Is a 260 ft/lb gun good enough for the flywheel nut? rb flywheel question too
 

Just wondering I have a gun thats rated to do 260 ft/lbs of torque @90 psi and i'm taking off my flywheel tommorow (hopefully) so will it to the job to remove it and torque it back down? My compressor is a big 30 gallon 150psi max compressor so I have the air but I'm worried about the gun, my compressor shuts off @ 140psi will that be able to raise it to ~350ish ft/lbs? Next question is my racing beat aluminum flywheel has these bolts that go thru the flywheel to hold the clutch in and I was wondering if this pattern is right for it:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=127543

Its flipped around but now the bolt goes thru the front of the flywheel then the bushing between the pp and backside of the flywheel then the washer and nut in the back of the pp, and is it supposed to bend in the pressure plate to hold it in because theres some gap in the bushing. And the last question of the day is- what is the aftermarket counterweight torqued down too? Thanks alot :)

-Andrew

My craftsman impact gun that came with my kit is rated to 230 ft/lbs and it couldn't budge it worth crap. I have to use my friends 400+ ft/lb impact gun to remove the flywheel nut and front pulley bolt. I also use the 400+ one for finishing off tightening the flywheel nut.

Your bolt looks fine. Tighten it so there is no gap between the flywheel/pplate/spacer. I think the bolts for the counterweight were torqued to 27 ft/lbs maybe? I can't find my installation guide for the RB flywheel, but I'll look some more later.

I shoulda just hit you up on aim, thanks man :) But one important factor that I forgot to mention this is a rebuilt motor with just 3k on it so it was recently torqued down and it wasn't torqued down to 1000 ft/lbs like mazda loves to do :) and i'm guessing when you did yours Ddub it was an original motor. I also searched and ReTed said he uses a 260 gun and it works fine so we'll see.

i've used a 260 walmart CH gun every time and just hammer on it and it has worked.

Yah with the factory torqued nut, I broke an adapter while using the impact trying to get it off :)

Oh and a breaker bar too when I was trying to do it by hand with a 7 foot steel pole :D

Good luck, hope it works out for you, I had no luck with my 230 ft/lb one :(

:wtf:

Damn all of you and your luck! Or maybe I should say damn my bad luck >:|

i blow alot of engines so i'm good at taking the nut off


also, most of mine have been the tearing down of rebuilt engines so they're not torqued on there "mazda tight"

Yeah, I use a Craftsman Professional *electric* 1/2" drive impact gun, and it usually works all the time...on 13BT's (13B-REW's are a whole nother bitch!).
If it doesn't work, I just hit it with a torch, and that kills the threadlocker.

I don't even bother with a gun rated higher than 300 lb-ft.
I've used the same Craftsman Pro gun with threadlocker with no problems.

Now, the 19mm front eccentric shaft bolt is a BIATCH!
I try to hit it with starter trick, as stubborn ones take like a 400+ lb-ft gun to bang them off! :(


-Ted

I use a 250FT-LB electric gun, and while it doesn't always take it off, it performs the "60 degree" tightening proceedure fine.

I basically torque the nut by hand to 150 Ft-LBS, and then turn it 60 degrees with the impact. 60 degrees happens to be the distance between each point on the nut, so just mark it and turn it "one point". This is the Bruce T method. Seems to work.

But yeah, that front nut is a bitch. I have a 12A that I've attacked with a ~1200 ft-LB gun (electric). No effect other then a broken socket.

It came out effortlessly and it was only @100 psi, 2 seconds and boom its off, rb flywheel is in :) thanks guys

-Andrew

My flywheel nut came off easy too. The front e-shaft bolt was another story though.

Now here's a head scratcher for you all....the FSM calls for you to torque that nut to 289-362 pounds feet of torque. BUT, you are supposed to use the SST, which does not have a torque function!

I must have the worst luck in the world with flywheel nuts :(

Even torching it to loosen up the loctite I could never budge it on 3 different engines, 2 of them factory tightened 1 rebuilt.

my friends IR Titanium couldn't budge his flywheel but but my CP gun wizzed it right off, gotta love the 550+Ft/lbs reverse, oh and i got the gun for free, gotta love knowing CP reps

I usually torch it for atleast 15-20 mins with a propane. ITs alot less time if you use map...

And yes, the rew sucks when it comes to removing the flywheel nut. Wtf... they must use locktite and then torque it down to 100000ft/lbs..