1988 cranks and turns over but will not go under 4000
 

Well from the beginning i went to buy a broken down FC almost everything had been stripped out of it, theres no air pump, air control valve power steering pump or any other component that has a belt Except the alternator. Apparently the car had ecu problem and ecu wiring problem, the ecu and the injectors were replaced along with fuel pump spark plugs wires coils and most of the rubber lines in the car. Now we had the car running Very had to start i must say but we could not get it to run under 4000 without it dying and even at one point my friend that was in the car was smoked out by exhaust. When it was running it had no problem staying at 4000 or over. Any ideas what could be causing the rough idle and hard start? I know most of the engine components are missing but i also have another fc and have done quite a bit to get it where it is

large vacuum leaks would probably make it really hard for it to keep running at lower RPM. do the injectors and ECU match with the harness and engine hardware? this sounds like like it may be a basket case.

tell us more about the exhaust smoke. color, smell, how much...

Yupp it's acting like quite a basket case too, When the car does get started it was pouring out smoke from the
Exhaust rich with fuel the ecu was replaced with an n326 same that was in the car, when I got the car there was no spark alot of the ecu harness was unhooked and had to be found out where they went

Also on the right hand side of the engine the air control valve and actuator are not hooked up could that also be affecting it

The ACV is for emissions only but it can serve as a source for a vacuum leak. And check your timing among other things.

Well I just went and picked myself up a timing light and am having another member look at it tomorrow, after changing the idle screw on top of the throttle body the car did get down to 2500-2000 rpm before loosing acceleration control almost as if the car just had lost power, when it was just over 2 the throttle was very unresponsive and seemed like it was bogging. Could this still be timing or just my idle screwed so badly, I went overthe engine aswell and couldn't see any lines off or anything of the sort like that but I don't know too much about the vacuum lines

Fuel filter condition, quality of gas in the fuel tank (full of sluge perhaps), clogged injectors?

Not sure of the condition of the filter and there isn't too much gas in it at the moment I put in about 10 with a bit of injector cleaner, but im not too sure how clean they are apparently they were replaced along with the fuel pump and spark plugs and wires

try a compression test i had similar problems with my car n it turnd out i blew a rotor

Whats the compression suppossed to be on the leading and trailing so I have an idea and I'll go and check, also there is a two wire plug just underneath the sub zero starting assist on the engine, green wire and a black wire on the harness wondering which wire goes to the top

Also just put in another 20 of gas and fuel injector cleaner

Had the car running again this morning too and got it down to 2000 1500 rpm after again screwing with the air idle on top of the throttle body. Also is it normal when you start the car to have no lights on the dash or beeping noise for lights on or door open?

electrical gremlins. might be normal, but it doesn't sound like it's right. my car has its share of quirks, none of them really hurting anything though so I'll get to them eventually.

Before starting the car, w/key to on the idiot lights should light up except the Brake light unless the emergency brake is engaged.

The idle should drop below 1500 rpm when the engine is warmed up. If it does not then you might want to check the operatability of the Thermowax/Fast Idle Cam.

Yes before starting the car w/ key to on position I have no idiot lights on the dash as you say my other 88 does that's why I ask. Is it possible that the fast idle cam is set too high not allowing it to drop enough causing too much gas to go in the engine?

Under the Thermowax is an upside down screw. With the car running press downward on the screw and if the idle drops then the unit for some reason or another is not working properly so see if it drops or not after the car has warmed up. Also, if the car has cruise control make sure the cable for that system is not too tight as it will cause a high idle.

Reason for the idiot lights not illumunating when necessary could be caused by different reasons. With the key to on pull the 2 wire plug off of the back of the alternator and ground the "WHITE/BLACK" wire (not B/W but W/B as there are both in the same plug) and the idiot lights should light up. If not then the problem lies elsewhere.

Just tried to start the car again and almost went but didn't want to go anywhere again it's so weird, if tomorrow I cannot figure this out is there anybody in the area that would like to make a quick buck that knows what there doing and could give me a solid answer I would definitely pay them haha. On another note I'll try again in the morning it's been dark for a bit and getting colder and I hate the cold

And the car no longer wants to run -_- almost starts but just won't fully turn over and keep going

Does the resistor in the right hand side Of the engine beside pressure regulator control the fuel air ratio aswell? This car has a bac and a boost pressure regulator and seems like everything I'm finding out about this car means this guy has really screwed with it

It seems like he has tried to do a turbo conversion and failed?

Alright just went over the vacuum lines today found one line unhooked, also on the left hand side of the fuse box inside of the car where does the top left wire harness connect to I didn't take that good of a look but is it possible that is causing my idiot lights not working

Did you ground the W/B wire at the alternator w/key to on yet to see if the idiot lights turned on? Are you familiar with the responsibility of this wire? With key to on and the engine off, the W/B wire takes a ground signal from the alternator and sends it to the alternator warning light relay in the CPU which then sends a ground signal to the idiot lights which already has the voltage aspect of the circuit and thus awaits the ground signal for the circuit to be completed which causes the lights to turn on. W/key to on you could also take a short lengthed jumper wire and jumper the Black wire in the largest CPU plug, located towards the top of the CPU, and jumper it to the Yellow/Blue wire in the same plug and the lights should turn on. If you do this also check the Black/Yellow wire in this plug for voltage w/key to on. If there is no voltage then the Meter fuse is likely blown.

You need to be more specific with the explanation of the disconnected hose. W/o this specificity it means nothing.

Alright starting to make a but more sense, and just ground the w/b wire with the key on and still no lights, I also have no horn and that is in the CPU aswell is it not. And the vacuum line was connected to a series of lines one connecting to pressure regulator one to releif solenoid valve and the engine only the one from the engine was unhooked

So is the largest plug to the CPU disconnected?

No none of the plugs on the cpu are unplugged but beside the fusebox at the top left there is a green plastic wire harness attached to the box that i cannot find the other end for, below that is 2 other wire harnesses that are plugged in