External oil mod help!!!!!
 

iv seen external oil lines going threw the irons on some 2 rotor & 3 rotor cars that the lines go strait to the bearings to the oil filter. Its suppose to be a better system from what i have heard & its 10x cheaper to do then going dry sump. but i can not find info and specs on how to do it. any info and pictures would be greatly appreciated. I know TURBLOWN had pics eather on here or on there website but i could not find neither or any info about it.

people do this when they have dry sump or solid dowels.

Iv seen it with just oversized studs. Its suppose to flow oil to the bearings better then factory oil passages. Ur suppose to block something on the front housing also i forgot exacly how to do it iv read up on it awile ago but cant remember how anymore its been awile

https://www.rx7club.com/20b-parts-on...setup-1030168/
This is the setup im trying to do. Any info on how to do this

:icon_tup:

Its pretty straight forward, just delete all oil flow through the front cover, and upper oil gallery(use a solid dowel). You will be removing two of the oil gallery plugs and installing AN adapter fittings. Usually you drill out the passages to be larger too, and you can do the same for the stationary gears. This modifications will drastically increase oil flow and pressure, while keeping the front main bearings oil supply cooler. You also no longer have to worry about blowing an o-ring on the front cover. If you are worried about cracking plates you can also press in a steel tube into each stat gear feed( in both front and rear irons) so if you crack your iron you can't loose any oil.

Is there a how to read up on this or no? Wondering if anybody did one. Iv looked but couldnt find anything

Im very interested in your idea.

First on the list.

Measure the inside diameter of the stock upper dowel pins.
Once you know what the size is.
Measure the external feed entries
Now calculate the inside diameter of dowel pin to the entry point of the external oil feeds.

If that does not raze concerns.

send your parts out to a shop that knows how fluid dynamics work..

good luck

I'm not understanding why the use of solid dowel pins? When oil travels through the oil filter and enters the rear housing, the flow 1st hits the rear bearing then through the dowel pin to the center bearing and finally the front bearing. As the oil keeps moving towards the front of the engine, it losses flow and pressure due to the bleed off of the rear and center rotors. When you add the upper AN fittings to the center and front housings, and split off the oil feed prior to the filter, you have a more even distribution of flow to all 3 sections. So I don't see we why you have to run solid dowels to block the flow between the housings when the fluid itself can't be compressed and the feeds and pressures are entering directly and equally. I've had some fluid hydraulics training so maybe I'm missing something?

I use the solid dowels for alignment of the engine. You don't have to use them when doing the external lines. I have done it both ways, and never seen any negative impact on the engine bearings/oil system. The solid dowel/steel sleeve method is to combat the effects of breaking an iron( can spray oil on the front tire going down the drag strip). I've torn down engines with 10K+ miles this way. All the bearings inside the 3 engines were completely spotless, and looked like they had just been installed.

Also iv noticed that some people do the top on the front plate as it already has a treaded hole & turblown iv seen in a picture actually drills a new hole & taps it in the middle of the iron were its more direct & better flowing/shorter time to feed the bearing

We rebuild 20B's on a regular basis, the center bearing is the one that we see fail far more often then the front and rear. When the center bearing fails it typically causes damage to the thick intermediate, e-shaft and center and/or front rotor. Obviously the most costly components of the engine.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/2012_cu...scorching2.JPG

http://www.banzai-racing.com/2012_cu...n/e-shaft1.JPG

http://www.banzai-racing.com/2012_cu...tor_damge1.JPG

All the rest of the bearings in this engine were in like new condition.

We have found that installing a -8 AN fitting in the thick intermediate and an oil distribution block off the oil filter pedestal supplies the oil that the bearing needs. We do not block the oil flow through the block, we just add another supply, by drilling out the brass plug and tapping the hole. We also install a new FD oil pump and pressure regulator.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/2012_cu...ted_inter3.JPG

http://www.banzai-racing.com/2012_cu...build_rear.JPG

If the engine has cracked the dowel pin landings then the sold dowel is a requirement.

Banzai- isnt that plate above is a thin dowel land so do you add the solid dowel pins and have to feed the front plate through the turbo oil feed port?
Or do you not bother with solid dowels?

The one above is a B series N/A engine used in an airplane, factory dowel pins but still needs additional oil for the center bearing.

possibly stupid question, but is it possible to add the extra oil fitting in the center iron without opening up the engine?

My engine is out of the car but I do not intend to rebuild it just yet (good comp etc), i do have the chance to do this. Possibly by removing the oil pan, fitting the extra oil line and trying to blow it through as much as possible and refit oil pan?

I wouldn't considering all the metal shaving from drilling & taping will damage the bearing

Not recommended but you could drill and tap while the engine is upside down. This way non of the shavings falls towards the bearings.

LOL ,,, once again none of the above procedures are correctly done or thought out,

Fluid Dynamics is a big part to understanding what is going on to flow of liquid. Adding -6 -8 -10 -12 to the center front irons by them self from what ever source will not yield better results.

If you have time to burn, take a garden hose, at the main turn on valve, add a Y fitting, one out must be bigger than the standard size of the garden hose fitting must be larger, Once you turn on the water you will see what happens to your flow, you can add back pressure, all day long it will act the same under pressure or free flow.

If you guys still have a hard time understanding whats going on and how to have it done correctly.

Still asking how can i just add a main center bearing feed only. Burning bearings up will be the norm..


For those that state opening up engines that have miles on them ( after oil feed nonsense) and wow brand new bearing appearance, posting pictures before after data to prove bold statements, is necessary, so ass-hols like me can stay away..

^^^No problem with your opinion, but after your comment you should reach out for a better option/solution