For Those That Have removed Their Fan Shrouds
 

What did you do with the overflow tank that sits on the side of it, and does the radiator not bolt to the fan shroud? I only ask because the "project 83" has a Black Magic fan on it so I dont need the stock shroud, and I want to take it of. I havent looked at how the radiator mounts yet, but I'm assuming it doesnt mount to the radiator shroud, right? If it does, how did you mount the radiator in your car, and also what did you do for the overflow tank?

~T.J.

Huh? I don't really get what you're saying. The plastic fan shroud simply bolts to the front of the radiator and the over-flow bottle bolts to the support panel beside the radiator. Please explain.

Haha, dont you feel like an idiot after you ask a question like this???:rofl: Ok, I was thinking of the big black metal thing as the shroud (where the radiator bolts up, and where the overflow thank is), not the little plastic thing thats on the radiator, which is the REAL shroud :doh:. I guess that's what I get for trying to think about my car as soon as I wake up :D. Ok Admin, please delete this thread to save me from further humiliation...lol

I plan on doing away with the black sheetmetal side supports and moving the radiator forwards. I'll mount it using aluminum angle stock that I got from ...Yup!- HOME DEPOT!!!!;)
I'll have the radiator, IC, and oil cooler all stuffed up there.

:confused: i dont know what you guys talking about:confused:

No no, you're supposed to be moving weight REARWARD, not FORWARD! :)

Next up: Peejay relocates his engine 6 inches back, film at 11 :)

hmmm..... i wonder if you can fit the engine in the storage bay compartments.... mid engined rotary!:p:

I've been thinking about just that... but it would require a lot of fabrication... shorten the front of the car between the firewall and the front wheels, lengthen the distance between the cabin and the rear wheels, stuff a rotary onto a VW (or maybe Subaru?) transaxle and put it in back there, relocate the gas tank to the underhood area.... :D :D :D Kinda like a Mazda Pantera.

If you move the radiator fwd, won't it take away form the air flow?

mid-engine rx7??! Yaaa!

Are you really planning on moving your engine back Peejay? Where are you taking up the 6 inches at? bellhousing, driveshaft,...?

later

it's just a thought :D But, I was thinking that the easiest way to put a Turbo transmission in would be to use an FC automatic driveshaft and pinion flange, and relocating the drivetrain rearward to suit. (You have to make a new tranny crossmember for the T2 trans anyway, might as well make two of them!) Dealing with the shifter placement is another matter altogether, but as they say "anything can be made to work" :D. Plus I'd be saving a huge chunk of change by not needing a custom driveshaft made (would cost more than the rest of the swap combined!) and it's always good to have wearable parts to be common instead of custom. And of course there are the benefits to be had from relocating the drivetrain rearwards...

It's all a thought excercise at this point, of course... but I know that I am not light on transmissions and I'd rather put something strong in there before I start having to walk home with THIS car.

It sounds like a very good idea. I like the thought of avoiding a custom driveshaft. I don't know what the cost is to cut one down and weld on a different end. Is that what is involved in installing a turbo tranny in a 1st gen?

Let us all know what you end up doing. I'd like to know what is involved in making a new crossmember as well.

What are the benefits of moving the engine rear ward??? I was told to do it to my 80, because I want better handling, so I was thinking of moving the firewall back about 4-8 inches, then do the same with the engine, and transmission. But I really dont understand why??? Traction maybe on take off??? handling??? THANKS

Better weight distribution. Rearward is better.

I don't think you will need to cut the firewall - just move the engine down as you move it back. This of course means the oil pan will foul on the crossmember and the center link, meaning you will need to make a custom oil pan too, as well as a new oil pickup tube inside the pan.

I want to do that myself, too. :) Still a lot nicer than nearly $500 for a driveshaft!

peejay.. you are a lunatic

:) Man you either have too much time on your hands or your truely crazy :D

It's just an oil pan... all ya gotta do is measure and mock it up with the engine in the car in its final position, weld one up from sheet stock (although will probably modify an existing pan for simplicity's sake), and then bolt the freshly-made pan to a front housing so a new pickup tube can be mocked-up, modified/adapted/welded up, test-fitted, etc.

Lots less trouble than paying someone else perfectly good money for a driveshaft :)

That's alot for nothing..

huh, just down, and back eh???? I might as well do that :) I can make an oil pan, no sweat. And I dont think a pickup tube will be too hard.
stupid question::: Is there a transmission, that is the kind you dont have a clutch, and there is like levers, or buttons to shift. Kinda like a electronic shift on shome motor cylces. I think Formula one cars has them too. dunno.
I think that would be an awesome transmission :)
WELL< THANX LATERZ< Andrew

Sequential (sp?) shifter. Doesn't seem to be too hard to implement in a motorcycle, but everyone I've asked seems to think it costs a bundle to get implemented in a car.

No no no! Move the engine more towards the front - better burnouts!! :)

Moving the engine down might not work without cutting and sectioning the crossmember, now that I think of it more. However moving the engine back will cause the pan to foul on the center link no matter what.

Thats why you make you car have the old ford rack and pinion :) It should work then right??? Then make a custom cross member :) THANX LATERZ Andrew