Voltage drops to nothing when trying to crank HELP!!!
 

I searched around but found nothing that was similar to my problem.

First of all the main fusible link shorted out. Being how I had to get my car somewhere other then where it was my friend shoved my letherman pliers in the fuse box thingy and it cranked over fine. He then took out the pliers and the car continued to run but the tack was all over the place. I cant even believe it ran at all with now main fuse. Anyway I drove it to advanced auto parts to buy a female blade style fuse thingy. I remember reading a write up on how someone used those instead of the fusible link as they don’t make those anymore or at least they don’t sell them anywhere near me. So I go in and buy a 50 amp blade fuse because I thought that’s what the write up said to use, well it blew so I guess I was wrong. I decided to just shove a thick wire in there and jump it and limp it home so I can look up what I need to do. I had my friend hold the wire where the fusible link used to be and tried to crank it. I had the key to ON and everything seem to work great. It said I had a little over 12 volts like usual and all the idiot lights came on and all that jazz. But as soon as I tried to crank it everything went dead. It even blue a 100amp fuse we tried. Yes I did a lot of stupid shit to this car but its worth less then 500 bucks and I needed to get home. Any help would be great. I plan on going back out to advanced auto parts to try to push it down a hill and pop the clutch out and start it that way. I might also hook up a battery directly to the started just to see if it still works.

well the way to go is to replace the fusible links with a second generation fuse box... Very simple to do takes like 10 minutes, and you can get a mount from Respeed (http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/) awesome guy by the way.

Ill attach a picture of my fusebox for reference, excuse the dusty engine bay...

I was going to do that next summer as I leave for college in less then 48 hours, so i kinda need a quck fix. thanks thouhg

It should be a 60 amp fuse main, but if its blowing a 100, that means something is shorted out somewhere.

Also if it runs without the main fuse...something is really wrong.

well fuck and double fuck

Don't even need to do all that. The 2nd gen fuses fit the 1st gen fuse box.

yes they do.

anyway i have a short somewher. I will have about 4 hours of daylight to work on the car after work and before i go to college. If i cant get the car running my parents will have it taken away.

help me please

Yeah, if you're blowing high amp fuses like that you have a short somewhere. The car will run without the main fusible link, I burnt mine on the way to work and it still ran. It just wouldn't start after I turned it off. I replace mine with an inline 30 amp fuse and have had no issues.

How old is your battery?

I do not know how old the battery is but it holds a 12+ volt charg fine ever since I got the car. I am trying to hunt down teh short now. I might gheto wire in a switch from the batteyr to the starter so i can start the car so that I can kinda say its drivable and keep it to till i can fix it

I must admit I am not that good with electrical. I have my friend helping me read some of the wiring diagrams from both the Haines and fsm. If any of you guys can think of something I could check between the battery and the starter for shorts please let me know. I am about the check the started itself.

update!!!

according to the wire diagrams the fuel pump and ignition system should not work without teh fuse, but they did? Could thise mean there is a short before the fuse box (fusible links)

to tell you the trush I am at a total loss on how to fix this

Double check that diagram. Remember, once the engine is running, you have two sources of juice... The battery AND the alternator.

What year is your car?

I'm skimming the diagrams in my 85 shop manual and Haynes... But without much to go on, I'm not sure what I should look for...

What I suggest is that you get a test light (Like $10... Looks like a screwdriver with a wire.) Clip it to the frame and hold the tip on the negative battery terminal (With the negative battery cable OFF... Have a friend start pulling fuses and possibly some of the larger wiring. (Large wire to the alternator... it could have an internal short when stopped.)

Once the light goes out, you've found your short.

I have one of those and will try that in about 2 weeks when I am home from college for the day.

I have a 85 gsl

On a stupid note since it only shorts out when I try to crank it and not when it’s just in the ON position that means I can track down the few components that only go on when cranking. As fare as I know the started is the only thing. Maybe I am stating the obvious, but aren’t I right?

Pull the steering column cover and take a look at the black cap on the left side of the ignition switch assembly...what condition is that cap in?

:cool:

I won’t be able to do this for 2 weeks but are you referring to the two fusible links inside the steering column?

Starter, Hot start assist, cold start assist, several other small ancillaries...

Your solenoid might be damaged internally so that it will still actuate, but draws excess current... I suggest looking at the back of your ignition switch as well.

thanks for all the help guys. I cant wait to go home and take a look at this