Who still uses the stock oil injection system?
 

I think using 2 stroke pre-mix oil is a much better because burning the engine oil leaves carbon in the engine and it doesn't spread too well over the rotor seal from the time it is injected to the time the fuel is ignited. There is also no indication when the OMP(oil metering pump) fails.

I figure Mazda went with this system because it wouldn't be a very strong selling point if they had to tell you "Don't forget to buy premix and add it to every fill up."

So who still uses premix and who uses premix?

There is always that metering setup you can buy that will meter 2cycle oil from a resevior instead of the engine oil. This is what I may do eventually since premixing is kind of a pain. But I do agree 2cycle oil is much better as far as longevity is concerned and less aging of the important parts: rotor housings and apex seals. Most of the other parts are less effected anyway.

OH, and as far as importance of going 2cycle is probably dependant on a number of factors. How patient you are, how many Horsepower you are making, what type of seals you use, what rpm you run. I think a stock or mildports with any intake or any exhust will be fine with stock OMP if its not driven hard much. If you are going to be on a road track much, I would DEFINITELY convert for all the high rpm you will run....or just add 2cycle oil for such occations and disconnect the OMP for this.

Now for regularily hard driven rotaries, I would recommend 2cycle all the time. And more so for those with boost and bridgeports, and anything bigger.

Now some will argue that some engines running turbo'd 500hp get away with OMP, but their engines probably would prefer 2cycle and would probably last longer if they don't break from detonation first.

I would run 2 cycle oil in my car... to afraid of forgetting to put it in... still useing the stock oil metering pump with mine... whats the deal with the oil metering pump that extracts oil from another source???

I forgot the website, but it does exsist. I think its like somewhere between 100-200bucks though.

Click here to check out a site that sells an adapter for the OMP to pump 2 stroke oil into the engine. You have to come up with your own reservoir, but its not too difficult if you are good at fabricating stuff. You can even incorporate an oil level sensor to light up a light when the reservoir gets low on 2 stroke oil, MMO, or what ever you decide to inject.

i couldn't vote :( because "SOMEBODY" (cough*project84*cough) did not include people like me in the poll choices, who use both the OMP and premix ... :D

Premix is the way to go, It burns cleaner than OMP, so you can at least feel a little better, apeasing the tree-huggers and all ;)

It allows you to run a synthetic without worry, at it lubricates all of your seals better than the stock system, which only really lubricates the apex seals, and then only before comustion takes place... oil at that point decomposes, and loses most of its lubrication ability, and turns to carbon, to be scraped up (and hopefully burned eventually) by the swipe of the next apex seal. 2-stroke is supposed to continue lubricating even after combustion.

The only downfall It has is the added maintenance. But who of you isn't willing to sacrifice the 30-sec every fillup to keep your engine happy? Don't you check your oil every fillup anyway.... I find it no more anoying than having to take the cap of the tank. Just buy in bulk and always keep a bottle with you. (if you forget for some reason, most service stations carry 2 stroke oil, of course you pay a premium)

Thanks man hell $75 sounds good to me... ;)

so one of these
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/images...n-ADAPTERS.jpg
would go great with one of these
http://store.summitracing.com/global.../mor-63657.jpg
or
http://store.summitracing.com/global.../sum-g1506.jpg

Dude. Why you wanna to use both at the same time? :scratch:

..beacause he is special? :confused: ;) :p:

btw: I run premix.

-Error402

Thats what I'm gonna do, and put the tank over on the strut tower. For now its stock for me.

The real question is this...what scientific or credible proof (beyond what sounds right on paper or in your head...) does anyone have to support all the assumptions being made? It's a fact that most rotaries, stock and modified, are going 150,000+ miles before rebuilds which begs the question, "Why bother?".... ;) :cool:

Thats probably true if you don't drive that hard much.(hard driving is a relative term which varies from person to person greatly) But if you were like me, you would find out quick, my engines are abused excessively ALL the time. Not nessessitating 2cycle, but a very good idea.

I used to think 2cycle wasn't a good idea either till I found how it really does keep the engine cleaner after a tare-down and inpection. Spark plugs stay clean and start the car easier-in my experience. I do think its a pain to do, but longevity with hard driving is definitely improved.

close, very close ;)

i'm just paranoid, and i subscribe to the "too-much-is-almost-enough" school of thinking to cover all grounds. i'm a borderline OCD-sufferer :) and i'm driven by the fact that i simply can't afford to let this thing die on me anytime soon.

actually there is a reason ... when i put my current engine in the car, i ran into some trouble with the OMP. i'm running an SE motor with a Gen II Dell'Orto setup. the SE rod doesn't fit, and for some ungodly reason, neither does the rod for the Gen II. i've been meaning to try one of my 12A rods, but the problem with that is, my 12A parts are in NY ... and i'm in FL. so i rigged up my OMP with a clothes hanger (ghetto, i know) ... and i'm not sure if it's pumping enough - and i'm just too damn lazy to check. i know it pumps, but i have not measured it because it's just a pain to loosen one of the lines. it's much easier for me buy premix and use it.
that way, i'm covered no matter how much my OMP works or not.

I run both as well.

No Rod on the OMP, so it is always in the maximum position, and add a little 2 cycle mixed in when there's race fuel in the tank.

I pre-mix and run the OMP. Why? Because unlike most cars that can only go up to ten, mine goes to ELEVEN. That's why. :D

Besides, I don't have to worry that my engine's internals are starving of oil when I drive it hard.

And no.... it doesn't smoke.

Wouldn't removing the rod keep the flow of oil to a minimum? :confused:

What I did with my OMP was this....

1. Disable OMP lever
- Removed the rod.
2. Rerouted the oil line
- I made the oil feed line run to oil return line with a hose
3. Disable OMP internatls
- Took out the little tab "thingie" that spins and makes the oil pump...well pump oil. (Do you like my high tech speak there? ;) )

This way I could use the OMP as a block off plate and not fab my own. :p:

-Error402

You didn't create an option for both!

I dont use mine on my 85 or my 88... The 88 still has it hooked up, but since it doesnt loose oil between oil changes, I assume it dont work :( Oh well I premix anyways, even if the OMP does work.. On the 85, you guys know the story...

My OMP shit itself just after I put my new engine in about 2 years ago. :eek: I'm not sure if it was the pump itself or something in the front cover starving it of oil but it simply stopped working. Suffice to say I now premix.

It's really not much of a hassle at all. I buy the 2-stroke in large containers then add a certain amount to a smaller measured container which I take with me. It's the same every time so there's no :scratch: at the pump. Just dump it in and add the right amount of fuel.

Now I think we need a poll for what type of pre-mix and what amount, I've been using MMO, 6oz. to a tankfull(16 gallons) regularly, will that work?

When I bought my GS, I had someone "knowledgable" tune my carb (I don't understand these things, IMO their archaic, I'm into FI more), and the idiot broke one of my OMP lines, running into the carb. I had checked them when I first looked at the car, so I didn't think anything about it, till I noticed more smoke coming from the engine bay. I practically crapped a brick when I noticed I had driven about 1500 miles on it with a broken line. Since then I premix, 10k and counting. No problems so far, but I'm gearing up to do a TII swap, so its only gotta last a little longer.