575rwhp and fully streetable?
#51
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This debate could go on forever and get side tracked many times while getting there. I'm going to make my own definition for streetable...
Streetable: The ability for a vehicle to be driven on the street.
500 hp rx7's can do that with ease. There's your answer, everything else like gas mileage, emissions, streetable torque and power are irrelevant in this conversation but if someone would like to start a new thread and discuss things like this be my guest cuz I have a 3 day weekend....
Streetable: The ability for a vehicle to be driven on the street.
500 hp rx7's can do that with ease. There's your answer, everything else like gas mileage, emissions, streetable torque and power are irrelevant in this conversation but if someone would like to start a new thread and discuss things like this be my guest cuz I have a 3 day weekend....
#52
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#53
The Doctor
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I don't understand what the point of that video was. That's a full 1/4 chassis car running meth/alky on a motor that probably gets taken apart between races.
I consider something streetable when you don't have to rebuild the motor every few months. You don't have to constantly check gauges for pressures/temperatures while driving down the road wondering if it is so high on something, it might blow. And roasting the tires on lower whp cars is easy, you just kick the clutch. It's more of a hassle with high power cars, you could be easing on the throttle to accelerate on a on ramp to the highway and all of a sudden find yourself looking back up the on ramp.
For example. Say its a normal Tuesday and you have to go to work. You look outside and see its raining so you grab the keys for the DD (in this example, we'll use a truck). Go outside and see that it decides not to start today. Crap, that means your stuck taking the 7. Have any of you new FC owners ever driven anything else RWD besides your FC in the rain? Once you pass a certain power point, it's like trying to drive on snow or ice. Say your pulling up to the exit of your neighborhood, a 4 lane divided highway with no light for them to stop and a stop sign for you. In this situation, the truck could have easily been able to pull across the intersection and into traffic so you could be on your way to work. Well too bad your not in your truck. You go to give it a little gas and let out the clutch. Start to cross the intersection. You notice traffic is coming up a little quick so you press the gas down a little further. Next thing you know, the back end has kicked out and your now facing head on with the traffic coming your way. You decide whats going to happen next.
Not to dis on the FC crowd, but I can't even count how many times my FC has left me in this situation. And how many times I've avoided it with luck. And its not even turbo! I'm sure everyone with experience with these has been in the same situation at some point. And all know it could have been avoided by driving something with less power and more practicality for the road conditions.
Don't get me wrong. If its a nice sunny day out in the 70's, I'd love to go cruise the streets for a weekend or so with something with some power. But thats just it. A weekend. Why daily something that sucks your wallet clean of gas money. You could make that money back paying payments on something new thats economical.
IMO, it depends on the actual drivability of the car and the conditions of the road. If its a nice sunny day out and my mother is still having a problem spinning into 3rd gear, maybe its time for something a little more street-worthy.
Just curious. Aaroncake, you have a 6-port bridge that is decently modded and you drive it semi-often. How many miles/km do you get on a full tank of gas? And how much is the gas up there?
I consider something streetable when you don't have to rebuild the motor every few months. You don't have to constantly check gauges for pressures/temperatures while driving down the road wondering if it is so high on something, it might blow. And roasting the tires on lower whp cars is easy, you just kick the clutch. It's more of a hassle with high power cars, you could be easing on the throttle to accelerate on a on ramp to the highway and all of a sudden find yourself looking back up the on ramp.
For example. Say its a normal Tuesday and you have to go to work. You look outside and see its raining so you grab the keys for the DD (in this example, we'll use a truck). Go outside and see that it decides not to start today. Crap, that means your stuck taking the 7. Have any of you new FC owners ever driven anything else RWD besides your FC in the rain? Once you pass a certain power point, it's like trying to drive on snow or ice. Say your pulling up to the exit of your neighborhood, a 4 lane divided highway with no light for them to stop and a stop sign for you. In this situation, the truck could have easily been able to pull across the intersection and into traffic so you could be on your way to work. Well too bad your not in your truck. You go to give it a little gas and let out the clutch. Start to cross the intersection. You notice traffic is coming up a little quick so you press the gas down a little further. Next thing you know, the back end has kicked out and your now facing head on with the traffic coming your way. You decide whats going to happen next.
