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87 Turbo 2 cranks but will not start.
This is my first RX7. It’s an 87 Turbo 2. I have downloaded and gone through the FSM and the FAQ here in this forum, but I’m not having much luck. The engine cranks, but it seems slow. I’ve ordered an upgraded starter from Banzai racing because the starter sounded like it was struggling. I also put a new battery in the vehicle. I did the deflooding procedure and replaced all four spark plugs. I verified I have spark and fuel going to the fuel rail. I will attempt to deflood the engine again when the new starter arrives (tomorrow). I have not done a compression test however when I did the deflood without the plugs in the fuel came out of the plug holes at a pretty fast rate. The vehicle has some unconnected connectors in the engine bay as well as under the dash. I scoured the wiring diagrams attempting to locate what these connectors power but I wasn’t able to find it. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7e390211d.jpeg Drivers side engine bay near strut tower https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fa8614300.jpeg Near fuel rail https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8dcb71bc5.jpeg Under dash https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1e3d639cb.jpeg Drivers side https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...19eb5cc2f.jpeg Under dash |
Bump. Any help is appreciated. Still can not identify what these connectors go to. Especially the one under the dash |
I believe the blue one under the dash is an audio connection for the left front dash speaker. The one to the right of it looks to be maybe for the logicon... Its had to tell . Do the heater controls work properly?
The first one you posted is the female connector for the auto adjusting suspension. No the car did not come with it but the harness is there due to other markets being able to get it on the TII. The green female connectors by the coil do not go to anything. They are diagnostic connectors. I'l look at my 10AE for the other two and let you know. As far as it not starting, there's a good chance that the engine needs rebuilt. Without warming it up to normal operating temperature, you will not be able to get solid compression numbers from a rotary compression tester. You will have to pull the plugs and crank the engine over and listen for the pulses. You could also use a piston compression tester with the schrader valve removed and look for even spikes as the engine makes compression on each face. This can tell you if you have a low pulse, indicating the need for a rebuild. |
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