WOn't go into gear while enginge running
 

New Goopy re-build, new clutch etc... it will go into gear while engine is off but won't when engine is on. WTF!?

spigot bearing

same exact thing is happening to me. Ive checked everything. What is a spigot bearing????

Its the little bearing in the middle of your flywheel. It may have got munted if g'box didnt go in straight.
Could also be the clutch plate went on backwards?

isnt that called the pilot bearing

Yep, same thing^^

US/ british

pilot bearing = spigot bearing
trunk = boot
hood = bonnet

tomato=potato

Ohh I see haha but why would that bearing not let the car go into gear doesnt it just sit there to hold the end of the tranny

Engages the clutch when everything spins. I have a feeling it wont go in cause the clutch wont disengage. When my clutch hose leaked it wouldn't go in gear when it was running (tryed limping it down my driveway).

It's either the throwout bearing or the pilot bearing. Replace both and be done with it. My pilot bearing locked up and I could not get the car into gear.

probably the pilot bearing, usually gets munched during an engine install.

when it fails it usually locks the transmission input shaft to the flywheel, pressing the clutch has no effect on releasing it so the transmission is always spinning. car can't move when the engine is running, basically like trying to put the car in gear with the clutch out.

a faulty throwout bearing is usually accompanied by loud screeching noises when you press the clutch or an extremely soft pedal.

jtalar ... hyd clutch bled?? if you need a hand hollar we can knock it out fast ... if not properly bled the clutch won't disengage resulting in no shift with engine running

Brand new throwout and pilot bearing.......and yes I bled the clutch when I replaced the clutch slave cylinder......this car has more new parts on it, than a fat chick has rolls........I really don't feel like pulling the F'N trans out AGAIN!!!!!

If bleeding the clutch system & making sure there's adequate travel at the slave doesn't solve your issue, sadly everything else that might be the culprit will be inside the bellhousing.

don't blame ya ... bleed it some more ... sometimes just needs that lil bit more

if it winds up being the pilot bearing check the transmission input shaft for scarring. it may have failed previously and left some marring which can eat up a brand new pilot. when joining the engine to the transmission it's a good idea to work the eccentric shaft back and forth to walk the transmission onto the engine, i also do a few full rotations with the transmission out of gear before cinching the bolts down to be sure the pilot is centered.

I had the same problem with my old engine after I changed the clutch one time. Never figured out what the cause was. Let me know if you figure it out, I'm curious.

i just order a new excedy clutch kit with throw out and pilot bearing. also a new master cyilinder and hose. its gotta get into gear after that ill keep you peeps posted.

make sure you get the flywheel skimmed at a decent brake and clutch place too.

Ordering parts without knowing what's wrong can be a real expensive diagnostic approach... you're gonna be bummed if you get it apart & discover that all that's wrong is that the pilot got munged when you mated the engine and trans.

But if you can afford it, replacing *everything* will usually solve a problem, unless it was a matter of mis-installation and not bad parts.

I would love to resurface the flywheel too but i dont have access to the special tool needed to remove it.

i would love to try and figure out what part is bad but id rather remove the tranny and reinstall it once and be done with it. Its a fricking PITA when removing the thing alone

True, many of us have been there, done that. I think all DD is saying you only have to fix what's broke. A "traditional"mechanic thinks that way. It is wise to replace all the major wear and high failure components when inside something thats difficult or labor intensive to reach. Good idea if the rest of your clutch components are worn or ready to be replaced.

DD's point is, replacing everything just so that you don't have to guess at the real problem can be expensive and will not guarantee sucess. If the bearing was damaged during assembly, installing all new parts just to make the same mistake during re-assembly will only land you right back where you are now, only lighter in the wallet.

Too many of todays mechanic's are just "part changers". It don't work so we'll just throw on a new one. Good for the dealerships, bad for the consumers. By following that logic, someday we'll all be forced into removing the the radiator cap and replacing everything under it, every time something goes wrong.

Don't be afraid to learn. Read the clues, diagnois and really fix things. Experience is always the best teacher and anything worth anything is never easy. There will be signs of damage on the bearing if that was the problem. Look and find what went wrong and fix it. The members here will answer any questions you have along the way.

Hey where are you at with this? ?