Not to dis on the FC crowd, but I can't even count how many times my FC has left me in this situation. And how many times I've avoided it with luck. And its not even turbo! I'm sure everyone with experience with these has been in the same situation at some point. And all know it could have been avoided by driving something with less power and more practicality for the road conditions.
Don't get me wrong. If its a nice sunny day out in the 70's, I'd love to go cruise the streets for a weekend or so with something with some power. But thats just it. A weekend. Why daily something that sucks your wallet clean of gas money. You could make that money back paying payments on something new thats economical.
IMO, it depends on the actual drivability of the car and the conditions of the road. If its a nice sunny day out and my mother is still having a problem spinning into 3rd gear, maybe its time for something a little more street-worthy.
Just curious. Aaroncake, you have a 6-port bridge that is decently modded and you drive it semi-often. How many miles/km do you get on a full tank of gas? And how much is the gas up there?
#54
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i'm sitting at just over an estimated 400 hp and i could daily drive my car if i felt like dealing with the rock hard suspension and horrific fuel mileage. just comes down to how deep your pockets are.
#56
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My Saturn SC2 on the other hand, with traction control, can drive through close to a foot of snow and not get stuck, I love that car
#57
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i think i can get 20 highway out of it if i try, i havent tuned it for mileage very well.
#58
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But this conversation is about streetability... so here's the situation, you're making a left turn across traffic and misjudge the distance and speed a car is approaching so you need to accelerate quickly so you hit the accelerator... If we're talking streetability which setup is more likely to make it out before getting smashed a 500hp all motor vette or boosted 500hp 13b. Show me any engine that can spool a decent sized turbo in a fraction of a second please.
#59
Sharp Claws
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the ignorance in this thread is giving me a headache...
power is easily controlled in a high horsepower rotary, in those V8's mentioned with low RPM high torque curves they are much less controllable at low throttle inputs.
for example, in a large turbo 7 you feel and see the boost rise and have plenty of time to unbury your foot from the throttle before it hits even 5 PSI and starts to build boost rapidly from there. the only people i know of who say their cars are too difficult to drive are trying to drive in horrible conditions with tires that are not meant for wet or icy weather in a light sports car that even at stock power levels will have a difficult time staying straight.
power is easily controlled in a high horsepower rotary, in those V8's mentioned with low RPM high torque curves they are much less controllable at low throttle inputs.
for example, in a large turbo 7 you feel and see the boost rise and have plenty of time to unbury your foot from the throttle before it hits even 5 PSI and starts to build boost rapidly from there. the only people i know of who say their cars are too difficult to drive are trying to drive in horrible conditions with tires that are not meant for wet or icy weather in a light sports car that even at stock power levels will have a difficult time staying straight.
#60
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That's simple. You punch the gas in the Vette, if it doesn't have TCS you spin the wheels and wind up facing the oncoming car(because you have these wonderful gobs of good low end torque) and die. In the big turbo Rx7 you punch the gas and put-put through the intersection before the turbo spools up all while under complete control.
#61
RX-7 Old Timer
That's strange reasoning. You shouldn't have to let your foot off to retain the same torque at the wheels. Linear throttle at all RPMS and boost levels is the best for control. That's why medium-large displacement NA engines are really nice. We don't get that with Turbo motors. They are nice, but they have their drawbacks.
#62
Sharp Claws
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That's strange reasoning. You shouldn't have to let your foot off to retain the same torque at the wheels. Linear throttle at all RPMS and boost levels is the best for control. That's why medium-large displacement NA engines are really nice. We don't get that with Turbo motors. They are nice, but they have their drawbacks.
