temp gage help
 

so long story short the kid i got the car from installed a sunpro gage and i knwo its not sending the right readings. its hooked in to the top of the raditor. i for the point on the block were the stock gage hooks into i found the wire for the gage and test it out the stock gage is busted. i unhooked the sunpro gage and connected the wire to the stock point. the sunpro gage maxed out so i know the sender is working. is there after market temp gage that would work with the stock sender. ifso can u send me a link or tell me what ones will work i know its a noob question.

better yet ask someone on the forum to sell you a used guage cluster. Takes 10 mins if you know what you're doing to replace, more if you've never done it before.

I don't think you can use the stock sender with an aftermarket gauge. Gauges use a change in resistance as temperature changes. Senders go with gauges, so usually you can't intermix them.

You might want to just buy another aftermarket gauge. I recommend Autometer.

how do i know if the sender will go in to the block? i know the one thats installed in the car right now isn't reading right, i start the car and it goes to 210 right away.


sorry if i'am a pain just worried you know and don't want to blow my engine. i dont have enough money yet to put my old car back on the road right now if i blow the engine. down the road i mite get a new cluster when i decied to replace my dash ect.

Most of the senders today won't fit on the block since they are mostly standard thread. The pitch of most senders is 1/8 NPT. The stock sender thread is 1/8 BNPT so it won't fit exactly. You can tap it out to what you want, or you can put the sender in an other place. You can get an adapter and have it on the back of the water pump housing (where I have mine) or you can get an adapter for the outgoing radiator hose. It's up to you but these are the easy ways to do an aftermarket gauge.

the sun pro gage sender is in radiator. if your in the drivers seat its in the top left corner. the gage is def sending too hot of a signal. i start the car and its at 150 and in less then a min its at 210 ish. i know the car isnt running that hot i just dont want that problem.

if i got this right i would need to get a 1/8 NPT tap and just retap it. i work in a machine shop for a few years so i feel extremly dumb asking this. wount retaping it just mess up the hole and make it usless. if not how would i go about it. ie like worry about chips of metal getting in a place you dont want them.

about the adapter for the back of the water pump housing, where can i get it. and what gage did you use. don't mean to steal your setup.

No problem. I'll be happy to help anyway that I can.

You can use the hose adapter. You can find one of these on eBay if you want. $10-15 bucks, with shipping it was $19. ISCracing.net has them for $25.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...inished040.jpg

Or you can use a Sunpro metric adapter kit to go into the back of the water pump housing where the choke temp sensor goes.

http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16338

I ordered mine from Actron.com. It's a bit cheaper than Jegs.com

BSP

what is BSP ?

i feel like such a noob. iam so confused and its just a simple thing.

i hoped i could keep the sender where it is.

You're right. It's BSP, not BNPT. NPT is National Pipe Thread. I believe BSP is British???

iam so confused. i was talking to my buddy who iam building a 1984 rs turbo capri with and he said if i get one of those hose adapters i have to be care full cause it could slip off. if i place it in the back of the water pump housing like you did, my choke will stay on unless i push it in right? if so thats no big deal. would you mind explain what i need to go buy to do this, and take a picture of where it goes so i dont mess any thing up.

your other option is to remove the stock sending unit behind the water pump housing and tap it with a 3/8 pipe. Then you can use whatever bushing comes with your set. However, IMHO, sunpro is a junk as it will pick up additiional heat from teh engien bay as the t-coupler is not sealed like other brands.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/DSC04955.jpg

Mine looks just like what he's got, except I'm using electrical gauges.

i think ill go that route. so all this will do is make it so i have to push my choke in right? like i wount cause more problems. so what did oyou do with the wire you removed from there. can you guys tell me what a good gage is.