Who makes an adaptor plate for a t56? And which T56?
 

I need one and need to decide on which clutch and flywheel to buy...

Which T56? Didnt know if it mattered..

well the common uses of the t56 are in the gm vehicles( corvette, camaroo, firebird, gto etc); the mustang cobra, and of course the dodge viper. The differences are the torque ratings, and gear ratios. The viper tranny being able to handle the most torque. its uses a hydraulic clutch, except for the Cobra which is mechanical and hadsan 11 inch clutch disk. The entire case, including the bell housing, is made of aluminum. The synchromesh is made up of brass synchros for the GM and Ford applications, and stainless steel in the Dodge application.

the gm model handles 450ft/lb, where as the viper handles 600ft/lb.

So would you go with the 04+ GTO or the Viper? If so, what year range viper?

depends and what your budget is, the viper will be more expensive. Id personally go with the viper, any year from 92-2007 has the same tranny, but try to get one from an 03-07, those are from the genIII viper. if you want to go better than that, then you can go with the tr6060 the updated verison or new t56, these are in the new vettes and new viper 08+.

Call Paul at Liberty Transmissions. He has adapter plates for the T56/FD. He also has the transmissions. Make sure you talk with Paul (last name has few vowels and ends in -ski).

i am a couple of weeks away from offering a T56/FD package. the adapter is complete and i will have something very trick for the FW clutch package along w a DS and drivetrain items.

sorry, but no more details until the setup is ready for roll out. this will happen and the engineering will be first class but will not be crazy priced.

the T56 is a great trans for the FD.

That's great to know because when I turbo my 20b in the future, I know gonna need to do a conversion as well.

Found an adaptor plate...still need clutch/flywheel.

what about this? anything cheaper out there?

http://www.lmperformance.com/18707/43.html

i need one so i can get my motor balanced

I have the Triple disk version of that clutch.. seems to like all the abuse i give it :) but not very streetable.

Cannot wait to see what FW clutch combo you have came up with...
Right now my only options are...
Spec clutch twin or triple suck ass on the street
Tilton ceramic single, twin ,triple suck ass on the street
The best option so far for street and race but the most $$$
Triple carbon carbon tilton clutch at 4100.00 a pop...

So yea will be nice to see what you have in terms of the clutch setup.....

Any updates? I am highly interested in this...I know it will require some modification in my case being an RX-8 and all but if at least 80% of the work is done for me ahead of time it would be great.

Let us know.

Chris

I called Spec and they priced the clutch out at $1599 plus shipping. It is just a dual plate Rx7 clutch with the plate for a t56.

Any cheaper options out there? That is kinda pricey for a dual plate clutch.

I'd love to see the outcome. I've gone through 2-trannys now, and I'm debating on JDM, Supra, or T-56 tranny . . .

:-) neil

Looking forward to Howard's kit.

thewird

For a single plate thats pricey. Exedy twin's are close to 2K.......so that seems like a pretty good price for a twin plate IMO.

Is Howard kit gonna require a rebuild of our motors? He said he's gonna incorporate the rear auto end plate and auto bell housing right?

I wanna do this really bad as well. I know Howard's kit will be very thought out....

bump to key howard on his toes... very interested as well. :icon_tup:

if any you guys are interesting on mounting a t56 to their FD i can set you up with a package too.

Bewtew: Please PM me T-56 package information... maybe a summer project.

Yeah Pm me too. It's going in an RX-8 but I will worry about the shifter location.

Thanks.

Chris

ill pm you later on tonight when i get home so i can send you some pictures as well.

we're building a rx8 3 rotor and it's going to have a t56 in there. i'll send u some info too

me too bew..

I am also interested in a T56 setup, will it work with a exedy twin plate clutch?

Do you guys know of a clutch that is street-able with the T56? It's a sunday driver, and occasionally I'll be driving a few hours to shows.

Tranny
 

Looking forward to Howard's kit. :icon_tup:

How much does a T-56 conversion cost anyway?

What is included in the kit?

bewtew,

I PM'ed you before, but for the life of me, I can't find it. Can you please post or PM the pricing for the machined adapter plate and the cost of the machining on the bell housing?

I'm also interested in your impression of your flywheel/clutch setup. The flywheel is an unorthodox unit, right?

That's all I need. The transmission brace, driveshaft, and torque arm are going to have to be taken care of on my end due to the geometry of my setup.

Thanks.
ryan

I'm sending you a PM..

As for the ones that want a bolt on kit i'm working on it but please be patient.. i want to make sure that everything works as far as the back up lights, speedometer and such

My project is slowly but finally underway...I will anxiously wait to see what you come up with.

:icon_tup:

Chris

Interested in bolt on T56 also.. any updates?

Anymore updates on this???? Especially from Howard and Carlos.

any updates?

