How To Tell If You Have A Real 10th Anniversary Edition 10AE Rx7 FC3S Turbo II Rotary
 

I recently purchased a 10ae rx7 and wanted to share my experience and a little bit of information I obtained along the way.

There is only one way you can tell if the rx7 you are looking to purchase is a real 10th anniversary edition rx7. The UC paint code located on the aluminum plate on the firewall to the left of the Vin number stamped into the firewall. This tin plate has the model paint code and Vin number on it.

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The vin numbers do not have the ability to distinguish the difference between the 1988 Turbo II and a 10ae Turbo II. Both of these will show JM1FC followed by 332. The 332 means it is a Turbo chassis, all non Turbo chassis read 331. The following stamp is plant code and the next is the date. The final numbers are the production number. So both of these cars will have the same Vin. 332, J stamp for 1988.

So if someone has a 1988 Turbo II and put the things like bronze glass, steering g wheel, black interior, white trim and tails and the badges on the fenders it would be a 10ae if you didn't know about the paint code difference.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b74a0fe78c.jpg

I found a real one sifting through market place, classified groups and enthusiast groups. It was not easy and many dishonest ads made it daunting. I'm sure some of you saw the Joe Maddox vs Matt Montgomery posts on Facebook. There are literally dozens of scammers on Instagram and its sketchy buying off craigslist out of stste. So I hope this Information is helpful when you go looking!

+1 there are lots of ways to tell, but it is the only UC color FC made in the year of J....