Its all about your alignment settings and tire choice when fitting new suspension and wheels. If you run close to factory recommended 0.0* front camber with 17x8 +35 and about a 225 tire you will be pretty close to "factory-flush" with no need to roll fenders or modify anything. If you run a bit of negative camber (-1.0* to -2.0*) you will probably want a lower offset wheel (like maybe +10 to +20) with a 17x8 and 225 tire. People are going to say "But you can fit huge wheels in there and slam it and stance it out etc", but being an alignment technician I hate the thought of stanced cars with massive wheels that scrape the ground and bounce around town like they're on pogo stick suspension.
For the original setup you posted, front should be OK, but in the rear I would go a bit lower on offset to match the front with the setup you posted. You may want to invest in some camber adjusting links to fine tune your rear alignment to perfect the look of the new wheels. Most FCs have -1.5* to -2.0* camber in the rear. Preferred is somewhere closer to -0.5*. Toe is adjustable from factory, but chances are the cam bolts are seized in the lateral arm bushings, so you will probably want to get adjustable toe links as well.
FYI
ALWAYS do an alignment after any suspension or steering repair. The smallest differences in any part can make huge difference in how your car drives and looks. Remember you can rotate the strut tops to change camber and caster by about 0.5* either way.
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