#63
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NA power: 1/2 throttle = half horsepower (roughly) = very predictable
turbo power: 1/2 throttle = sluggish response depending on rpm, boost settings and ambient temp = must less predictable.
turbo power: 1/2 throttle = sluggish response depending on rpm, boost settings and ambient temp = must less predictable.
#64
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As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I sort of alternate between the Honda and the RX-7 when the weather is good (roughly April to Nov.). I usually end up putting 10,000 - 15,000 KM on the car each year. Fuel mileage is abysmal at under 200 KM per tank in the city, but you are going to have that problem with any bridgeport. Highway mileage is far more reasonable. Fuel costs vary, but I generally pay between $1.10 and $1.30 per litre for 91 octane.
#65
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If we were talking about that kind of power out of a 3-rotor, I'd say it could be streetable...
For that matter, a 13B making 600 theoretically is streetable... I just wouldn't want to have to deal with driving with that little low-end power. 600hp 13B as a daily driver? hell no.
For that matter, a 13B making 600 theoretically is streetable... I just wouldn't want to have to deal with driving with that little low-end power. 600hp 13B as a daily driver? hell no.
#67
Sharp Claws
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If we were talking about that kind of power out of a 3-rotor, I'd say it could be streetable...
For that matter, a 13B making 600 theoretically is streetable... I just wouldn't want to have to deal with driving with that little low-end power. 600hp 13B as a daily driver? hell no.
For that matter, a 13B making 600 theoretically is streetable... I just wouldn't want to have to deal with driving with that little low-end power. 600hp 13B as a daily driver? hell no.
#68
rotorhead
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power is easily controlled in a high horsepower rotary, in those V8's mentioned with low RPM high torque curves they are much less controllable at low throttle inputs.
for example, in a large turbo 7 you feel and see the boost rise and have plenty of time to unbury your foot from the throttle before it hits even 5 PSI and starts to build boost rapidly from there. the only people i know of who say their cars are too difficult to drive are trying to drive in horrible conditions with tires that are not meant for wet or icy weather in a light sports car that even at stock power levels will have a difficult time staying straight.
for example, in a large turbo 7 you feel and see the boost rise and have plenty of time to unbury your foot from the throttle before it hits even 5 PSI and starts to build boost rapidly from there. the only people i know of who say their cars are too difficult to drive are trying to drive in horrible conditions with tires that are not meant for wet or icy weather in a light sports car that even at stock power levels will have a difficult time staying straight.
My earlier points about traction are that it takes DISCIPLINE and focus to keep high horsepower rotaries under control, just like with any other car I guess. It's not a relaxed drive. If you zone out and get on your cell phone while taking a turn, you could easily put the car in a ditch. It's not like my Q45 which is about as idiotproof of a V8 RWD car as you can get.
#69
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I got to drive a 1400hp big block Nova over the summer. I drove it for a day, from about 9am to about midnight. Had to fill up with gas 2 times during the day, got pulled over for making too much noise, and once because the officer claimed the car was running full slicks. But other then that, it was fine. If I set my foot into it going anything less then 100mph, it did work on 16.5" ET Streets.
Streetable, yes. I think any amount of power is streetable. ****, Id take a spin in a top fuel car for a day!
But in the end, I wouldnt wanna daily drive anything making much over 300whp. Dont really even need that to go the speed limit. Big power is fun to play with from time to time. But Id have no need for it all the time.
So the answer to the question, yes. 575whp is streetable.
Streetable, yes. I think any amount of power is streetable. ****, Id take a spin in a top fuel car for a day!
But in the end, I wouldnt wanna daily drive anything making much over 300whp. Dont really even need that to go the speed limit. Big power is fun to play with from time to time. But Id have no need for it all the time.
So the answer to the question, yes. 575whp is streetable.
#70
lol i had to move my 250 whp fc out of my garage in mid canadian winter the other night, and i had no problems getting back up the snowy driveway, no offence to anyone but control is all you need a rotary engine makes almost no power until you let the rpms rise and put your foot into it