

Don't get your panties in a twist, child... :smoker:

Well I'm Sorry For Responding That Way It Just Seemed The Way You Was Responding It Was Towards Me

Yeah when you said "all that oil" I was wondering how much you meant. Did you run it till the pan was completely dry? Probably not.

No didn't run it til it was dry but it was getting very close had to put 2 quarts in

The entire system holds around 4.5 quarts or so.
I guess I shouldn't have went under the assumption that he knows how to read his dipstick. Ace is right it only represents the last quart that tops off the system.

If he ran it until it was actually empty the engine would have no oil pressure , therefor no lubrication, and oil also contributes to cooling the engine so it will not only have no protection to the internals, it will also cause overheating.

Wouldn't take long before engine failure occurs.

I understand that you took it to literall that all the oil was gone was just stating that it lost a llarge amount in short time

My 87 Na did similar thing, used 5 quarts per week ... :icon_tdow

What did you end up doing rebuild.?

Yes, need to take her out and rebuild it. Its currently to cold outside so its just sitting and waiting for things to happen. :nod:

The rubber oil control rings do get bad over time and allow for some oil to pass through, it gets worse over time. Either they just dont seal well anymore or they will develop fissures, or break apart completely. I tried to stop or slow down the oil consumption with stop leak and seal sweller stuff, its no use. It may delay the rebuild maybe a month or two, but if you are leaking enough oil in the chambers that it starts to smoke its done for. Thicker oil might get you a few extra months too, but there is no way around a rebuild. I had massive clouds of smoke upon startup, then it was ok. Tailpipes went black, and the smell was devastating. Only option is take out the motor and rebuild it. I had the misfortune of having bad (clogged/bad spray pattern) injectors too, so starting was a real adventure. There is a vid on my site about starting it up. 1987 Mazda Rx7 EU-Spec | THRLL.com

Atkinsrotary.com sells viton oil control rings, they are far superior and much more resistant agains chemicals than the old rubber stuff. So thats what I use in all my rebuilds. If you ara at it, try to get new metal oil control rings too. They holt the rubber oil rings in place on the rotor and slide over the side plates, so its a wear item. Same for the oil control springs, if they are used, they loose their tension and the whole point of the oil control rings is gone. Its like installing worn oil rings in a piston motor...

Steven

Right thanks For The Tips I Personal Don't Have The Knowledge To Rebuild Her I've Rebuild A Piston Engine But Will Have To Have Someone Rebuild My Engine For Me

If you can rebuild a piston engine this should be no problem, just watch the videos and do a little reserch

+1

Rebuilding my n/a was easier than any piston engine I've built (aside from small singles).

Just make sure everything is in spec, you have the right pieces and torque values, and it goes together very easily.

Exactly, get a atkinsrotary master kit for your specific engine and look for rebuild vids on youtube and there you go. Its easy peasy ^^