V&V valves,how to fix/clean? if possible
 

well im in the process of replaceing or fixin my whole emissions system shit in my GSL-SE (tracking down why its runnin shittay).. and ive gotten to the V&V valves... i talked with my buddy at mazda and he can get them both to me at about $160.

but if i could clean them into working better or whatever thatd be cool soo i could put that money into front tires...

anyways.... i need input :)

thanks

shaun

Okay, as a fellow SE owner, I have to ask; what are V&V valves, or am I missing something?

Phew, I didn't know either. Though I was loosing it.

Air Control and Check Valve? Typo?

the vent and vacum soleniod valves (2barrel like thingys under the RE-EGI) work in conjusntion wiith the Bypass Air Control valve... and if they are not workin right or at all .. it can really fuhk up your idle and related stuff...

and i believe that its part of my problem..soo im tryin to clean them or sumthing.. soo HELP me please:(

^still askin for help

My understanding is that these are simply electrical solenoids that are controlled by the ECU to let vacuum or vent air pass through to control the BACV and Idle Compensator. If the dealer can get both of these parts new for $160, that's the route that I would take, because if you replace them with factory Mazda parts, and it still runs poorly, then you can move on to something else.

One of the problems with troubleshooting the SE's is the complexity of what gets handled by the ECU compared to a carb'd 12A. The rat's nest on a EGI 13B is much simpler, but what the computer does with intake air temp, coolant temp, etc., is harder to track down and figure out what's causing your idle issues.

I have found that cleaning the BACV valve can help with idle issues (lumpy, surging, or high idle) by removing the vacuum lines and connectors and the 2x10mm bolts holding it in place. Clean this out with a good brake cleaner and you may fix your problem for less than $160 for new vent and vacuum solenoids. Worth a shot at least, before you commit to the parts with the dealer.

I took my SE into a local dealer about a year ago to have them try and troubleshoot an idle issue that I could not (for the life of me) find at the time. The answer they gave me was that the engine was blown and needed to be replaced for about $3k. They even faked compression tests (verbal only, never printed), and told me that ONE of the chambers was showing a low compression reading - which means that TWO should have shown low compression... After I got it back, I educated myself on how to adjust the TPS, idle fuel mixture, cleaned my '6'-ports, BACV, and fixed it myself.

The lesson is; don't trust the dealer to troubleshoot it - do what you can and replace parts when necessary. HTH,

Can you swap parts from a second gen? If so, run to the junkyard and get two or three of them to try out instead. Usually idle problems with the SEs are TPS or AFM related, and just the fact that some people don't know what a V&V is should lead you to look elsewhere first then come back to it if you still can't find the problem.

I read through this really fast earlier today and didn't even notice your V&V is the two VSVs. Is your idle cycling up and down?