System checker '83 for SEs - is it possible to find one?
Curious to know if it is possible to find one of these? Tried googling it, but can't find a single thing on it. Would make it easier to narrow down problems, especially being a noob to first gens. I know you can rig up a TPS light to check simple codes that way, but it seems like it's not as thorough as manufacturer specific tools (as usual).
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
(Post 12351878)
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Do you have any pictures of the original unit? Are you leaking coolant from the o-rings on the lower intake?
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
(Post 12351983)
Do you have any pictures of the original unit? Are you leaking coolant from the o-rings on the lower intake?
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Good call on that. The SE does not have the coolant passages through the manifold. Sounds as if the gasket is failing and there is a leak at the gasket as you already know. I have never seen a lower intake gasket fail on an SE but it's possible. Vacuum leaks are common given the age of the car and can cause a rough idle and exhibit the same results if carb cleaner is sprayed near a vacuum leak. Its worth looking into before pulling the lower manifold as that can be a tough job an SE.
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+1. I have only ever seen two lower intake gaskets fail and both for same reason,reman engine installed and fasteners not properly tightened and worked themselves loose with heat/cool cycles.
One was an emissions test failure,the other was a random intermittent misfire. Much more common to find split or cracked vacuum hose as source of vacuum leak. Worth a more specific leak test before disassembly,would be unfortunate to tear down only to find gasket ok. If on disassembly you find loose hardware on lower manifold,good chance intake gasket is compromised. You can reach some but not all fasteners(air motors for 5th.6th ports in way). Worth your time to check to see if ones you can reach are tight,if they are gasket failure not as likely. Recheck for leak and focus on what is near where you spray carb cleaner. Engine vacuum/leaks can pull fumes from further than you might imagine. |
Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
(Post 12352108)
+1. I have only ever seen two lower intake gaskets fail and both for same reason,reman engine installed and fasteners not properly tightened and worked themselves loose with heat/cool cycles.
One was an emissions test failure,the other was a random intermittent misfire. Much more common to find split or cracked vacuum hose as source of vacuum leak. Worth a more specific leak test before disassembly,would be unfortunate to tear down only to find gasket ok. If on disassembly you find loose hardware on lower manifold,good chance intake gasket is compromised. You can reach some but not all fasteners(air motors for 5th.6th ports in way). Worth your time to check to see if ones you can reach are tight,if they are gasket failure not as likely. Recheck for leak and focus on what is near where you spray carb cleaner. Engine vacuum/leaks can pull fumes from further than you might imagine. I've been burned by an intake gasket on my Mustang before - oil fouled plug #2 and finally found a compromised gasket sucking oil galley fumes. Don't know when this motor was rebuilt last (my uncle said it was done sometime recently), but it's otherwise decently taken care of for having 250k miles. |
Well...since you know its been apart,possible something left loose.You can get to all lower intake fasteners except for two to check for hardware being tight/loose.Split/cracked vacuum hose at top of list of suspects. 250k miles,i'm sure it needs vac hoses renewed. You don't HAVE to use silicone hose,nice but expensive. Regular jobber vac line will work fine.
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Originally Posted by spedy7
(Post 12351868)
Curious to know if it is possible to find one of these? Tried googling it, but can't find a single thing on it. Would make it easier to narrow down problems, especially being a noob to first gens. I know you can rig up a TPS light to check simple codes that way, but it seems like it's not as thorough as manufacturer specific tools (as usual).
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^^^^This,it really is a primitive system. Originally found on European cars in early 80s,built on license from Bosch,all Japanese cars began using it,technology trickled down to motorcycles.
It is very dependable,always ignored reading codes,even when working in dealership,they only pointed to generic areas to check. Multimeter,oscilloscope,understanding how it worked was much faster diagnosing/repairing than troubleshooting trees in fsm. |
Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
(Post 12352496)
^^^^This,it really is a primitive system. Originally found on European cars in early 80s,built on license from Bosch,all Japanese cars began using it,technology trickled down to motorcycles.
It is very dependable,always ignored reading codes,even when working in dealership,they only pointed to generic areas to check. Multimeter,oscilloscope,understanding how it worked was much faster diagnosing/repairing than troubleshooting trees in fsm. |
Originally Posted by spedy7
(Post 12352773)
Well that's nice to know. I thought they were pretty primitive but wasn't sure. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't a problem I couldn't see but the ECU could.
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