350whp without any porting?
 

Is it possible to make around 350whp without any porting done? I would like to know because im going TII in my vert and an picking up a 18k mile engine and would like to know if i can reach my goal without having to port it or if i have to, do it while its out and street port the intake and work over the exhaust ports.


Also can i run a turbo streetport on my vert ecu temporarily until i get the turbo ECU rtek'ed(2.1)? max of 2-3 weeks

not on the stock turbo.

What he said, but easy on stock ports.

did that HP on a stock unopened Jap import engine.

There has been a few people who have made more than 500hp on stock ports and more in FD's. it is possible, but usually better manifolds is what it comes down to. Not the ports on the block. The FD actually has smaller primary ports than the FC blocks and secondaries are so much similar its almost not a visible difference unless you have a detailed view of all seal travel lines. Its all in what you use on the block. FC manifold design is inferior to the later series 6 manifolds and even 13b-re manifolds. More boost is usually what it takes to make the same power.
Might I suggest some informative reading since you will likely be into this more with higher power goals.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...imization.html

Sometimes its the stupid things that make a great difference.

350 is not hard to hit, and actually IMO i wouldn't do any porting to the engine until i'm looking into a really really big turbo. (gt40,45,t51) if you insist on porting, go with a very mild street port if all you're looking for is 350whp. Porting doesn't necessarily mean more power, ports have to match your set up for it to work efficiently. For example, if you have a BNR stage 4, with a bridgeport the turbo will peak then fall on its face on the top end. On the dyno sheet you will see more hp but only before the turbo falls off, so whats more important to you? HP numbers on the dyno sheet or a quicker time on your timeslip?

If this is a streetcar, keep the ports stock. It will save you gas mileage. As previously mentioned, you can make plenty of horsepower on stock ports. Here is a thread about a 700+ HP FD running stock ports https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+record+holder I believe J-rat also made something like 450-550hp on stock ports in his TII. I used to want a crazy bridgeport or peripheral port motor, but have come to the point now where I don't think I would change Mazda's OEM port design unless building a racecar.

Well the car is going to be a Summer DD/Auto-X/Drag Car. So basically a DD and a weekend fun car.

I know i wont be able to do 350whp on a stock turbo or manifold. My plans for later on is to go with one of the newer Himni Racing Turbo upgrade sets which include a better manifold and give many choices for a turbo.

I also want to leave room for more HP if i ever decide i need a little more. I just dont want to go too extreme being it is a vert this is being done to and it needs to be semi-reliable which i know depends on the tuning, quality parts, and maintenance.


The quciker time on the time sheet is always better than a higher HP on a dyno. Not to mention being able to keep blow away almost anything that comes my way on the street.


BTW this is all being done to a S4 TII engine. Is there anything to be aware of for 350whp?

Also if you would like to see what i have planned for parts and let me know if i might be able to be close to my goal of 350whp. I will post that up in a little while

GT35R, EMS/fuel, intercooler and exhaust. You'll just have to push higher boost then you would if ported, but 16 PSI will do 350 HP.

Ok one other question while i work on my list of stuff.

Would it be more reliable to streetport it and use less boost or just stay with stock ports?

Also Aaron that was the exact turbo i was looking at in a kit from Himni.

I'm making 381rwhp @ 19psi on my stock port S4 motor with a TO4E .60/.84

Edit: and 319rwtq

The engine is always going to be more reliable running less boost, and a rebuild will make it more reliable still. A basic street port won't really effect fuel economy very much and a better tune from a standalone will compensate (and then some).

Complete Emissions Removal
ACT Flywheel and S/S HD Clutch
255 Walbro Fuel Pump
Rtek 2.1
Apex’i N1 Duals
720cc Primary Injectors
1600cc Secondaries
Front Mount Intercooler with Greddy, HKS, or Tial Blow off valve
Greddy Profec B II Boost Controller
DEI CryO2 Setup(Optional)


5 HR V2 FC GT35R Turbo Kit
Includes the following:
Ported Anti-Surge Housing
Fully Ceramic Coated
Polished Housing
3” Downpipe
44mm Tial Wastegate


Anything else i should look for or add to my list? Other than basic reliability mods like SS oil cooler lines and Silicone vacuum line.

As far as EMS Rtek 2.1 is the closest to a stand alone i want to go because it will be a DD and a few other things. Gas mileage doesnt bother me.

Also the engine has about 18k on it now which is pretty fresh isnt it?

that depends on what was "rebuilt" 18k ago. if you're lucky they replaced all the seals/gaskets/rotor housings, but more likely its just a new gasket set on old housings/seals.

if it was my car, i wouldn't bother porting it. i'd just build a nice tight stock engine, get a t4, and enjoy

it was a complete atkins rebuild kit. which included seals and all. The place that rebuilt it said everything was to spec. It was also rebuild due to low compression

if you got the money, why not go full standalone before doing big turbo?

i might in time but i dont see me needing it right away. I may change my mind and go straight to a microtech or haltech

standalone might feel like a big chunk of money, but it is a big chunk of money saving you from spending another big chunk; if that makes any sense. With the standalone, everything will run better and also opens up more choices for you if you ever choose to let it all hang loose and upgrade to a very big turbo. its an investment you can say.

i wouldn't run 1680 cc injectors on an Rtek. You are just asking too much of the software.

Pretty sure if you're going with the big turbo upgrade, a full standalone system is pretty much a necessity. Gets rid of the AFM and will get you a better tune for power and reliability. Rtek is best for stock turbo or a hybrid stock turbo (like a BNR).

lol, they grow up so fast. :P

Hehe, it's what i get for lurking when i have nothing else to do, which seems to be quite often :P

what other mods do you have to support this power. and whats the spool like on the TO4E, i know i cant get 300+WHP on stock turbo and porting, but i dont want something laggy either

19 PSI to make 320HP means the turbo is too small. :) A T4B would make that at around 16 PSI. A GT35R at about the same level with better spool. My GT40R puts just over 400 to the ground on 13 PSI.

As for the RTek, it is my opinion that you should stay away from it if running a full turbo upgrade. Using the stock wiring and making out the AFM is just asking for trouble.

he's making 381 at 19psi

Ah, better, but still a crazy boost level.