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Broken FC after omp delete (need help!)
After removing the omp (but leaving it plugged in) and injectors and plugging the holes. I added the premix to the tank, probably 1gal:1.5oz just to be safe. In the process of putting everything back together I broke the intake thermoster but I read on here that it would still run fine. I went to start the car and it ran terribly and couldn't hold an idle. I checked the codes and :
20: omp positioning sensor 8 : air flow meter 1: trailing coil 11: intake thermoster 17: feedback (probably related to 11) 12 & 18: throttle sensor full and narrow after tinkering and starting again, the car sounded like it was in 2 step(not the dance) or launch control (stuttering) and still not idling. This time with codes 8, 1, 11, 40(solinoid valve) I'm really stuck and I have to get this car moving to make an appointment to get some new frame rails in her. I appreciate any comments, thanks! |
Codes 8,11,17,12, and 18 may all be related due to a shared feedback wire. Code 20 may be due to an unplugged or damaged wire, or coincidentally a bad OMP either from handling it or it’s just gone bad. Code 1 is where your running problem probably lies. Check for spark on trailing. Make sure you put the plug wires back on the right rotors and T and L are not mixed. Check your spark plugs, I have seen bad plugs cause coil codes on series 5. Although... you may have accidentally damaged your ECU. If an OMP goes bad it usually takes out part of the ECU. |
Thank you for that perfectly helpful answer! although bad news. But hopefully it's an easy fix and not the ecu
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I would personally never remove the OMP. There's really no need unless its a dedicated race car. You can leave the OMP in place and premix 1/2 oz of oil per gallon of gas and still be good to go with added protection.
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