vacum secondaies and carb gound?
 

so, the car is legal as of today, and drove her all around. i just put on a nikki from a guy and it seems to work pretty well. but there is a couple problems

i shut it down to get gas, and when i tried to start it it wouldn't start. i looked down the barrel of the carb, and the secondaries were FULL of gas. i deflooded it, and then it ran perfectly. what i did to avoid the problem was before shutting down again i turned off the fuel pump (which is wired to my cruise button. lol) and let it die...that way there was no pressure, and everything looks fine.

anyways....i removed the emissions, and the secondaries are not working. they move freely, the linkage moves fine, but they don't open. where should i run the vacum line from that little round black thing that operates the secondaies? right now i have it plugged into one of the little thingies close to where the carb spacer was (i removed it), there is i think two little nipples which i think are for the dizzy vacum advance, but im not sure. is there a better place to steal vacum from?

also, there was a little ground wire (i think) that bolts right on top of the engine block. it has a little capacitor looking thing connected to the wire which i broke...so the wire isn't hooked up. does that have anything to do with anything? can i just ground the wire, and bypass the little capacitor looking thingy?


hope you guys know what im talking about...but ya...she's finally on the road...and drives great! just not fast! :pat: :suitdance :icon16:

I like your idea of the fuel cut switch hidden in the cruise button, very creative. I hope you have it run through a relay to protect the wiring from overloading. Can't help with the carb, but the broken wire tied in with the capacitor sounds like the one for the op pressure gauge. It is supposed to stabalize the signal from the sending unit and steady the needle on the gauge.

The vacuum secondaries will not open unless under suficient load, which you won't get in the drive way.
They are most probably flooded because you don't have the float bowl vent solenoid hooked up to an ignition switchable 12V+ lead.
This little gizmo is in the top of the airhorn and is a spring loaded plunger that seals off the carb & keeps it from breathing when the ignition is shut off. When it's activated, the solenoid is pulling the plunger open so the carb can breath.

Carby no breathy makes carby lot leaky!

yea i second with sterling, only real way to have a nikki flood like that is no fpr if aftermarket fuel pump or a stuck float.

Yeah, take a look at what Sterling suggested. Also, take a look at your float levels front and rear...

well, i have the connectors hooked up to it. at least the ones that are left since removing the thingy off the manifold and replaced that with a block off plate

could this be because of that ground thingy (black wire) with the capacitor looking thingy on it?

so far what i've been doing is just turning off the fuel pump and letting it die...then the car starts every time, and there's no left over gas in the carb

and what about vacum secondaries...where can i steal the vacum from since i removed the rats nest?. i believe its that vacum line that comes off the little round black box on the engine side of the carb, on the firewall side?

The vent solenoid is located right behind the alternator, and has only one wire going to it.

Also, I would pull off the vacuum secondaries and do the mechanical secondaries mod. Very simple and cleans up the clutter nicely.

anyone on the ground wire with the capacitor thingy?