Does my fc need to be rebuilt?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Does my fc need to be rebuilt?
so I just took my 87 GXL to mazda because it has a problem starting at warm temps (specifically when I let it sit for 30 minutes after running it for a good amount of time). They say that I need new apex seals when one of my buddies said it was a temp sensor. which one is right? I really need help because I need the car
it runs perfectly fine when started. and when it refuses to start it cranks and I have to pump the gas to start it.
it runs perfectly fine when started. and when it refuses to start it cranks and I have to pump the gas to start it.
Last edited by Paulc19; 01-03-19 at 08:12 AM.
#3
REINCARNATED
iTrader: (4)
Could be something as simple as injectors bleeding into engine after turning off and causing a flooded situation. Perform a compression check and if it looks good have your injectors rebuilt.
Good luck!
-M
Good luck!
-M
#4
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
To troubleshoot this remotely sight unseen, we're going to need more details.... So you say it runs fine once started, and the no start issue only occurs when the engine has sat for about 30 minutes after running at operating temperature. When you say "runs fine" does that mean performance under load is good from idle up to redline - i.e., you hit the go pedal and she moves off without hesitation? What about cold starts? Does the engine fire right up if it was overnight cold, or say at least several hours after it was last run?
Do you know how many miles are on the motor? I wouldn't trust a word the Mazda dealer told you if they said "needs apex seals/replace engine" without first doing a compression test and showing you results.
Do you know how many miles are on the motor? I wouldn't trust a word the Mazda dealer told you if they said "needs apex seals/replace engine" without first doing a compression test and showing you results.
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
So I did a poor mans compression Compression test and it sounded fine (the rhythmic sst, sst, sst, sst) So as of right now it dossn't sound like compression. My car has 112k miles, doing a thorough test on Sunday.
#6
Rotary Freak
The best thing to do would be to test as per this guide: Link to Racing Beat
One thing that isn't mentioned is you should pull your EGI fuse, so your injectors don't fire (to avoid flooding). Make sure to perform the test warm. Report back with some results, and it's easier to go from there.
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
To troubleshoot this remotely sight unseen, we're going to need more details.... So you say it runs fine once started, and the no start issue only occurs when the engine has sat for about 30 minutes after running at operating temperature. When you say "runs fine" does that mean performance under load is good from idle up to redline - i.e., you hit the go pedal and she moves off without hesitation? What about cold starts? Does the engine fire right up if it was overnight cold, or say at least several hours after it was last run?
Do you know how many miles are on the motor? I wouldn't trust a word the Mazda dealer told you if they said "needs apex seals/replace engine" without first doing a compression test and showing you results.
Do you know how many miles are on the motor? I wouldn't trust a word the Mazda dealer told you if they said "needs apex seals/replace engine" without first doing a compression test and showing you results.
Last edited by Paulc19; 01-06-19 at 10:29 AM.
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#8
Information Regurgitator
The after sitting 30 min part makes me think injectors as well. Don't know about the S4 but on the S5 if you floor the accelerator while cranking it disables the fuel injectors. I had to start my car this way if it sat for a while but was still warm. After I got the injectors cleaned it went away. You could try this to diagnose it. https://www.mazdatrix.com/c-bleed.htm
#9
Full Member
Thread Starter
The after sitting 30 min part makes me think injectors as well. Don't know about the S4 but on the S5 if you floor the accelerator while cranking it disables the fuel injectors. I had to start my car this way if it sat for a while but was still warm. After I got the injectors cleaned it went away. You could try this to diagnose it. https://www.mazdatrix.com/c-bleed.htm
#10
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
So one of my friends who is helping me suggested this as well because I would take the fuse for the injectors out and crank it a couple of times and put it back in and it would run. Compression test came back as an 8 or 120 psi. we even replaced the starter to see if it was the calanoid but it didn't change anything.
While you're at it, you probably should replace the fuel filter, and replace all the old vacuum hoses with silicone hoses, and replace all the old fuel lines with new EFI fuel line hose.
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
^Given this comment and prior comments on how the engine runs, most likely its flooding due to leaky injectors. Doing a compression test won't hurt, but poor compression is not your problem now. Pull the injectors and ship them out for the full cleaning/flush/flow test service or buy brand new OEM injectors and pop them back in. I've had good results using these guys for injector servicing: https://injector-rehab.com/shop/home.php
While you're at it, you probably should replace the fuel filter, and replace all the old vacuum hoses with silicone hoses, and replace all the old fuel lines with new EFI fuel line hose.
While you're at it, you probably should replace the fuel filter, and replace all the old vacuum hoses with silicone hoses, and replace all the old fuel lines with new EFI fuel line hose.
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