I'm so JDM...
I only sleep on the right side of the bed...
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar002.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar004.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar005.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar001.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar006.jpg Cusco 5-point moly roll bar...overnighted from Japan of course.:) Seriously, after noticing a potentially dangerous situation with the control arm/ball joint assembly on my car I figured the roll bar needed to go in sooner than later. This wasn't my ideal choice (bolt in and rhd configuration) but I found it locally from an FC drifter that works at Togue Factory (don't know if anybody knows them) for a good price. It's cheap insurance and a safety precaution as a 20 year old car. I initially wasn't to keen on the "bolt in" design until I saw the bar in person... the quality and fit is top notch. It's a decent option for street driven cars that see occasional light track duty (mainly an autoX car with a few HPDE's here and there) I'm 6'3" and don't have any head room issues unless I try to lean like a gangster. I'm happy with it as I get to keep my bins, add some chasis rigidity, and a little peace of mind. |
did you get it from dorimon?
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looks really good !!!
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Originally Posted by Derek King
(Post 7444888)
did you get it from dorimon?
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Pics fromt he side with the doors open?
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very nice, I'm deciding to do that too. How much did cost you and what site you got it at?
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Originally Posted by CarzArKoo1
(Post 7445813)
very nice, I'm deciding to do that too. How much did cost you and what site you got it at?
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Originally Posted by Toyo Kogyo
(Post 7445812)
Pics fromt he side with the doors open?
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looks pretty sick
can you tell a difference? |
Originally Posted by R3N5LOW
(Post 7448315)
looks pretty sick
can you tell a difference? |
thats good
well when the weathers good test it out for us and we'll be waiting for the "it was worth it i think you should get one" talk :) |
Originally Posted by R3N5LOW
(Post 7450463)
thats good
well when the weathers good test it out for us and we'll be waiting for the "it was worth it i think you should get one" talk :) |
Originally Posted by heimbo
(Post 7454693)
First drag day with coilovers and the roll bar on Saturday, don't know how much it will help there, but the car feels a lot more stable and more responsive.
how was it |
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the auto power is a totally different beast... I am liking the looks of the cusco!! good job
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did you need to make a hole on the matel when you install the rear strut bar?
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Originally Posted by rx7fc3s87
(Post 7462716)
What did that cost you shipped? |
Originally Posted by kitwo
(Post 7462789)
did you need to make a hole on the matel when you install the rear strut bar?
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Originally Posted by R3N5LOW
(Post 7462494)
sooooooo..
how was it Also weighed it at the track with a half tank of gas, no spare tire, empty bins, no driver = 2770lbs. 2700lbs and 300ft lbs. of torque to the wheels is A LOT of fun.:bigthumb: I may end up selling the cusco and going for a cage with more points. |
I'm always curious why cusco/autopwr design the main hoop to bolt on the floor pan which is just a single piece of flimsy sheet metal if you actually look at it.Just by common sense the best place on the FC3S for the main hoop looks to be on the cross-frame where there is extra boxed metal.That also moves the main hoop so you have full seat travel and decent recline without the bar an inch from your mellon or needing to angle the main bar like the autopwr one to move it back.Must be for convienience of ease to bolt in they build it like that?
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Originally Posted by The Griffin
(Post 7469822)
I'm always curious why cusco/autopwr design the main hoop to bolt on the floor pan which is just a single piece of flimsy sheet metal if you actually look at it.Just by common sense the best place on the FC3S for the main hoop looks to be on the cross-frame where there is extra boxed metal.That also moves the main hoop so you have full seat travel and decent recline without the bar an inch from your mellon or needing to angle the main bar like the autopwr one to move it back.Must be for convienience of ease to bolt in they build it like that?
I'm not going to advocate this as a hardcore safety product, the gains in chasis rigidity make it worth it for what I'm doing and will be doing with the car. |
Originally Posted by The Griffin
(Post 7469822)
I'm always curious why cusco/autopwr design the main hoop to bolt on the floor pan which is just a single piece of flimsy sheet metal if you actually look at it.Just by common sense the best place on the FC3S for the main hoop looks to be on the cross-frame where there is extra boxed metal.That also moves the main hoop so you have full seat travel and decent recline without the bar an inch from your mellon or needing to angle the main bar like the autopwr one to move it back.Must be for convienience of ease to bolt in they build it like that?
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Originally Posted by rx7fc3s87
(Post 7471586)
I would agree with you about the floor pan but at least with my Autopower roll bar it came with a 3/8" thick steel plate to reinforce it. It cost me 450 dollars for the bar and 150 dollars to ship. I will say I'm jealous of the Cusco blue... :bigthumb:
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Originally Posted by heimbo
(Post 7471686)
Did you put your plates on the inside under the main hoop mounts or underneath the car where the bolts came through?
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Originally Posted by rx7fc3s87
(Post 7474931)
I put them underneath the car where the bolts came through. (I primered the plates obviously)
If I keep mine I plan on reinforcing the area above and below the main hoop's mounting plates to prevent it from pushing through the floor. |
Originally Posted by heimbo
(Post 7444352)
I only sleep on the right side of the bed...
