12 gauge wire from alternator to positive batt. term.fried
 

well i was changing my alternator belt yesterday,and forgot to disconnect the battery(im a dumbass) and once i got the alternator tilted enough to remove the old belt the alternator wire sparked up on a piece of metal. and fried the 12g wire i put from the alt. to the battery a while back. totally fried that bitch in like 1.2 sec. lol.it fried my MAIN fuse (the 80 amp fuse) and then a few hours i replaced it.. but now i try to get my car cranked up and its like it doesnt want to start . i tried the unflooding procedure a couple of times. because it seems that it is flooded.ok so i hooked up a tow rope to a truck and tried to pull start it (usually works) butit started right up andonly got to about 1k with my foot all the way down on the accelerator and stayed there until i let off and it died.
is that case of major floodation LOL or did i fry something else u think ? should i replace the wire that got fried? i dont know im so helpless right now. i hope i typed enough
thanks in advance
jack

Well it started, thats good. There's the possibility the battery was so low that it did not have enough energy to keep the ECU and injectors, and fuel pump running. So it died. Now normally that should not have happen, but I fear that you've stuffed(NZ expression) your alternator. So it was not putting out to recharge the battery like it would normally. So I say fully charge the battery, then pull the car again to see what happens. If it runs, and the alternator light is on, well............only about fifty to a hundred bucks.

Also might inspect the orininal wire from the alternator to the fuse box.

i checked out the wire from the alt to the fuse box its fine... battery is charged ..... i let it sit over night and then tried to start in the morning and it fixed itself. whatz up with that .?
i used to let it sit overnight after flooding and come back the next day and itll start right up.. that was before i got a fuel cutoff switch .

mabe a ground wire?????



-Shawn (it was my problem whem my vert wouldn't want to turn over fast enough to start)

will it start when with a jump?if it has enough juice in the batt. to turn over the motor,it should have enough to run the ecu and stuff...when it ran,was it pretty smokey?if it was flooded,it would have been..

You need to go over your wiring harness and make sure that the fried alternator wire didn't burn through any other wires on the way out.

12 gauge?!? i use that for speakers LOL... get a 4 guage in there.

I have hooked my electric fanj up to the connector thats located on the left front strut-tower. I dont know where it comes from but it git power and it makes the motor run like 3 seconds after i cut the ignition off, it emtyes the injectors and the car havent floooded since:)
Also check that the main fuse is intact, i fried two of them when a bolt came loose from the intake manifold and touched the altenator-output "thingie#
Sorry bout the bad engkish but im pretty stoned/drunk by now

lol i replaced my main fuse... its fine but what should i do about that plug u said that empties the injectors after shutoff??

kim or n e one out there..... can u tell me what u r talking about .... and is there a way to stop the injectors dumping fuel after shutoff? i just cant seem to find my problem out..... i have rebuilt the engine and still the same problem occurs..
jack

You can make an in-car fuel killswitch.
Under the dashboard there is a relay thats hooked up to the fuel-pump, splice a switch into the ground of that.
It also makes out for a anti theft device.
Eventually you should prolly get your injectors cleaned or replaced.
Ill go take a pic of that connector, ill be right back

dude i have had that fuel ct off switch for soo long its not even funny... i hate having to use that thing... even after the rebuild i need to use it...it pisses me off.... but what i dont get is what ur tellin me about this plug and what it does...
thanks
jack

OK im back. Here is a picture.
Just hook the posetive from the fan to the middle connector as shown, and ground the other one

I dont really know what its supposed to do, but what it does is that, of some reason:confused:, it lets my motor run for a few seconds after i have pulled the key out of the ignition-hole, and it runs out of gas, its a simple temporary fix:rolleyes: because i also got fucking tired of the Killswitch.
Merry x-mas and a happy new year to you---From Kim:dunce:

you have a merry xmas and a happy new year too.... one last question though......
what wires from your fan go there? it looks like the wires are coming from the fuse box.... ok im just confused sorry
thanks again
jack

The + wire from the fan goes to the connector as shown in the pic, and the -goes to any ground.
The wires doesnt come out of the fusebox, that wire is my temporary:rolleyes: ground.

another angle:

so you think that fan wire keeps the car running for a couple secs after you turn it off?? LMAO....

PS I hope that is a remote + for the fan and not the power wire itself...

you try it ah

On a 87 RX-7, that plug is J-08, and the wire should be a BR or black/red wire. Its 12v fused to a 30a fuse when the key is IG(on).

Extra points to the fellow who can tell us why KIM's car runs for several seconds after the key is to OFF.

Oh. The plug is for the left hand Auto Adjust Suspension Control System (A.A.S.).

Flux Capacitor discharging?

:crackup:

My car is a sport, i dont think it came with AAS, so why is that plug there:confused:

Every 7 has those Plugs. On both Strut Towers. It Is easier to have the Harness there so that way Mazda could simply plug In the AAS for the models who got them.

I use that Ignition Switched plug for my RPM Switch and the other Tower, I use for my Electric Fan.

Kim......You don't have a factory fan connected to that plug, do you??? So what fan do you have. For the radiator, right? Just that wire and a ground?????? For the fan??