Why? when choke is out
 

why when my choke is out my car idles fine (at 2000) but when i release it my car dies. what sympton is this, what can i adjust on the carb to get it tuned properly. i left it running with the choke out for over 5 mins today to see if this proplem would presist and it did, the moment i put the choke back in it died within 3 secounds

have you tryed adjusting the idel screw?

Try air mixture screw

Yes to both

1 and 1/4 back on the idle and on the air/fuel mixture did whatever

its a 3 1/2 back from tight for the a/fm
and just screw the idel screw in heaps so ya car should idel high with out the choke then adgust it back till ya reach whatever 1000

ok thanks the 3 1/2 back would make sence, ill try tomorrow and see how it goes i cant go out there right now and fidle. It's in my neighbours garage and i dont think they'll apprieciate me startin a engine right nexted to there house now.

lol yeah im pretty sure they wouldnt
have you had your car long?
what have you done to it?
check my thread for my latest mod
still havnt got the old girl runnin yet tho its kinda a kick in the but

try changing the fuel filter..sounds like the only way you are gettin fuel is if you Gag it.to suck fuel..needle valve could have crud in it too..check the float level also,

I have had my car for about a year and a couple months but i didnt get my full licence until november so i wasnt aloud to even drive around. i never seemed too modivated to workin on it, i thought the engine might be shit but it seems to be strong still. but now after learning more and more. the last 3 months i have worked on it lots. and plus i need a car to start driving around in.

The only mods i got at this point are FC oil cooler and im in the middle of putting together the transistor trick. oh yea i just rebuilt the carb a couple weeks ago

i have taken my car out last week for one drive around the block (with choke out) and thats about it but im trying to get it on the road by this weekend. so close to doing it to

yea a new fuel filter would be a good idea. its gettin fuel though. The Needle valve shouldnt have any crud in it, i just rebuilt the carb 2 weeks ago


any suggestion on Fuel filter, everyone on here is allways bickering about them so i never know what one to actually go out and buy. the one on there is a puralator

just get a stock Fuel filter..OEM..that way you know that you are not buyin garbage..I'm slowly Goin from stock(2nd gen)..and until I read about sure-fire "forum proven" stuff I keep it simple..No internal Mods..just all bolt on (86 N/A)..that way when I upgrade(every one does!)..I take all my stuff off and go on from there..you can get alot out of a Carbed set-up..GET a nice Header on that(long collected) ..and a K&N on top ..lettin that puppy breathe is a Good cheap MOD ..you'd be suprised when you "Butt dyno" it after that!..Good luck my friend..

yea was going to go nexted weekend to get a K&N filter

damn my battery was dieing so we got it runnging to charge the battery and then the choke went in (i guess it warmed up enough) and it died agian and we couldnt get enough juice out of the battery to start again but we do figure its the fuel filter cause one line is having problems getting fuel. I can jsut go to a local mazda and they should have the OEM one right? or is there other alternatives that work good?

Well I don't know about your engine but my engine had low compression and wouldn't idle at low rmp's. Try doing a compression test just to make sure. I don't know, just a possibility. Didn't think that was my problem, did the test and sure enough it had low compression.

hay one q is ya carb got all the emmisions equipment?
do u have smog?

did you get a compression test at a mazda dealer?

No, my friend had a compression tester and we tested it. We dumped some MMO in it to see if it was carbon build up. The compression went up a little more. It finanlly didn't go up after using a complete bottle of MMO. It wouldnt idle low and it wouldn't start hot. I figured this was the prime oppurtunity to jump on getting a new motor which I did.

yes i got all the emissions stuff

and we did do a compression test and we got 40 and a 50 and i was like wtf my engine is shit so we asked some guy that delt with rotary's adn he said since we had a valve in the gauge wouldnt read right but he said that was fine and i was like 80 is even low it should be any where from 90-110 right. but the car runs fine and has enough power so i dont know what exactly the compression actually is but my dad did it to make sure it was even worth keeping and thats where we are now.

can some one tell me if this is correct

compression test with the valve in i got 40 front, 50 back. some guy that suposelly worked with rotary's (i dont knowwho to beleive because apparently every one has owned one lol) the guy said if you take the valve out you get a better reading and that the compression i have seems right but it seems really bad

With the valve out, you will get a reading for all 3 faces. As fast as the needle bounces, it can be hard to tell the exact psi for each one. With the valve in, you will get a reading for the best face out of the 3. If your highest reading with the valve in is under 80 psi, and you have a strong battery and the engine is turning at least 250 rpm, it's time for a rebuild.

When I ran my compression test on the bp at the first oil change, 250 miles on the rebuild, I was getting bounces on all 6 faces of 105-110 psi. This was with Atkins seals which supposedly take longer to seat.

we where turning it by hand so there would be know way i was turning it at 250 rpm

Then you won't get close to any kind of useable reading. Bolt up the flywheel, tranny and starter, hook a battery directly to the starter, jumper the bendix wire and test.

This is how i will test a 300ZX engine I pulled last week, except there is so much shit to move out of the way just to remove the plugs.

You're wasting your time trying to spin it by hand.

so i actaully have to run the car you mean. I have to take one spark plug out and run it off three well the compression tester is in one of the holes?

i lied when i said by hand, i just had the engine cranking it wouldnt run at the time

No, you don't want the engine to start. Cranking speed through the starter should be at least 250 rpm, idle is 750. You want to disable the fuel pump and spark to the plugs, then crank it over with the key. Take one plug out of each housing, install the tester in the open spark plug hole. First one housing, then the other.

top or bottom or does it matter, we ddi this all last time but the top holes