Cusco 5-point moly roll bar...overnighted from Japan of course.:) Seriously, after noticing a potentially dangerous situation with the control arm/ball joint assembly on my car I figured the roll bar needed to go in sooner than later. This wasn't my ideal choice (bolt in and rhd configuration) but I found it locally from an FC drifter that works at Togue Factory (don't know if anybody knows them) for a good price. It's cheap insurance and a safety precaution as a 20 year old car. I initially wasn't to keen on the "bolt in" design until I saw the bar in person... the quality and fit is top notch. It's a decent option for street driven cars that see occasional light track duty (mainly an autoX car with a few HPDE's here and there) I'm 6'3" and don't have any head room issues unless I try to lean like a gangster. I'm happy with it as I get to keep my bins, add some chasis rigidity, and a little peace of mind. |
Originally Posted by theflatlander
(Post 7476923)
too bad these aren't legal for track use.
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I'm with Flatlander. First thing I thought was that they aren't going to pass inspection and where will you attach your harnesses??
Looks nice though but in the event of an accident you might end up more injured than protected. The cage, when mated to the Harnesses and helmet keep your body from flying around in case of a rollover. That cage with no harnesses and no helmet = pain (no matter whether it's W2W, solo, rally or drag). The Padding you used will help out a bunch though. |
Originally Posted by phoenix7
(Post 7487291)
I'm with Flatlander. First thing I thought was that they aren't going to pass inspection and where will you attach your harnesses??
Looks nice though but in the event of an accident you might end up more injured than protected. The cage, when mated to the Harnesses and helmet keep your body from flying around in case of a rollover. That cage with no harnesses and no helmet = pain (no matter whether it's W2W, solo, rally or drag). The Padding you used will help out a bunch though. As for harnesses, I would not run harnesses with the stock seats, but once pass through seats are in the car the harnesses should be able to mount to an area behind the bins and still pass the 45 degree rule so the addition of a harness bar is not entirely necessary. Just because a cage/bar is built to spec never means your safety during a wreck, Especially in a 20 year old car. Some may find peace of mind with a spec built cage/bar, but this is built by one of Japan's top safety company's and I find it's quality and strength to be on par with anything else out there. It is definitely not a shiny chrome roll bar built for show. Most of those commenting have not seen this particular bar in person and are basing their info on what they have read or been told by others. Your best bet is always going to be a custom built bar/cage from a chasis shop, but this is a good removable alternative. I still may go the route of a custom bent bar over the winter, but this serves its purpose as to whether or not I could deal with a roll bar whenever I'm doing any normal driving to events or to cruises. Follow up to come later with actual rules if I can get the PDF to work. |
Nice!
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I agree, what's nice about my Autopwer bar is I have the option of welding it in and Autopower also sells full roll cages that continue through the fire wall (Obviously would weld to the main hoop).
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He bought this thing from the other dave.
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i am even more JDM
http://www.yenvalmar.com/temp/IMG_4892.JPG
i'm so JDM my radio doesnt work because all the stations it picks up arent on the american frequency spectrum. also my roll cage is probably even less safe than yours, and its PINK. so i got u beat on style too :) you thought that anodized blue was garish, ha! actually i'm not sure about the safety, its all welded including to the car itself, and the tubing is very thick steel, but theres not much in the way of triangulation.. with that title i was expecting an RHD car in the thread :) fixed it myself tho. |
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar002.jpg
i thought about picking one of those used jdm roll bars off ebay as well, but i think i would have had the hooks cut and rewelded so the support bar would be more ideal for LHD cars, shouldnt be too hard to have done |
i need a cage as well. im looking into the welded set up rather then a bolt on.... or if i get a bolt on id weld it. fuck it.... gimmie some tubes with bends and il make my own :P your ride looks clean as hell and the cusco cage is tight. as for the pink cage i can almost taste it and i taste pepto bismal
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Originally Posted by yenvalmar
(Post 7644532)
http://www.yenvalmar.com/temp/IMG_4892.JPG
i'm so JDM my radio doesnt work because all the stations it picks up arent on the american frequency spectrum. also my roll cage is probably even less safe than yours, and its PINK. so i got u beat on style too :) you thought that anodized blue was garish, ha! actually i'm not sure about the safety, its all welded including to the car itself, and the tubing is very thick steel, but theres not much in the way of triangulation.. with that title i was expecting an RHD car in the thread :) fixed it myself tho. Sorry to disappoint, but I could still disappoint you even more by telling you what power plant is in my car.:) |
Originally Posted by ( ^ ) <-_-> ( ^ )
(Post 7650273)
i need a cage as well. im looking into the welded set up rather then a bolt on.... or if i get a bolt on id weld it. fuck it.... gimmie some tubes with bends and il make my own :P your ride looks clean as hell and the cusco cage is tight. as for the pink cage i can almost taste it and i taste pepto bismal
Check out S&W races cars for your pre-bent tubing. |
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