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Ground control coilover kit install on KYB AGX

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Old 04-09-24, 11:14 PM
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Ground control coilover kit install on KYB AGX

I’m having some trouble figuring this out so I wanna reach out to anyone with this setup for some guidance. I have the 2nd gen gc coilover kit and some AGXs I’ve done the grinding and have the sleeves and springs on, but everything seems too low, I know it’ll settle in under the weight of the car but for the rears the spring can move freely without any support up top and it just doesn’t feel right, and on the front the washer under the top mount seems kinda useless, plus these are at the tallest setting possible which I definitely won’t be running at. I’ve found the “instructions” on an old post but they really don’t help all too much and I haven’t seen a single picture of the finished product so I’m shooting in the dark a bit. Any help is welcome thank you

Rear strut “assembled”

Washer and spacer? Rear

Top washer and spacer rear

“fully assembled” front

Last edited by Hmills27; 04-09-24 at 11:25 PM.
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ATC529R (04-10-24)
Old 04-10-24, 02:33 AM
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I have the same setup you have except I bought the adjustable camber plates for the front.

Changes I had to make:
front rate was too stiff. Had to get a softer spring 7” long.
rear rate was also too stiff for street driving. 8” long in the back were not long enough so I had to order from eibach, a tender spring and adapter. That way there’s always tension on the rear strut.
The stiff springs suggested may be good for track or glass smooth streets, not my case.

This setup requires choosing the correct spring length to achieve the desired height. The adjustable spring perches change height somewhat but also affect preload of the suspension, so I prefer to adjust no more than 1/2” up or down with the perch. Trial and error.
if you request to send your current springs and have them changed for something closer to what you want, they will help. You only pay shipping.
I ended up with 325lbs/inch in front and 200lbs/inch in the rear, the 2.5 inch tender springs for the rear and the adapter between the springs.
I dropped the height by 1” front and rear.
Old 04-10-24, 02:37 AM
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Also note, in the rear, the black poly bushings must be directly in contact with the red plate and you have them upside down.
The bushing has a smaller diameter on one end that fits in the hole in the red plates. The metal washer goes on top of the poly bushing in the upper bushing, and below the bottom poly bushing.
Old 04-10-24, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kenneth_ugalde
I have the same setup you have except I bought the adjustable camber plates for the front.

Changes I had to make:
front rate was too stiff. Had to get a softer spring 7” long.
rear rate was also too stiff for street driving. 8” long in the back were not long enough so I had to order from eibach, a tender spring and adapter. That way there’s always tension on the rear strut.
The stiff springs suggested may be good for track or glass smooth streets, not my case.

This setup requires choosing the correct spring length to achieve the desired height. The adjustable spring perches change height somewhat but also affect preload of the suspension, so I prefer to adjust no more than 1/2” up or down with the perch. Trial and error.
if you request to send your current springs and have them changed for something closer to what you want, they will help. You only pay shipping.
I ended up with 325lbs/inch in front and 200lbs/inch in the rear, the 2.5 inch tender springs for the rear and the adapter between the springs.
I dropped the height by 1” front and rear.
so what’s the point of having adjustable height if the springs need to be changed to fit a certain height anyways? And wouldn’t changing the length completely change my spring rate too? I wanted something a bit stiffer, although it is for street I’m looking for a tighter setup. Would that mean they sent me the wrong springs to begin with cause these are set to the highest setting and still don’t fit tight.
Old 04-11-24, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Hmills27
these are set to the highest setting and still don’t fit tight.
they aren't supposed to. GC does not use a tender spring, so when the shock is fully extended the spring will be loose.
some people don't like that, but in real life its not a thing because the car is sitting on it
Old 04-12-24, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
they aren't supposed to. GC does not use a tender spring, so when the shock is fully extended the spring will be loose.
some people don't like that, but in real life its not a thing because the car is sitting on it

ok nice, just wanted to make sure I wasn’t messing anything up, thank ya
Old 04-12-24, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
they aren't supposed to. GC does not use a tender spring, so when the shock is fully extended the spring will be loose.
some people don't like that, but in real life its not a thing because the car is sitting on it
when driving over uneven surfaces, speed bumps, or any other situation where the suspension unloads, the loose springs will move, the springs will no longer support the vehicle (momentarily) and when the car loads the suspension again, there will be clunking noises.
Like I mentioned before the suspension offered by GC is ok for track use mostly.
Fix the mistakes made when assembling the struts. Drive it around for a while. If you don’t like it, ask me again and I’ll tell you what I did with mine.
Find out what spring rates you have now.
Old 04-12-24, 05:26 AM
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https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/help...he-difference/
Old 04-12-24, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by kenneth_ugalde
Find out what spring rates you have now.
the springs should have a number on them.
the Eibach number has 3 groups of numbers with the rate being the 3rd group, in lbs in. the other two are length and diameter

the GC Eibach number you need to google, but info is out there
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