Battery Relocation Pics
 

post any pics of your battery relocation...considering putting mine in the back where the spare tire use to be...

I am busy doin that. Friend of mine made an alloy bar that can be fixed on those 6 holes on the bottom but do not have it yet.

Here pics i got so far, also folow my project topic



Here the fusebox were i connect the stock wires.

http://www.roostercommissie.com/Gall...2/PC080048.JPG



And this is were it will be with another fuse holder. Dont watch the relay, its for the fuel pump rewire

http://www.roostercommissie.com/Gall...2/PA210004.JPG




I am considering turning the batterie around tough and will be replace with somekind of gell battery later on

personally when I did mine I relocated everything. I didnt want to see a single wire in the engine bay.

Glad I did it but fucker or a job.

If you just going to put the battery in the boot and leave the main fuse box where it is, its a piss easy job (prob only take a few hours)

If you move everything it will take a week. (but looks great)

mine was not for the faint of heart... due to you having to remove the windshield wiper motor.. but i live in socal, and it barely rains :)

custom battery tray made by guitarjunkie (dave), oddessey battery, and a custom carbon fiber divider made by guitarjunkie (dave) as well

Attachment 716063

Attachment 716064

i like this...i have tons of questions on this did you keep the stock fuse box or did you get an after market one and move it to the back what exactly did you do....wait sorry what exactly did your friend do? lol

man thats clean...(R.I.P dave...he was a great guy) i want to move mine either in the back where the spare tire would go or cut out the passenger rear seat and mount it in there and have it look like the back seats are still in but thats clean...and im in socal as well so i know what you mean about hardly raining

thats what im considering doing...but why did it take a week...and did you lengthen the wires? what exactly did you do...i want to start on mine this week but i need to know what do im not sure if i want to do the regular put in the cargo bin location

you have to lengthen and redirect almost every wire.

the battery and the new batery wiring is the easy part.

Have a read of this thread.
http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=31504

Also if you read my build thread on about page 12 it goes into what I had to do to get it going.
(in my signature)

I would recommend getting another loom, hacking that up and then trying to swap it all over. depending on how much time you have it took about a month for me to do the CDI, HALTECH, wireless engine bay, electric water pumps, all new relay mod's to windows and sun roof. etc

-Anth

ok thanks im going to check it out

Well the only thing i have done so far was running the wires.

The stock wires going to the battery will be connected to the fusebox (next to the ign amplifier). The new 2AWG wire will be connected to the other end of the fusebox.

That wire runs along the left side of the car to the battery in the back with that second black fusebox.

That friend of mine, or actualy his dad, only made an alloy bar that fits on the bottom of that spare tire compartment.


The stock fusebox is still in the same place. Because i connect the stock + wires directly to the aftermarket fusebox you can see it as lengthening the stock wire.


@havoc,

That is somethin i might do when i will clean the whole engine bay and the engine is out :)

this was version 1 of what I was trying to do (the PDF)

I did it with the block in, but was a prick. if I still had the engine wiring and not a after market ecu... it would be killer.



http://www.ausrotary.com/download/file.php?id=395

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/4006/p7230069sy2.jpg

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/6715/p7250081sv1.jpg

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/9631/p7250079mh5.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5945/p8060215if4.jpg

http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/6863/p8060212kl1.jpg

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/245...9384460qc2.jpg


http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/722...9395426gc7.jpg (not secured)

http://www.ausrotary.com/download/file.php?id=3571

oh and engine bay once done

http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/1996/dscn4011e.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

As interesting as Havoc's pics are (and as nice as the end result turned out), I don't see what they have to do with relocating the battery, which is really quite simple in theory, if not in practice.
If the point is simply to move the battery, very little of the stock wiring needs to be touched (assuming of course that the stock harnesses are in good condition).
Once the battery is in it's new home (be it the passenger bin- very common- or the spare tire well) all it needs it a good chassis ground and a suitable gauge cable run into the engine bay.
Also, you'll want a circuit breaker in the positive cable as near to the battery as possible.
And that's it.

I spent a day relocating mine and it didn't require dash removal or major harness reworking at all.

That engine bay looks awefull nice. And i like blue!

I made a battery box and put the battery in the storage bin area behind the passenger seat.

http://www.aaroncake.net/misc/rebuil...%20Mounted.jpg

http://www.aaroncake.net/misc/rebuil...rage%20Bin.jpg

http://www.aaroncake.net/misc/rebuil...0Installed.jpg

http://www.aaroncake.net/misc/rebuil...20Strapped.jpg

Personally, I've never been a big fan of downgrading the battery to a small space/weight saving unit. They have less than half the AH capacity of a proper battery, which could be a real problem if you have to run the exterior lighting for an hour with the car turned off. Or the engine floods.

Breakers and fuse panels, unless they are sealed units, should not be mounted in the engine bay. And the breaker needs to as physically close to the battery as possible in order to provide the protection it is designed to provide.

^^^whats with the random tiny wire with the fuse? it starts at the battery, and goes on the breaker.........point of that wire being?

and i basically did the same thing as you did aaron, but i did use a small racing battery, i never had a problem in my DD with it, but my engine never flooded and i never ran lights without the car being on, just habit.

Lloyd

wow thats a lot of work...smh :) but the results of it is very nice...not sure if im going to do all that however i might relocate some other things besides my battery but i like what you did with your battery and wiring very clean and that engine bay is very nice...hats off to you

nice...im probably going to run mine behind my rear seats...but im not sure if im going to keep the rear seats in...however where did you get the wiring from and that little black box in front of the battery, what is that and where did you get it? im trying to get all the information i can so when i do it im not missing anything...and that is a clean battery box..i like it i might pick one up from pepboys or something

i personally ran all 0awg stereo battery wire (monster is the brand, i got a good deal on the wiring), but you can get normal battery wiring from most parts stores in $x per foot. and that battery box he made, not picked up from hack boys. please stay away from there. there is tons of websites and such that sell kits.

Lloyd

How are all you guys relocating the flow of air to your battery?

What?
Why is this a concern?

gasses that come out while charging.

Gell battery is the solution.

Havoc, why didnt you just tuck the harness in the frame or something rather than ripping your entire dash and harness out to extend every wire? VW guys do it all the time and it turns out great!
http://www.dub-nation.com/show/water...erfest_596.jpg


Anyways, when I did it I ran welding cable to a breaker box, and has the stock wiring go to the breaker as well. very simple, took me an hour and havent had any problems.

Just buy a battery that is designed to be mounted inside the cabin. Many cars are coming with batteries inside now, and all of them have hose barbs for venting built in. You can get them in a variety of sizes too.

What about great voltage but shit for amps (MAJOR voltage drop) when the starter kicks? What's that contributed to, with a relocated battery?