Way to tighten steering rack?
 

IS there a way to tighten up the steering rack on the first gen. I know they are kind of notorious for getting loose. Any help would be great thanks.

Jeremy

Here you go:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...steering+grind



:)

I had a large amount of play in mine, turned out to be the idler arm bushing was shot. $6 and 15 minutes later -good as new. Next time you have the front end up have someone turn the steering wheel while you watch underneath. Give some resistance by holding one of the front wheels and see if you can visually determine where the play is coming from.

"Rack"?

remember musclecarconvert, the RX-7 uses a recirculating ball type steering box. no rack and pinion. adjestments to tighten the steering can result in excessive wear of the steering box. EXTREME care must be taken when adjusting the play in the box.

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...e4606ef017.jpg

Mine has a rack...

and quite a nice rack i might add :)

Check all the front end parts for wear first. Next, take up the adjustment just a bit at a time.

That's cheatin'!

mine will have a rack... 600 or so dollars later lol

I have a slightly unrelated question, my 83 GS has a steering issue were the steering wheel itself has play in it - were if you pull it, it will come towards you about 1inch, and you can push it back - you need to get the turn signal pegs back on it. In anycase, it is very annoying, but I am not aware of anyway to fix it. It seems like it has a shaft that slides in and out. It steers normally, and apparrently it is not a safety concern as it has been this way for years.
Any input??

I tried to adjust the steering rack in my 85 GS, no PS, and dang it I didn't have a socket or even a channel lock big enough. What size is that big nut? Are there any ghetto fab ways to get it loose?

https://i259.photobucket.com/albums/...n/DSCF1239.jpg

The monkey wrench will clamp down on that thin 41 mm lock nut on top of the steering box and will not let go. Whack it counterclockwise a couple times with the 3 lb. sledge to break the lock nut free, then use the nail punch to move the inside piece with the dimples a few degrees clockwise. Best to do this with the front wheels off the ground to avoid stressing the worm gear. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTMENT!! You can do more damage than good.

Yes, it will cost you a thousand dollars. It is called Re-Speed. Mine is on order and will get shipped out this week.

Thanks, congrats on the respeed R&P upgrade. If I wasn't going to
swap a 302 later I would upgrade too! I'm seriosly considering
the fc upgrade with more threads coming up

Sure, if you like having to stick the rack under the engine.

A front mount rack is the only correct way to do it. The easiest way to accomplish that is to raid a junk FC for its front end. A GSL-SE engine should bolt up without too much drama, a FC engine will literally drop in like it was made for it. I just did things the hard way.