Dave's First gen 20B - a work in progress...

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Old 07-28-18, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by eddieturbo2
What psi and hp did you max the s369sxe at with the 1.0 a/r?

And where did you find a 1.10 housing for it?

The largest I can find is the 1.0 twin scroll or .96 open scroll.
I found the s369 w/1.0a/r was maxing out around 520hp ..thats with a 3.5" exhaust... there would be a few variables which may yield better results, i.e manifold. My tuner is awesome and kept the heat out...the motor loves it and behaves perfectly all year round.

The 1.10 housing was sourced through the turbo shop I use, however I dont think its a Borg Warner.. seems a bit off...but anyway, I feel its given a bit more flow..


I have the eboost set to trigger the WI at 16psi and that surely must help cool the charge air... I don't have any data..I gotta get some inlet temps with it on and off.


Raced the car the other night and ran 11.2 @ 136mph, then an 11.4 @ 137... Need to sort my launch and 60' and I'll be able to bring that time down.


Got a few more updates coming, so i'll get some pics up soon.
Old 07-30-18, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by stokrx
I have the eboost set to trigger the WI at 16psi and that surely must help cool the charge air... I don't have any data..I gotta get some inlet temps with it on and off.

Raced the car the other night and ran 11.2 @ 136mph, then an 11.4 @ 137... Need to sort my launch and 60' and I'll be able to bring that time down.

Got a few more updates coming, so i'll get some pics up soon.
Good to see you still have this Dave. Nice big MPH there.

WI won't necessarily bring the intake temps down - in fact it can sometimes through off intake air sensors because the water condenses on the sensor probe. Some people report drop in intake temps, some people don't. Where the magic happens with WI is in taking heat out during combustion.

It would great to see an update on your AusRotary build log too!
Old 08-09-18, 04:39 PM
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stokrx,

Thanks for the update, Glad to see the car is running well.
Yes, your manifold is merged before the turbo I was just looking at it. I was thinking that could be part of the problem. It may just be best to open it up...

I was talking to the fellas at AGPTurbo.com and I was recommended to use a open scroll .96 A/R for my 20b and S369 combo. I have an undivided manifold currently and they said it was the best way to go before stepping up to a larger frame size. It is the least restriction possible for an engine that can not really be setup for twin scroll. Additionally, one of their designers told me if I tried to use a twin scroll turbine housing on a undivided manifold I would need a ridiculous A/R in the range of 1.46 to achieve flow similar to the open scroll .96 A/R. Its is all in the restriction of that thick divider and not being able to divide the flow evenly.

I still have a long way to go on my build before I can verify the performance of the open scroll .96 A/R. Still need to close the block and install everything. But I figured I would pass along the info I gathered so far.
Old 08-11-18, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by KYPREO
Good to see you still have this Dave. Nice big MPH there.

WI won't necessarily bring the intake temps down - in fact it can sometimes through off intake air sensors because the water condenses on the sensor probe. Some people report drop in intake temps, some people don't. Where the magic happens with WI is in taking heat out during combustion.

It would great to see an update on your AusRotary build log too!

Hey Kypreo!!

Thanks for looking bud!

Yeh I have to get back onto AusRotary soon!!

I should have said charge air, instead of inlet temp. I follow what your saying, the water would all be gone before the IC im guessing!

-Dave.
Old 08-11-18, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by eddieturbo2
stokrx,

Thanks for the update, Glad to see the car is running well.
Yes, your manifold is merged before the turbo I was just looking at it. I was thinking that could be part of the problem. It may just be best to open it up...

I was talking to the fellas at AGPTurbo.com and I was recommended to use a open scroll .96 A/R for my 20b and S369 combo. I have an undivided manifold currently and they said it was the best way to go before stepping up to a larger frame size. It is the least restriction possible for an engine that can not really be setup for twin scroll. Additionally, one of their designers told me if I tried to use a twin scroll turbine housing on a undivided manifold I would need a ridiculous A/R in the range of 1.46 to achieve flow similar to the open scroll .96 A/R. Its is all in the restriction of that thick divider and not being able to divide the flow evenly.

