Matt's NA 20B PP build
#1
Matt's NA 20B PP build
Hello All,
I have recently purchased (for a pretty good deal) a Racing Beat built P-Port 20B. I'm pretty sure I'll be putting in an Rx-8 but I am going to get it running on the ground before I buy the chassis I'll be putting it into to. Right now my plan is design and build everything myself for the fun of doing it. This is will be a long project, but I should make slow constant progress in the design and testing of parts. I plan to build a test stand for the engine soon so that I can start assembling parts for it.
Current Engine Specs:
Racing Beat peripheral port housings
Lightweight FD rotors
Ceramic apex seals
Racing beat water jacket mod
Balanced rotating assembly
Parts Plan:
MFR drysump
Adaptronic M6000 ECU
Custom Slide throttle
*potential* Variable length Air horns
5.5" flywheel & clutch
EWP setup
Should be FUN!
Pics:
I have recently purchased (for a pretty good deal) a Racing Beat built P-Port 20B. I'm pretty sure I'll be putting in an Rx-8 but I am going to get it running on the ground before I buy the chassis I'll be putting it into to. Right now my plan is design and build everything myself for the fun of doing it. This is will be a long project, but I should make slow constant progress in the design and testing of parts. I plan to build a test stand for the engine soon so that I can start assembling parts for it.
Current Engine Specs:
Racing Beat peripheral port housings
Lightweight FD rotors
Ceramic apex seals
Racing beat water jacket mod
Balanced rotating assembly
Parts Plan:
MFR drysump
Adaptronic M6000 ECU
Custom Slide throttle
*potential* Variable length Air horns
5.5" flywheel & clutch
EWP setup
Should be FUN!
Pics:
Last edited by highnitro12187; 05-28-17 at 12:30 AM.
#2
Great to see another build underway. I take it you got this direct from Racing Beat?
I'm suprised to see that they PP'ed a long crank 20b, seems almost a wasy of a thick center plate. Also I see you have an fd Front cover on it. I take it you intend on running the fd Reluctor and crank sensors?
You might want to confirm that the crank pulley hub is an FD one, I cant see the locking pin on the front which makes me think it may be a 20b one.
This will giving you timing issues down the track if it isn't resolved.
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95...quest-1091664/
Most of what you need to know is in the above thread.
I'm suprised to see that they PP'ed a long crank 20b, seems almost a wasy of a thick center plate. Also I see you have an fd Front cover on it. I take it you intend on running the fd Reluctor and crank sensors?
You might want to confirm that the crank pulley hub is an FD one, I cant see the locking pin on the front which makes me think it may be a 20b one.
This will giving you timing issues down the track if it isn't resolved.
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95...quest-1091664/
Most of what you need to know is in the above thread.
#3
Great to see another build underway. I take it you got this direct from Racing Beat?
I'm suprised to see that they PP'ed a long crank 20b, seems almost a wasy of a thick center plate. Also I see you have an fd Front cover on it. I take it you intend on running the fd Reluctor and crank sensors?
You might want to confirm that the crank pulley hub is an FD one, I cant see the locking pin on the front which makes me think it may be a 20b one.
This will giving you timing issues down the track if it isn't resolved.
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95...quest-1091664/
Most of what you need to know is in the above thread.
I'm suprised to see that they PP'ed a long crank 20b, seems almost a wasy of a thick center plate. Also I see you have an fd Front cover on it. I take it you intend on running the fd Reluctor and crank sensors?
You might want to confirm that the crank pulley hub is an FD one, I cant see the locking pin on the front which makes me think it may be a 20b one.
This will giving you timing issues down the track if it isn't resolved.
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95...quest-1091664/
Most of what you need to know is in the above thread.
I noticed right after buying it that it had the FD front cover and not an FD hub. I have already purchased an FD pulley hub/pulley and timing ring to match the rest of the setup. I do plan on buying the FFE kit, if the drysump front cover will allow for its use.
#4
I drew up a quick exhaust flange in Solidworks and 3D printed a sample to check fit. Part fit fine, I think I will thin it out a bit. I am debating between running 3 single flanges and 1 flange with 3 ports. Less weight and cheaper material cost with 3 single flanges. I have not really came up with any benefits of a long 3 port flange.
