Tune Up
 

Hey,

I am new to the scene so I'm wondering what brands of parts are recommended for a basic tune-up (you know, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires etc...). It's for an 85 GSL-SE. And if anyone has a price/availability on a carb for an older model I would be interested.

I forgot to mention, my RX recently flooded and since nobody in my area stocks NGK plugs I had to put Autolite (ouch!). This is my DD but now it seems to have less power and a rough idle. Any info would be great.

My oil pressure drops alot. Is this normal for the 13b?

Bienvenidos,

A good tune up may also include replacing the coolant hose underneath the oil filter and dipstick, it corrodes pretty quick with all the oil landing on it. Definitely get NGK's in there. Find a K&N air filter.

Also look for posts by longduck and gsl-seaddict. These guys know theri shit and always provide excellent information.

Here I am. :) Go for the NGK plugs for sure. I know that often they aren't stocked locally. You may want to order some with wires and whatever other parts you may need from mazdatrix, victoria british, or other supplier. You can get away with certain autolites. I do know of at least one person on here who lost his engine to a set of autolites. The tip of the plugs stuck too far into the engine and chipped the center of all of his apex seals. For wires, NGK are also good (they are pretty cheap too). You can also get Magnacore or Racing Beat, but they are more expensive (a lot of people seem to like the Magnacores, though).

I would do:
- NGK plugs
- NGK or Magnacore wires
- new fuel filter (you will have to get from mazdatrix, dealer, or similar ~$35)
- new cap
- new rotor

For the carb, I personally would stick with the EFI. The stock EFI can be a pain sometimes, but once you understand it, it isn't bad at all (it's a pretty simple system). The EFI will give you better drivability over a wider range of conditions. If you want carb, most guys like the Weber 48 sidedraft. It will take a bit of tuning to get it right. Expect the gas mileage to decrease. Some guys just prefer working on a carb compared to EFI.

Oil pressure: You should be at like 15-30psi at idle and about 60psi at 3,000+rpm. You can get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge if you think your readings are off. The sender on the stock gauge along with corrosion and such can decrease the accuracy of the readings over time.

Good luck. Let us know if you have any other questions.

Kent

Hey,

Welcome to the forum.

Your posts hurt my eyes. I fixed them for you. Here are a few friendly forum tips to help you get started

1. You don't have to capitalize the first letter of every word. Just the first word in a sentance
2. Of course, you can't tell where the first word in a sentance is if you don't use periods. They're your friends.

As for your questions: Autolite plugs = the devil. They've been responsible for at least two blown engines that I know of.

Use a wire brush to clean your old NGK plugs off and use a lighter to burn off any excess fuel. Wipe them on some shop towels and put them back in. That should have you back up and running with some good plugs until you can find a source to order NGK plugs. Worst case scenario if none of your local parts stores are willing to order them sparkplugs.com can ship them out to you.

Carb for a 13b? Check www.racingbeat.com, they should be able to hook you up with a Holley or Weber and a manifold. Not cheap, but if you like carbs (like I do) then it's a good idea.

Make sure you got your plug wires on right. That can always cause problems.
They're labeled "T1", "L1", "T2" and "L2"

T = trailing (or if that doesn't mean anything, you can think "top" plug)
L = leading (or if that doesn't mean anything, you can think "lower" plug)

1 and 2 mean which rotor. Rotor #1 is the one closest to the radiator, Rotor #2 is the one closest to the firewall.


When I buy a car or start working on a car whose condition and history I don't know, my first "Tune Up" is huge:

- Spark plugs (NGK BR8EQ-14), plug wires (NGK is good, Magnacor if you're racing or using aftermarket ECU), Dist Cap and Rotor (any will do)

- Fuel Filter (DO IT!), Air Filter (K&N is nice if you can afford it)
- Oil (10w30 non-synthetic) and filter (Purolator PUREONE PL14459, trust me)
- Transmission Fluid (RedLine MT-90, expensive but you only do it once every 5-10yrs anyway)
- Coolant flush (50/50 ethelyne glycol, safe for aluminum. I buy premix so that I know there won't be any deposits from hard water). Don't forget the thermostat and gasket (hold it in place with clear silicon.

- Rear Differential Fluid (75w90 synthetic gear oil)

- OMP Rebuild kit (from Lowe's Performance, do a search)

And run a few tanks of Fuel Injector cleaner (and if you have a gas station nearby that mixes 10% ethanol, that helps a little bit too)

Belts, don't forget your belts.

And a good car should be able to stop, so check your pads and rotors.

If you've got the time/money, you should definitely replace your battery cables. You'll be amazed at the difference in ease of cranking and charging. They don't sell kits, you have to make them yourselves, but they're easy. I've done 3 pairs so far. Use copper-core wire, much better than stock.

Of course this is a bit of overkill... but I'm an obsessive rotorite, and I love my car.

Have fun.

Jon

Thank you for your help. The carb is not to replace my f.i. it is for an earlier model that i might get for a couple of hundred. The owner says it keeps flooding so i figured it was a good buy. and i will work on my grammer ha ha. Also i am not sure what omp is.

Mop/omp is metering oil pump.

You should really use the factory parts...such as the cap, rotor,etc. Cuz i have heard of many problems with the aftermarket parts...such as they wear out faster or just plan out dont work...

Good point, this is especially important for buying a thermostat, GET NOTHING BUT A OEM THERMOSTAT!!! You will not regret it when it works!