Any update? I'm also interestedin a t56 bolt on

http://www.chipsmotorsports.com/prod...ansmission-kit

this is an nice kit.
im saving for a kit aswell.

what follows is just a copy from an earlier thread. it does have pictures which might be of help to some. if you read the post you will note that it was not my intention to offer a "kit." i may have posted something to the contrary but i do offer the adapter plate and all of the other parts can be easily sourced using the links in my post.

i am not aggressively trying to sell the adapters but if someone wants one i can supply the plate.

finally, i just want to express my satisfaction w the T56 setup. it has been a couple of years and from the getgo the trans was and is invisable in my FD.

howard


http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5307/006me.jpg

let me start w the caution that while the rotary is simple the $s start adding up as you add more air and fuel.

my transmission solution is not inexpensive but it is stout, and provides significant gearing advantages. while i will offer for sale the adapter plate, the other items will need to be acquired independently and there is a modest amount of machine shop time.

so why go through all the effort and expense?

the FD arrived on the showroom floor producing 184 SAE foot pounds of torque.

500 SAE rwhp FDs produce 400 foot pounds and lots of stripped 3rd gear teeth and twisted mainshafts. if you really crank up the boost and are drag racing you will be replacing trans as often as changing your oil.

then there's the gearing

yikes!

a 3.483 first gear? great for pulling stumps. not great for doing anything but getting into second. and second? what's w a 42% drop in revs?, third a 31% drop and then the really long drop to 5th which is pretty much an economy run gear.

plainly stated the gearing sucks.

practical alternative trans options do not abound. there are all the racing trans options but they do not have syncros and after living w that type of box in my real racecar for 6 seasons, trust me, you don't want to be anywhere near one for the street. they are also really expensive. and you will eat up interior pieces and get to know the nice people at the trans shop far too well.

there is the fairly high dollar Toyota box. Getrag. nice gear spacing, nice syncros, stout but generally available around 4K++ just for the box.

i zeroed in on the Tremec T56. modern engineering, available at a junk yard near you for between $800-$2000. (there is the totally redone new T56 called the Magnum which sells new for less than 3K which is a bargain).

the T56 is often found in F body Camaros and later in the GTO. lots around. the Camaro has better ratios and the GTO has better syncros. i have a 99 F body Camaro trans that i am purposely installing to see how the syncros actually work at 8000. and for the ratios.

i am indebted to Jered Olson (IronMdnx) for alot of the engineering on the project. the T56 is just a touch too wide to clear the starter so he figured by using the auto bell housing the starter would point forward and clear the trans. one smart solution from a very very smart guy. WTG Jered.

so i had the benefit of his initial install which he kindly shared.

so here's how i did mine...

auto rear iron. necessary (i think) to mount the starter.. maybe you could do some mod work on the standard rear iron if you were creative.

auto rear bellhousing. machine .25 of an inch off the rear face to move the input shaft further into the stock pilot bearing. machine a small opening on the driver's side for the 2 dash 3 hydraulic clutch actuating lines.


bolt on my adapter plate ($375)

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/4335/007if.jpg

find an auto trans flex plate for your flywheel (and an auto starter).

call QuarterMaster. talk w Geoff Tickes (847-540-8999 ext 250) tell him Howard suggested you call.

you will need a button flywheel(less than $200), the 8.5 double disc(less than $900) , a driveshaft (around $3-400) and a small button to flywheel adapter and the Tri Lite clutch release bearing (around $300). i am uncertain on exact pricing. that's between you and QM, i am just trying to be of help.

here's the clutch release bearing. custom setup for proper clearance w the pressure plate. adapter plate is drilled/tapped for it...

http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/637/002kjr.jpg

the clutch is neat. clutch spring pressure is your call between 1800 pounds and 3000. it depends on your app. i don't drag race but needed a clutch to hold 600 rw so i am running, initially 2250 spring pressure which is the same as my wonderful Exedy cerametallic that wouldn't work in this app. unlike the racing apps my clutch has thicker friction material... the "rally" option. the clutch has 18% more frictional surface than my old Exedy. more surface, less spring pressure. win win.

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/6894/018bd.jpg


auto flywheel counterweight 4.02 pounds
auto flywheel 4.8 pounds

ACT lightweight FW 9 pounds plus CW = 13.02

QM pressure plate w button 18.8 pounds.
Exedy single cerametallic 27.6 pounds

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/1571/014cn.jpg

you will need to buy a short clutch master cylinder. .75 piston. Willwood, Tilton AP take your pick. about $100.

whether you use an F body or GTO box you will need to get the GTO linkage assembly. it situates the shifter rearward 2.5 inches and locates it exactly in the center of the Mazda rectangular shifter hole.



you will need a rear trans mount. i spent some time on this as i didn't like anything i saw. i wanted nothing sticking down underneath my car. so all trans mounts that bolted across the tunnel were out. secondly i wanted no interference w my exhaust. i ended up w a very short (9 inches or so) mount that sits high under the tailshaft. it angles higher on the pass side to clear the exhaust. i will have a 4 inch by 4 inch stainless steel plate on the interior of my car which will be the sandwhich plate. i could have ripped out the carpet and mounted it under the carpet but that was too much work for me. i have no problem w a tidy stainless plate in the car. you may feel otherwise. feel free to have at it.

