Studding 20b?
 

has anyone studded their 20b's? I know factory 20b dowel is designed for "floating" front housing, but studding the block will essentially eliminate that. I like the idea of rigid block, but hate going against the original Mazda design philosophy for 20b of "loose" front housing. Not sure if it'll adversely affect longevity of the engine or whether Mazda did it to cut cost of assembly down. Application is for street. Reliability is main concern but I also want to maximize power potential since 700whp was getting pretty boring. Thanks in advance.

I don't think that was an original design by Mazda, I think it was a re-engineer and thus the recall on all the early 20Bs for a new eccentric shaft design (and I am assuming the tapered dowel pins).

Worst case scenario studding the 20B wears your bearings out prematurely or seizes a stationary gear bearing if you didn't give it generous "race" clearance. You still have the floating eccentric shaft design helping out even in you stud the block more rigid.

Im on the same boat as for the moment figuring out what way to go.
If you put with your engine through alot of heat cycling you want to keep that float in the front section because of the unaccurate factory linebore.
I am piecing a kit together now where i use the13b studs where i can on the back half of the motor and using stepped down dowels on the front section.

Any updates on this floating front rotor housing / taper pins situation?

Which way did you go?

I would like to know before I get my 20b dowel pinned / Studded.

Thank you.