Using GM Igniters
 

Hey folks,
I was just watching a video of a guy rebuilding a 13B and he mentioned that you can use GM igniters in a first gen. In fact he said that it would give you .4 volts more power to the coil and result in a slightly hotter spark. The process is supposed to be quite easy, only a slight re-wire. The next result is that you can use a $15 igniter instead of a $150.

So, what have you heard?
Do you know how to do this?
Do you know the part number for the GM igniter to be used?

Thanks for your time!

You can use other ignitors but I don't think any of them will mount on the distributor so you need a heatsink of some sort. We used Bosch ignitors on a friends car and they worked well.

Great Revhead, can you tell me more about the need for a heatsink?

I have my 2 of the stock ignitors screwed into a piece of sheet aluminum that is in turn screwed into the inner fender. Actually it is a piece of a house 'for sale' sign. I drove out across the desert to Sevenstock in 100 degree heat for 5 hours and didnt have any ignitors overheat. The heat transferred into the fender was apparently enough.

they do work, and they saved me about $250Canadian ...... I used them after my tach.. then car went dead thanks to the stock one failing.

I dont know if its due to the GM unit .. but ever since having it put in the tach needle bounces between 900-1500RPM at idle when theres a heavy current draw (headlights, rear defroster, fan, driving lamps) all on.

It had no effect (negative or positive) on performance so the tach thing is more than liveable considering the money it saved.

I'd like to see a DLIDFS system that uses the GM HEI ignitors.

Here's what the HEI module looks like:

http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/a...s/tech_hei.gif

W - Connects to the positive lead at the distributor.
G - Connects to the negative lead at the distributor.
C - Connects to the negative side of the coil.
B - Connects to the positive side of the coil.


Does anyone know which mag pickup connector on the distributor is positive and which is negative? Knowing that bit of info and by following jeff20b's DLIDFIS wiring diagram it should be a snap to construct. Thoughts anyone?

GM HEI modules are known to be crap! Why put that in your car? I carry a spare in my GMC van cause they are a known POS!

I'm looking into those Bosch replacements and they seem pretty good.

Here's a pic of the Bosch module:
http://www.nardek.com.au/nard400.jpg
It's part number: 9-222-067-021, but good luck finding this in the states.

Wow. That's different from the one I'm looking at; it looks just like the stock one.

A Bosch ignitor that looks just like the Mazda one? Really? What's the part number?

06130

Can anyone please supply me with example cars for these ignitors? Year, Make, Model, and Engine size.

It makes it easier for me to order the parts.

I'd like to get a hold of some of each. The Bosch, because they have a reputable name brand, and the GM HEI because it's supposedly $20 each.

You should be able to get the HEI module at *any* auto parts store. That's the beauty of using that part. Ask for an “HEI ignition module for a ‘77 Corvette”.

The Bosch part #9-222-067-021 was used with success by REVHED but they appear to be for Australian cars only and I can't find a source here in the US. Not sure about the #06130. I can't find any reference to that.

I found it at Summit Racing, but it's really no bargain at almost $155 each :(

http://www.nardek.com.au/nard400.htm

What year Toyota Corolla were tehy used in?

What the hell is a Nissan BlueBird or a Mistubishi Magna / Sigma? I've never heard of the Holden/Commodore.

And what Ford product were they used in? On second thought, maybe it's not such a good Idea to use this ignitor...

Maybe finding the American equivalent of this Australian part would work.

Yeah, my thoughts exactly. I've done a lot of googling and can't find any good info about interchangability of ignitors. And the Bosch sites pretty much suck.

I'm also a little concerned about the HEI ignitors, I wonder if they can keep up with our high reving rotaries. These ignitors seem to be designed for low redline V8's. Just a thought......

That Australian site was the only one to come up on Google with my search terms. I have really stringent search terms because I dont want to weed through every site that has one little reference to one of my search terms...

I assume that an ignitor is just a really big power transistor, converting a low level signal (Magnetic distributor pickup) to a high level signal (+12 Volts to primary side of the coils). It shouldn't have any problem with the switching time difference.

I think there's only one of those modules on the cars they come on. Since boingers fire half their cylinders per rotation, thats 4 triggers per rotation on a V8. Hence, at 5000 RPM, that's 20000 triggers per minute. The rotary fires one time for each rotor face per rotation. (Leading OR Trailing ONLY) So that's 3 times per rotation. Hence at 5000 RPM, that's 15000 Triggers per minute... It's actually lower.

On a totally unrelated note, I knew exactly what the HEI ignitor was when I saw the picture... I just can't remember what the cars were that I saw them in. They're in everything that has a GM V8

The video that I saw with this idea used a part like the one inittab mentioned. I will try to watch the video again and see if I can find a part number.

I've been thinking, even if the GM igniters are considered crap (do they fail often?) at $20US/per igniter opposed to $300US/per igniter, I can buy alot of crappy fail-sooner GM modules. Actually the GM ones can both fail simutaneously 15 times before the price difference equals out. For my '80 with the igniters already installed on the strut tower, could I just mount them on aluminum plate in the same place? How much more difficult would it be to wire up DLFIDIFDLDES with these ignitors opposed to the stock setup ? Thanks in Advance.

George " Always looking for a cheaper solution to stock parts"

One of the reasons why I am so curious about the GM ignitors is because of the apparent ease of wiring for DLIDFIS. The little connector on the back of the stock ignitor is a PITA. I'm also not so convinced that they are that unreliable. Heat is what would most likely kill these things. Installing them on a good heat sink material with heat sink compound should be sufficient for reliable operation.

So,

what's the verdict ???

I put three GM HEI ignitors on a rotary powered B2000. If one fails, it'll be easy and cheap to replace. I'd say go for it.

Wow, I musta had too much coffee that day. :D For the price, go for it, just carry a spare module. :)

You can get bad aftermarket parts anytime you go to a cheep autoparts store. The gm igniters are no more prone to falure than any other igniter.

Persionaly I have seen more Toyota igniters go out than gm igniters. The Toyota ones are 120$ each and are straped to every toyota I have had to work with (minivan, 79 truck, 82 truck, 94 truck&4runner, mr2)

I have had alot of chevy v8 trucks (7) and have never had a problem with the HEI igniter. Most people who have problems with them seem to have had the problem with them in a single vehicle; leading me to beleave that there was something wrong with those vehicles causing the ignitor to go out time and time again.