Suspension & Body Roll
 

Hey guys,

I just put in my KYB GR-2 shocks in hopes of stopping the tire squeal. It did stop the tire squeal, but it significantly increased the body roll. One of the old shocks was seized, and very stiff, the other was ok. The ride is much smoother now, but on hard turn the body rolls much more. Would a strut bar help this? What should i do. I think my springs are pretty saggy, could i cut half a ring off?

thanks, Matt

new springs will do wonders for your body roll problem.

oh yea?


any recommendations?
racing beat is pretty cheap in comparison

Get a set of the suspension techniques sway bars. they are like $237. springs are good too, but both will make a huge difference. A pretty good way of reducing body role also.

CJG

Kyb's are pretty soft shocks. TOkico blues would have been a better choice performance wise for the street. At this point, either stiffer sway bars or springs is called for.

do you think sway bars, or springs would make the bigger difference.

how about strut bars? i hear good things about them.

while we are on the suspension subject, are konis a good brand? i heard from a friend of mine that they sqeal a lot. is this true? and are eibach springs better than racing beat? they seem to have a higher spring rate.

Strut bars - Good if you have body flex in the front end. We don't have McPherson's in the rear so I don't know of any stiffening accoss the beam except thicker anti-roll bars (anti-sway bar).

Eibachs - you name the spring rate and you can have it. I got mine from Ground Control. They have a partnership of sorts with Eibach and have RX-7 experts on hand to help with the specific sring rate you want for you driving/racing needs.

http://www.ground-control.com/gcrx7cat.htm

Anybody know if someone makes an adjustable set of anti-roll bars for our cars?

Springs are a gret idea. Anti roll bars however are not
needed you want some roll in the chassis or the Watts linkage will not work properly. Remove the rear bar under soft cornering you will feel a bit slow on reaction but under hard turn the rear will plant itself and firmly. This has been a huge improvement in my car. I learned about this trick form some local road racers running in multiple classes of SCCA. I have found that none of theses guys are running the rear bar. My wet weather traction was also greatly improved. Give it a try if you dont like it put the bar back on and you have lost nothing but a few minutes of your time...

Note: Just unhook one side and it will not function.

so should i just remove on of the endlinks on one of the sides of the rear sway bar and see how it plays.

i'll give it a shot.

i assume you have completely removed yours?

Let's start at the beginning: what do you use the car for?

- Daily driver
- Aggressive steet driving
- Autocross
- Track days
- Drifting

The means will depend upon the goal.

Yes mine is gone, just try one end till you decide.
Do you have upgrade wheels and tires 15x7's ?
I would not run this on a stock set of tires.

springs first then sway bar.

You're original post said that your springs were saggy so I say replace them with a good set first. I have the Eibach pro-kit springs and original sway bars and find that the body-roll is minimal. I also have a CPracing strut bar but I don't recommend it until you've at least replaced your shocks and springs first. You'll get more bang for your buck with new springs.

Found a rear strut bar. Surprise, surprise. Guess you can find anything you want if you're willing to look.

http://www.rotorhead.ca/detail.php?adid=25

That's the CP Racing Rear Bar...
They also make front bars both with and without firewall bracing.

i was told to change shocks before i go strut bar, Or Not?

Your shocks aren't too bad. Get some springs, then go for the strut bar.

who makes the 4 way adjustables... they came stock on mustang svo's?

Tokico makes the 5 way adjustables. We just got my friends tokico illuminas in last week. Very nice products.

CJG