Also took some detailed port pictures today. Seems like RB did a great job with the port work.
Also took some detailed port pictures today. Seems like RB did a great job with the port work.
#7
Hey Trey, hope to see you put up a build thread soon!
I've seen the Chip flange, it is a nice piece but I want to build every part of this that I can, since it will be cheaper and a good learning experience for me. I'll be buying a CNC mill somewhat soon so that I can do all the work in house for cost of materials.
I only offered 10% less than his asking price as it was/is a great deal in general. I have receipts for over 13k just from Racing beat, not including cost of the engine in the first place.
I only offered 10% less than his asking price as it was/is a great deal in general. I have receipts for over 13k just from Racing beat, not including cost of the engine in the first place.
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (7)
Hey Trey, hope to see you put up a build thread soon!
I've seen the Chip flange, it is a nice piece but I want to build every part of this that I can, since it will be cheaper and a good learning experience for me. I'll be buying a CNC mill somewhat soon so that I can do all the work in house for cost of materials.
I only offered 10% less than his asking price as it was/is a great deal in general. I have receipts for over 13k just from Racing beat, not including cost of the engine in the first place.
I've seen the Chip flange, it is a nice piece but I want to build every part of this that I can, since it will be cheaper and a good learning experience for me. I'll be buying a CNC mill somewhat soon so that I can do all the work in house for cost of materials.
I only offered 10% less than his asking price as it was/is a great deal in general. I have receipts for over 13k just from Racing beat, not including cost of the engine in the first place.
#9
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
Yea, I know an actual build thread is long over due but the project keeps morphing. Getting ready to pull the engine so I can build version 2 of my intake. Hopefully this one doesn't look like some hack job. Seeing if I can get enough done before Sevenstock this year. Gonna upgrade to the Haltech Elite as well.
#10
Yea, I know an actual build thread is long over due but the project keeps morphing. Getting ready to pull the engine so I can build version 2 of my intake. Hopefully this one doesn't look like some hack job. Seeing if I can get enough done before Sevenstock this year. Gonna upgrade to the Haltech Elite as well.
#16
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Dude, some serious eye candy. The coolant passage work near the spark plugs made me raise my eyebrows
I like the fact that you set the parts on towels, make sure they're resting nice and comfortably
I like the fact that you set the parts on towels, make sure they're resting nice and comfortably
#17
I'm paranoid about scratching things or parts rolling into each other, the towels prevent this. When I do a final clean on the parts I'll seal them in plastic until they get assembled, they still we be resting on towels though haha. A comfortable engine is a happy engine
#19
According to the invoice I got with the engine it says Racing Beat machined them. Thank
I will probably be trading these rotors with a gentlemen who has a set of 3 S5 NA lightweight rotors. Still working out the details but I'd love to go high comp.
Matt
#22
Right now I've been working on slowly doing all the mods needed to run the drysump on the engine. I've drilled and tapped the bearing oil feed holes in the front and center iron. My wife and I will be buying a house in the next few months so most updates will come after that as I've been waiting for my new garage before getting too deep on this project. I'll probably have the engine reassembled in the next month or two as I don't want to move with it in pieces (too risky).
Matt
Matt
#24
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
Right now I've been working on slowly doing all the mods needed to run the drysump on the engine. I've drilled and tapped the bearing oil feed holes in the front and center iron. My wife and I will be buying a house in the next few months so most updates will come after that as I've been waiting for my new garage before getting too deep on this project. I'll probably have the engine reassembled in the next month or two as I don't want to move with it in pieces (too risky).
Matt
Matt
#25
Hey Matt seems they went all out on your engine. To further bullet proof, I would highly recommend sending your rotory housings to Chips Motorsports so he can install those PP block off plates since you already have everything apart. Eventually that epoxy will start to leak over enough heat cycles due to expansion differences of the epoxy and aluminum. That's been my biggest problem with my setup. With his plates, you won't ever have to worry about the engine drinking coolant.
Matt