I still have a long way to go on my build before I can verify the performance of the open scroll .96 A/R. Still need to close the block and install everything. But I figured I would pass along the info I gathered so far.
Yep, that is the issue for sure..the divided has been robbing me since day one. I've just picked up a Tial 1.30 and will make a new manifold to suit and see what that yields.. Its still super responsive atm... spooling well before 3krpms, so I'm aiming to keep that response with a few more ponies!

-Dave

Old 08-17-18, 04:01 PM
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Dave,

That is truly a awesome looking turbine housing. I did not even think about the Tial V-band clamp housings in that size. Looks really well made. I am going to keep an eye on the thread to see your results as I am sure it will make a big difference for you.

I need to get on my game and finish my build soon. It has been sitting way too long. Hoping to get the engine doweled soon if my local guy can do it.
Old 08-17-18, 04:01 PM
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Dave,

That is truly a awesome looking turbine housing. I did not even think about the Tial V-band clamp housings in that size. Looks really well made. I am going to keep an eye on the thread to see your results as I am sure it will make a big difference for you.

I need to get on my game and finish my build soon. It has been sitting way too long. Hoping to get the engine doweled soon if my local guy can do it.
Old 08-18-18, 11:30 PM
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Went racing the other night and finally broke something...

The slip yoke decided it didn't want to play the 20B game anymore...



Yep, she's busted!



Broke the casting on the rear of the gearbox output case..bit annoying as I'll have to pull the box to replace it.



Trying to look pretty while waiting for the Tow Truck!



Now it will be off the road for a time, I can star on the next rounds of mods.. will be sourcing a stronger slip yoke and making a tail shaft loop now too!

Making a strut brace as will give me some much needed rigidity across my front end, plan is to run another cross bar between the plenum & alternator.




-Dave

Last edited by stokrx; 08-18-18 at 11:33 PM.
Old 08-19-18, 07:49 AM
  #184  
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If that was the original mazda one I have seen that before. you can get a stronger one with larger and stronger uni joints to replase it
Old 08-22-18, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by WJM ROTARIES
If that was the original mazda one I have seen that before. you can get a stronger one with larger and stronger uni joints to replase it
Mazda slip yoke is long gone...its a Toyota one. The box is a R154.
Old 11-08-18, 12:41 PM
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That sucks that the car broke but I am sure it will come back better than ever. I am assuming you will be taking advantage and installing the new turbine housing and manifold while you are at it. So you can put that new slip yoke to the test......
Old 01-01-19, 10:53 PM
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Happy New Year Team 20B!! Ages since any up dates so i'll put up a few!

Been busy with few different projects/family life and work, so hit the 20B when time permitted.

I modified my exhaust manifold to suit the new Tial housing and this was easy and successful. This new way I've done it should flow a great deal better than the last one and was quite quick to knock up.



Proper DIY back yarder style! Just used a grinder and got the angles almost perfect.



Tacked up, slightly off but the die grinder will sort that out!




All welded up.



Next was to work out where the new housing would sit and jig it up with the new flange.



Once again, in the back yard section by section.



All welded up..next onto the wastegate.



Wastegate position was nearly identical to the last set up, however this time it's only a single outlet out of the common merge section.

Moving onto the strut brace, finishing of the last brace.. tried to do it like the RX8 R3.





All done.



Very happy how this turned out, fits perfectly and should stiffen up the front end considerably. Beat thing is that it only cost me $16 dollars to make!!

Moving back to the hot side now, increased the exhaust dump from 3.5" to a 4" dump to aid in eliminating a bit of back pressure.



A bit tricky, but got there in the end.. by the end i was over crawling under the car ( on jackstands) lol.



All tacked up.

-

Last edited by stokrx; 01-01-19 at 10:55 PM.
Old 01-05-19, 05:59 AM
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Happy new year dude!

and that looks awesome man! Well impressive and love home build things!! Haha legend!
Old 01-14-19, 02:09 PM
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Happy New Year!

Glad to see the car coming back to life. Great job on that manifold build looks impressive. I am sure it will help free up a good amount of horsepower.

Seeing your build inspired me to get my 20b to the finish line. Motor should be back from the machine shop this week. Just got the rotors clearance an the entire rotating assembly balanced. While it was there I had it studded as well. Once I get that block closed up I can start the fun part of getting it installed.

I am looking forward to seeing your progress.
Old 01-18-19, 07:31 AM
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Great Build!
Old 04-17-19, 09:39 AM
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Stokrx,

How is the build coming along?
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