The 7 pisses me off sometimes.........help me get my TII Running :(
 

All this time and it is still not running. If you have seen me post before, I had no power to the pump. Well I have fixed my fuel problem by making a switch for it. So I am getting spark and fuel, but engine doesn't want to startup. I compression tested it and had 99-100 psi on both rotors on the engine and its cold too so it should be higher when at normal op. So what can it be? We tried playing with the CAS, but nothing works. The engine has fired up before when I ran the fuel pump off the battery a few months ago. Tried ATF in the lower plug holes, and still wont start. I dont want to part it out, so I am gonna try my best to get it started and hope you rx7 owners can help me.

can anyone help me plz?

ATF will foul your plugs.

1. Fuel. You have this ok
2. Spark. You have this ok
3. Compression. You have this ok
4. Motor in time. You did this I hope - Ok
5. All hoses hooked up right and no leaks. You did this right - Ok


^ If that checks out your car is flooded.

Well if my car was flooded, the ATF should of done the trick.

there was this thingy i did to get my brother's gxl running that had the same symptoms as your car. aligned the pulleys and cas for timing. he tries to crank the engine and i turned the cas back and forth simultaneously. i don't know if its good or bad but i got the car to start then i timed it. afterwards it started ok. good luck.

we just got my brother's 88 TII up and running too but the cluster's gauges are dead, except for the lights.

Yes, me and my friend are planning to do some more stuff with the timing involving cas. I'll try your method tommorow, but anyone else got any methods let me know.

i would think it is a timing issue, iirc if the worm gear is installed incorrectly the timing marks will not align up as they should, try installing the CAS in varying positions and see if it wants to fire up rather than just being a "cold fish".

Well, it doesn't take much to diagnose.

You need air (duh), compression (checked, ok!), fuel (getting fuel in the chambers? injectors firing?), and spark (easy to check), after that it's just the timing.

DAMN RX-7 TIMING! I'LL BE SURE TO TRY STUFF TOMMOROW. AFTER THE SUPER BOWL THAT IS. I'm going for the seahawks just because I think they have a better record. Thanks guys for the help. And yes, I got spark, fuel in the chambers coming in and out return lines, you can hear the injectors firing, so its the timing. I've read stories of others problems, so it probably is just that.

Haha, I'm hoping the seagulls choke on a french fry midgame. ;)

Well, I hope I make some money tommorow.

you'll need it for the 7. :D

Try this method.
1. Put the pulley on top dead center
2. Remove off Crank angle sensor.
3. Open the black cover from the CAS
4. Look for the small little dot on the side of the shaft of the CAS.
5. Now line it up with one of the teeth"Look for a small arrow or a dot."Bottom gear from CAS.
6. Now mark one of the teeth that lines up with that dot. Top gear of CAS. Because once you put the CAS back inside the whole. You will not see that dot at all, because it will be inside the front plate. All you will be looking at now is the mark you made on the Top gear of CAS.
6. Once you mark the teeth. Put the CAS back inside the whole. Make sure you line this up as best as you can..
Hope that help's
If this confused you, hit me up pmme.

Good luck finding TDC on the pulley, it isn't marked! 5* ATDC is though!

When I restab the cas I do pretty much the above.

Put the mark on 5* ATDC (first mark on the right of the pulley looking from the front bumper back)
remove cas & black cover
line up the 'dot' on the gear to the mark on the CAS shaft
I then place my thumb on the gear (The top one obviously) and hold it in place (verify your dot is still lined up as sometimes it moves when you touch it)
Slowly put the CAS into it's hole (don't push it down fully yet), kind of get the stud centered in the adjustment range (where you bolt it down at), then slowly push the CAS downwards, once you feel it start to touch the worm gear, you'll notice that the gear your thumb is on wants to turn to the right slightly, turn the ENTIRE cas along with it (so the gear never moves seperate from the CAS) until it's flush against the front cover, this usually results in the stud being at about 1/3rd of the adjustment range, (about 1/3rd on the left of the bolt, 2/3rds on the right). With this method, so long as it was assembled right, it'll usually be within a degree or two of being set dead on.

Note: If it doesn't want to turn to the right as your dropping it in, and it seems to go to the left a hair and it sits about 50/50 or 60/40 (note, percentages are left of the bolt/right of the bolt) you're likely off a tooth. This is why it's important to make sure you don't let the gear spin freely, as it's hard to tell which way it goes unless you hold it in place which forces the entire CAS to turn.

Oh, and also, left and right are assumed that you're leaning over the drivers side fender for orientation (left being towards the front bumper, right being towards the rear of the car)

RX's can be a PITA that is why I give mine girl names. Cause they can make you feel soooo good or soooo bad.

Pull and clean plugs or replace them Line the pulley on first mark. take the cap off the CAS line dot up on shaft. Here's a pic where the pick-up should be.


Good Luck
Johny

i've clean the plugs. The plugs are basically brand new.Still shiny.

I think I got my directions wrong, it should rotate to the left IIRC, anyway you'll notice it want to rotate as you drop it in, and just turn the entire CAS along with it in whatever direction it wants to go (pretty sure it's left), I've had to restab CAS's at least 100+ times, and so long as you follow the rotation, and you end up with about 1/3rd of the gap on the left of the bolt, you should be good. That picture on the previous page looks like they let the center rotate freely of the CAS itself, thus why the bolt is in the center, which is what you want to try to avoid. If you do it properly, you'll be within 2 degrees of where you need to be. If it doesn't start after that, you either have a fuel delivery issue or very weak spark/etc.

Well, I tried it and it went in with 1/3 space left to the right of the bolt. Is that right? And could ECU be a factor? I get spark and fuel is ran off the battery, but is the ecu doin anything else that could affect the startup, because my car got rained on in the interior but I dont know if water got into the ecu or not. but it is still sending spark, so Im thinkin its ok. I'm gonna try for another month and if I cant figure it out, I might take it to rotary specialists. Whats the closest rotary shop. Im in Fresno, CA.

Oh yea, I have 135 psi compression on both rotors now. I dont know why. Maybe the atf fluid i threw in brought it up higher?

I'm gonna try some more with the CAS after the super bowl. Any other help, well be great.