the FD driveshaft has always been a source of irritation. no option to replace worn U joints? are you kidding me? the new (aluminum) driveshaft has replaceable joints and is good for 1000 hp. it weighs 12.6 pounds V 15.

rebuildable...

http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/1425/019fi.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4797/022xf.jpg

then there is the PPF and what to do. i am extremely happy w my solution. after looking at all kinds of torque arms etc i decided i wanted none of them. bulky, heavy and stressing things i didn't want further stressed... trans tailshaft and trans mount. i called Justin Samberg and he had exactly what i wanted. he delivered his usual masterpiece on time and on quote. around $500. it solved all my problems and installed in 30 minutes. i also hear from the FDV8 guys that the Samberg subframe hooks up (launch not love) significantly better than the torque arm options. PPF weighs 4 pounds more than the Samberg subframe.

http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/6...subframe03.jpg

that's pretty much it from a hardware aspect. i just have to reassemble my motor and bolt everything in.

one of the more challenging items was the adapter plate. the quick summary is that it took almost 2 months and a grand to get it exactly right. it is so centered that the input shaft has about a thou clearance to the FD bearing and you can turn the crank without turning the input shaft. this will all make contact once up and running of course but it is dead nuts. to promote deeper penetration of the input shaft into the pilot bearing the adapter plate is 3/8.

you will want to grind a couple of tabs off the trans. (you can see this in the pics.)

a Dakota Digital convertor box will zero in the speedo. ($75)


back to gearing:

let's assume we shift at 7800:

we reach

............................................FD.... .......................T56 F body

second gear at..................4512.......................... 5219

third gear..........................5384................ ...........5696

fourth gear.........................5607................. ........6000

fifth gear.............................5608............. .............5772

who do you think wins the race?

FWIW, i have designed my ports so i make 400 SAE rwhp at 5500. the rotary makes great power up top but if when you shift you could be driving a Yugo you have a problem. the F Body T56, with it's closer ratios helps the rotary given it's narrower torque band.

horsepower under the curve wins races. the T56 gearing puts the curve better into the narrow powerband of the rotary.

finally, that's how i did it. feel free to do it differently, maybe better.:)



that's it for now. road reports when we actually get it going soon.

howard

To add to this thread please ping me if you are interested in the new Magnum T56's which are the latest 6speeds out for a reasonable price.

It is essentially like the new TR6060 Tremec transmission and has been available since 2011 as this custom configuration. Similar to the one which is found in the 2010+ Camaro; however it doesn't have a remote shifter as it was designed as a replacement for the Fbody Camaro unit. It also uses a new front bearing plate as a removable bellhousing can be used (factory TR6060 5th gen Camaro has a fixed bellhousing/bearing plate as 1 unit). The rear tailhousing is also different so the shifter stays in the stock Fbody location ('92-02) and eliminates the Camaro TR6060 3 bolt flange at the tailshaft where the dshaft would attach. This trans is approx 1.9" longer than an Fbody/GTO; however there are shifter options to put it where you need it. In LS conversions on the FC and FD that extra 1.9" back helps as the T56 shifter location makes you punch the center of the dash by the stereo in 1st/3rd/5th.

It is miles better than an FBody/GTO trans in terms of strength and is smoother shifting, eliminates the key system, has the same gear ratios as the Fbody T56 (2.66 1st and same 2nd-4th) however it has a closer .80 5th and .63 6th ratio to keep you in the powerband when shifting from 4th-5th. The gear faces themselves are also wider and of a better quality steel, the shafts are a better material and the mainshaft/output shaft is 31 spline vs. 27 spline. A factory T56 has many shortcomings from the factory as better parts were developed over time which can be added during a rebuild.... but even after doing so the new Magnum T56 is leaps and bounds stronger and also offers smoother shifting.

The stock T56 seems to have a limit of around 600rwhp. The Magnum T56 (TR6060) is closer to 900rwhp. They rate it for less as that as it would be in a 3800lb+ car launching on slicks with no failures.

How the TREMEC® T-56 MAGNUM 6-Speed is improved.
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Techn...s_improved.htm

That link above is not me; however it is a good read... if you are interested in one please email me. Can ship worldwide. I'm not on here consistently and can answer other questions as well regarding T56's and TR6060's: gnx7@hotmail.com

If it tells you anything... I'm removing a built T56 from my LS7 powered FD to install a new Magnum. For the closer 5th gear ratio, increased strength, and smoother shifting. The trans also features an internal pump that can be tapped for an oil cooler bung. The old T56 unit has no internal pump and under very high power the oil would migrate to the rear of the transmission allowing for excessive heat buildup in the front section (under drag racing/highway pulls) where oil is lacking in the proper quantity. The new TR6060 design sprays up front on the gears where they need the cooling/buffer.