6 Port Turbo. HOW DO I DELETE AFM WITH PARALLEL ECU INSTALL?
 

Hi guys! I'm doing a parallel ecu install in my S5 6 port turbo. I will be using a Haltech Sport 1000 but would like to retain my stock ecu to control everything else besides Injectors and Ignitions. My 6 port turbo setup will have functioning 5th/6th ports for the low end torque. Before people start flipping out- YES I know the Haltech can control most of the factory functions but I just want the Haltech to certain functions FOR now. I would like to delete my AFM if I can (I understand the Haltech can do that). The question is how do I accomplish a parallel installation without an AFM? I understand removing AFM with the factory ecu will definiately throw a code.

If your factory ecu won't be controlling timing or fuel, then what do you want it to control?

I would like it to control everything else like ac, dash, headlights, solenoids, mileage sensor, foglight, etc. Pretty much most of the factory functions that the stock ecu does a pretty good job at controlling. I eventually want the Haltech to control the 5th and 6th ports but right now I just need to get the car moving until I get it to the dyno. The Haltech will be wired to the Injectors, Ignitions, TPS, CAS, Air temp, Coolant temp, and Power/ground. My setup is going to be very different.

^The stock ECU does not really "control" any of those things.... I'd recommend you spend some time studying the the factory shop manual and factory wiring diagrams for your FC and get yourself a thorough understanding of just what the ECU does & does not control, as well of an understanding of why certain ancillary inputs/outputs are wired to the stock ECU. What you're going to figure out is that there is no need to retain the stock ECU if you're going with a capable, modern aftermarket ECU.

As a case in point, let's consider the AC. In a series 5 FC, the only thing the stock ECU does with the AC is interrupt the compressor's operation for about the 1st few seconds or so after you mat the throttle in gear, to reduce the load on the engine and improve initial acceleration. If you decide you don't need this function, you can simply jumper the two appropriate wires in the factory harness together when you ditch the stock ECU, and your AC will work just fine. Or if your Haltech Sport 1000 has enough spare I/O channels to support it, you can probably figure out how to have the Haltech control your AC.

Hey man thanks for your input. When you meant by jump the appropriate wires do you mean splice the wires together? Thanks

Yup, that's exactly it. There are 2 wires going to the stock ECU for the AC, so if your going to just leave the stock ECU harness onboard, find those 2 wires and splice them together. Or if you're going to remove the stock ECU harness to sell it & clean up the install, you can access the same 2 wires by the AC relay that is in front of the radiator. This is where the factory wiring diagram comes in handy, as you'll have to trace the wires on the schematic to figure out which two to splice together - they go thru a few connectors and wire color changes along the way.

Ok. My ac still works so I want to keep it. So does this also apply to headlights, dash, and other solenoids inputs on the stock harness?

Great info has already been posted!

My advice, purchase the ECU from Chris Ludwig (LMS EFI) along with a completed harness for your car. Everything will be plug and play, and Chris will answer ANY question that you may have.