I'm so JDM...
 

I only sleep on the right side of the bed...
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar002.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar004.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar005.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar001.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar006.jpg

Cusco 5-point moly roll bar...overnighted from Japan of course.:)

Seriously, after noticing a potentially dangerous situation with the control arm/ball joint assembly on my car I figured the roll bar needed to go in sooner than later. This wasn't my ideal choice (bolt in and rhd configuration) but I found it locally from an FC drifter that works at Togue Factory (don't know if anybody knows them) for a good price. It's cheap insurance and a safety precaution as a 20 year old car.

I initially wasn't to keen on the "bolt in" design until I saw the bar in person... the quality and fit is top notch. It's a decent option for street driven cars that see occasional light track duty (mainly an autoX car with a few HPDE's here and there) I'm 6'3" and don't have any head room issues unless I try to lean like a gangster. I'm happy with it as I get to keep my bins, add some chasis rigidity, and a little peace of mind.

did you get it from dorimon?

looks really good !!!

If dorimon = dave re on ClubFr then yes I got it from him.

Pics fromt he side with the doors open?

very nice, I'm deciding to do that too. How much did cost you and what site you got it at?

I bought it used from a local FC owner. I'm not sure what they cost new.

Sorry didn't take any...the main hoop passes right in front of the sunroof motor assembly if you were wondering how far back it goes. The bar is roughly four inches forward of the rearmost edge of the window with the door closed.

looks pretty sick
can you tell a difference?

The weather here has been kind of crappy the past couple days so I haven't been able to do much fun driving, but it did get rid of the mysterious squeaking that was coming from the rear of the car.:icon_tup: I would also like to say a little less wheel hop, but they may have just been from the weather being in the 50's and the tires having less initial bite.

thats good

well when the weathers good test it out for us and we'll be waiting for the
"it was worth it i think you should get one" talk :)

First drag day with coilovers and the roll bar on Saturday, don't know how much it will help there, but the car feels a lot more stable and more responsive.

sooooooo..

how was it

My autopower fits a lot better.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...91_19_full.jpg

the auto power is a totally different beast... I am liking the looks of the cusco!! good job

did you need to make a hole on the matel when you install the rear strut bar?

Looks about the same to me, but I do like how it has the main hoop a little farther back.

What did that cost you shipped?

Yeah, but only a hole on each side because the bar is 3 pieces (2 mounts and the bar threads into them).

12.87 @ 109 on street tires. last time out I had a 12.80 @109 on dead kumho v710's. I can easily tell the chasis is more tied together. Without the roll bar the car felt a different off the line and between shifts. On the street the car feels great.

Also weighed it at the track with a half tank of gas, no spare tire, empty bins, no driver = 2770lbs. 2700lbs and 300ft lbs. of torque to the wheels is A LOT of fun.:bigthumb:

I may end up selling the cusco and going for a cage with more points.

I'm always curious why cusco/autopwr design the main hoop to bolt on the floor pan which is just a single piece of flimsy sheet metal if you actually look at it.Just by common sense the best place on the FC3S for the main hoop looks to be on the cross-frame where there is extra boxed metal.That also moves the main hoop so you have full seat travel and decent recline without the bar an inch from your mellon or needing to angle the main bar like the autopwr one to move it back.Must be for convienience of ease to bolt in they build it like that?

I see your point and agree that the main hoop should be positioned differently and more tied into the frame, but I'm not sure what you are referring to as a "cross-frame." Any roll bar or cage needs to extend to the floor of the car. I may make some additions modifications to the bar's mounting.

I'm not going to advocate this as a hardcore safety product, the gains in chasis rigidity make it worth it for what I'm doing and will be doing with the car.

I would agree with you about the floor pan but at least with my Autopower roll bar it came with a 3/8" thick steel plate to reinforce it. It cost me 450 dollars for the bar and 150 dollars to ship. I will say I'm jealous of the Cusco blue... :bigthumb:

Did you put your plates on the inside under the main hoop mounts or underneath the car where the bolts came through?

I put them underneath the car where the bolts came through. (I primered the plates obviously)

I did the same thing with some plates I already had. However, having the cage push through the floor of the car is much more likely so those plates really won't do anything.

If I keep mine I plan on reinforcing the area above and below the main hoop's mounting plates to prevent it from pushing through the floor.

too bad these aren't legal for track use.

It's not a NHRA cage or a SCCA spec cage, but the car does neither type of racing (at cage speeds or W2W) It passed tech without any incident at the local drag strip.

I'm with Flatlander. First thing I thought was that they aren't going to pass inspection and where will you attach your harnesses??

Looks nice though but in the event of an accident you might end up more injured than protected. The cage, when mated to the Harnesses and helmet keep your body from flying around in case of a rollover. That cage with no harnesses and no helmet = pain (no matter whether it's W2W, solo, rally or drag). The Padding you used will help out a bunch though.

First it is not a "cage" its a roll bar, which has different specs and requirements than a full cage. Some bolt-in cages are legal for SCCA solo II and time trials. Once the PDF for the rules are back online I'll see if this one meets spec, but I will not be drilling holes to confirm wall thicknesses. Many convertibles use bolt-in roll bar and pass tech, and Autopower claims that some of their bolt in products are legal for SCCA use.

As for harnesses, I would not run harnesses with the stock seats, but once pass through seats are in the car the harnesses should be able to mount to an area behind the bins and still pass the 45 degree rule so the addition of a harness bar is not entirely necessary.

Just because a cage/bar is built to spec never means your safety during a wreck, Especially in a 20 year old car. Some may find peace of mind with a spec built cage/bar, but this is built by one of Japan's top safety company's and I find it's quality and strength to be on par with anything else out there. It is definitely not a shiny chrome roll bar built for show. Most of those commenting have not seen this particular bar in person and are basing their info on what they have read or been told by others.

Your best bet is always going to be a custom built bar/cage from a chasis shop, but this is a good removable alternative. I still may go the route of a custom bent bar over the winter, but this serves its purpose as to whether or not I could deal with a roll bar whenever I'm doing any normal driving to events or to cruises.

Follow up to come later with actual rules if I can get the PDF to work.

Nice!

I agree, what's nice about my Autopwer bar is I have the option of welding it in and Autopower also sells full roll cages that continue through the fire wall (Obviously would weld to the main hoop).

He bought this thing from the other dave.

i am even more JDM
 

http://www.yenvalmar.com/temp/IMG_4892.JPG

i'm so JDM my radio doesnt work because all the stations it picks up arent on the american frequency spectrum.

also my roll cage is probably even less safe than yours, and its PINK. so i got u beat on style too :) you thought that anodized blue was garish, ha!

actually i'm not sure about the safety, its all welded including to the car itself, and the tubing is very thick steel, but theres not much in the way of triangulation..

with that title i was expecting an RHD car in the thread :) fixed it myself tho.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...rollbar002.jpg

i thought about picking one of those used jdm roll bars off ebay as well, but i think i would have had the hooks cut and rewelded so the support bar would be more ideal for LHD cars, shouldnt be too hard to have done

i need a cage as well. im looking into the welded set up rather then a bolt on.... or if i get a bolt on id weld it. fuck it.... gimmie some tubes with bends and il make my own :P your ride looks clean as hell and the cusco cage is tight. as for the pink cage i can almost taste it and i taste pepto bismal

haha, very nice, your car is all Godzirras and shit.

Sorry to disappoint, but I could still disappoint you even more by telling you what power plant is in my car.:)

I actually sold the roll bar, but I wanted to do some of the modifications you mentioned if I was going to keep it.

Check out S&W races cars for your pre-bent tubing.