FB331

Ok so i bought this fc for 400 because the owner said he couldnt rely on it and here is his reason why.... he said that he got to work one day and it had a terrible low idle(which it does) but when i got there i asked him if it ran he said yes 146xxxkm so i asked him to start btw i made sure it was cold.

So he starts the car and to his surprise it started first crank. the rpms went above 1500 and was steady but after it warmed up the idle was low and engine was struggling to keep going and shaking a bit but ive seen worse so i offer him 400 and he said yes he just wanted his space back and to get rid of it.

He also said that he took his rx7 to rx7 specalties here in calgary(only rotary shop in southern alberta i think but obviously there is controversy about them i dont care to hear about ) and that he had a compression test and front rotor was above normal and the rear was sufficent and that for him to chase down kremlins in the engine(vacuum leak) would have been to pricey for him pay them to look for so that was a reason for him selling as well

He also had the shop change plugs and wires with ngk stuff and went on about how expensive it was(obviously tho he took it to the shop for something that simple) as well as put in new air filter.

When the car is rvved up its idle is fine only problem is low idle
as well car has full undercoating and 6 inchs up the car and looks decent no rust except where dmaged

problems it has
-driver door handle(outside) doesnt work
-no driver door panel but has armrest(need red one with manual windows
-no rear interior(not a problem but would like to do something eventually)
-low idle problem( some guess's i have from searching would be tps,vacuum leak and some other abreveations bac afm, honestly i have a carbed 12a and dont know much about those abreveations)
-suspension is sad compared to my 88 i had which was stiff....will look around for some parts suggestions maybe
-exhaust leak i think seems like no back pressure
-smells more like gas than my other one which had full straight pipe dual exhaust and this one has cat still(could it be clogged and thats whats causing this?)
- the rear passenger wheel well has damged doenst look to bad
-sunroof needs assitance(

So my main questions being what suggestions there are for the low idle problem as im new to fc's( my other one was wrapped around a pole one night while i was by myself and totalled ill put up pics of it after im done with this thread)
Im thinking vacum leak, one of those abbreviations or fuel filter possibly
and any other suggestions would be great as well to get this seven running like a top again
-btw ill try posting this vid and will follow with two more just gotta make sure they work
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NexF7...oLvM5G4OdJstrZ

FB331

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jl3vI...oLvM5G4OdJstrZ

FB331

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdqyN..._order&list=UL

FB331

these are photos of the car and crash before i knew what i had and why to take care of them btw i have an 84 12a that was my first car as my dd and have owned for almost four years and it almost has 300000 km lol still going
heres the pics

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

nice find for 400 idle can be fixed easy, if you had a vac leak you woud have a high loopy idle. set the tps and the throttle screw

bring her to a exhaust shop and have them fix your leaks. I fixed mine with that exhaust puddy from autozone had a few small holes in the muffler.. easy fix. keep a eye in the classifieds for interror parts and you will have a nice sporty car! congats!

Zomg-Rx7

I would just make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks if you don't just turn the idle up a little you should be in the 700-800s range ....that looked lower then it should be

onefastrx712a

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have the right idea. Here is a good thread ---> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...uim+adjustment

I had a couple 1st gens but they got flooded in the hurricane (half way up the windshield) Welcome to FC section

Zomg-Rx7

+1 my fc is a turbo so correct me if im wrong but the bac valve on most nas do not have the adjustment screw?

FB331

You guys are quicker than 1 st genners for replys I will get some butane tomorrow and spray for leaks and if I don't find anything I will change idle a bit and throw some plates on her on the weekend and take her to exhaust shop. To confirm tho and u don't have to find threads or anything but do u guys know if there is already a decent door handle thread out there I will search when I have more time but would like to know if there is a good one as I'm sure there are tons of useless ones thanks I'll be getting a Haynes manual soon enough lol

FB331

And I have no clue about bac I'm new to Fc so not sure if I can adjust it or not.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Nice find! BAC adjustment on the NA's is the slotted screw in the middle of the upper intake. Vac leaks usually make it idle higher, not lower. Adjust your TPS, BAC and that should get you where you need to be. There's a safety wire 'fix' for the door handle https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/rats-ghetto-door-handle-fix-661051/. Otherwise, buy a used one in the classifieds, or new one from mazdatrix.

