Tie rod end replacement
Never messed with suspensions much and didn't find a whole lot in the search. Do I need any special tools to do these?
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You shouldn't. all you need are the right sized wrenches to take off the tie rod. just make sure you unscrew the actual arm and don't move the locating nut. Try to keep the nut in the exact location, or else it will knock off your alignment.
Other than that, just remove the cotter pin and the bolt that holds it on the shock and it should screw off. Also, PB Blast the hell out of it. |
Do the alignment..... Yes - in theory it should not change... However what if it was off to begin with...??
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I would replace both the inner and outer tie rod and the center adjuster also.
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Does anyone have a diagram? The Chilton's manual is kind of vague.
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You will need a puller or a pickle fork to remove the tie rods from the knuckle arm and centre link. I find using the fork much easier.
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Actually, easier way then with a removal tool is just by:
The new tie rods will come with a new nut and pin. So, for the existing ones take the pin out, undo the existing nut then thread it slightly back on, use a rubber hammer and hammer it out. That's it. They'll pop lose. However, as mentioned above the fork does work better then the puller. But I like the hammer deal better. Yes, do the inner and outer ones at the same time and go for an alignment. |
Originally Posted by PierceSA22
(Post 7837085)
Does anyone have a diagram? The Chilton's manual is kind of vague.
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I'm gonna have to disagree with you guys. I picked up a tie rod end puller from Autozone for 12 bucks. It worked almost perfect, it was so easy, popped those things right off.
On the other hand, I used a pickle fork when I did the tie rods on my BMW and it took all day. But if you really want to take a hammer to your suspension components, be my guest. Wait, where is Shelby NC? If you're nearby you could borrow that puller from me. |
Originally Posted by kmonto85
(Post 7837720)
Actually, easier way then with a removal tool is just by:
The new tie rods will come with a new nut and pin. So, for the existing ones take the pin out, undo the existing nut then thread it slightly back on, use a rubber hammer and hammer it out. That's it. They'll pop lose. However, as mentioned above the fork does work better then the puller. But I like the hammer deal better. Yes, do the inner and outer ones at the same time and go for an alignment. |
Originally Posted by ukcodger
(Post 7838426)
Guys, if I can suggest another trick that works..... you actually don't need a 'pickle fork' as you call them. Simply place a heavy weight behind the trackrod end (tie rod end)....a large hammer head is good. Then simply hit the other side of the track rod end with another hammer. Because the joint is tapered inside, the only way for the joint to transmit the energy from the hammer blow is to spring open the tapered track rod joint. The joint part is not damaged if you want to refit it later.
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everything worked out great. thanks for the tips
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hey im replacing my steerign rack and when i took my wheels off the bushing/boot on the tierod is all torn and i found some replacements but how do i remove and install them?
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First read the previous posts, they explain it somewhat. Second, if you don't know this, why are you trying to replace the gear? Tie rod ends are basic suspension parts. Usually cheap and easy to replace so don't just replace the boot, replace the whole part. If you can't figure it out from the above posts and just looking at it, you might want to leave it up to the professionals.
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