FB331

Will start on this as soon as I have time tomorrow but I'm doubting I wil. Thx for the thread on the handle but if I take it out anyways would it be a bad idea to have a friend tak weld it or is there a lot of plastic present? Btw I found some good threads already to help this so far will update back

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

The problem is that the material the problematic arm is made out of is cast of pot metal. It does not weld well at all. No adhesive has been proven to work either. I really suggest getting a used/new one because you'll wish you had when you're removing the door handle a second time. Also, re-keying your lock is quite easy. There's a how-to thread on here about it.

FB331

Some one commented on the you tube video saying I have low compression anyone here agree or is he just blowing smoke anyways I'm on my way home from work and will adjust tps bac tonight and see if there is any difference

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Dosnt SEEM like it has low comp at all. starts good, runs good, dosnt smoke hardly but there is always tha maybe. Have you checked all the fluids? Make sure there all up to par and keep a eye on them. It just seems like a idle issue witch is a easy fix. Just be patient, take your time.

FB331

Ye one thing I remember is he said coolant needs topping up sometimes and I filled the overfill when I got it but I'll check it just about to go into the freezing night to fiddle with it

FB331

Well the multimeter I got is got a frack load of setting and no instructions so I need to decifer it and update as far as the car goes when it's warm and gets revved up and idle goes down it will stall if I don't help it and either there is a coolant leak( didn't see anything under car) I filled it last night but didn't check it before I started it or it burned a overfill tank worth while warming up for 5 minutes??
No smoke that i could see while revving. maybe it needs a rad flush?? I will be setting TPS tomorrow after work hopefully I can get some light.

And if this coolant thing means rebuild would it be cheaper to get a trusted engine or should it be rebuilt just curious don't even know if it's bad yet?

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

To 'solve' a 'low idle', not a hunting idle problem (which you dont have), there is a flat head 'screw' on top of the throttle body (usually covered with a black cap to prevent someone from messing with it), this screw will adjust airflow into the intake at idle. if its been screwed down too far it will cause low rpm's, and if screwed back out too much itll result in high rpm's, adjusting it and it alone can add/subtract several hundred rpm's, and TPS adjustment can also fine tune an idle.

In the years I had a running FC i never once screwed with the BAC valve (big solenoid thing that has a coolant line running in and out of it on the drivers side of the intake). There is also another solendoid beneath teh BAC valve that if it goes to **** it will cause a hunting idle (this solenoid is the equivalent to the Idle air control valve and mostly is only used when the AC is on or the power steering is in operation when the engine is around idle speeds).

Also check to see if the 'shop' the previous owner took it too used the proper BUR9EQ and BUR7EQ NGK spark plugs, and while you're in there see if the plugs are wet with fuel.

jar2

My 91 n/a has the same stupid low idle issue. If I turn anything like the heat or headlights on it struggles to keep itself alive. I've still eyt to find the problem!

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Don't bother with looking for vacuum leaks yet. Ground the initial set connector, disconnect the BAC once warmed up, and use a combination of the idle air bleed screw on the top of the throttle body, and the throttle plate stop screw to get it idling around ~700 with no load. Tighten everything up, reconnect BAC valve, remove initial set connector and be done with it.

Rx-7fetish

Why disconnect the BAC? Fsm doesn't call for this?

Rx-7fetish

Just went through fsm, disconnecting the BAC will cause the idle to increase if working properly. If he disconnects this then sets idle then re connects it his idle will be even worse. Adjust idle with same instruction he gave but leave BAC plugged in

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Disconnecting the BAC will cause the idle to decrease, and rely solely upon the throttle plates and the bleed screw to control the idle, rather than piggying the BAC to attempt to control idle. Set the mechanical idle, then reconnect the BAC.

Rx-7fetish

Rx-7fetish