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Great info, Sterling; thanks.
One question; when you refer to 'left' and 'right' bowls, that's when viewing from the fuel inlet side, yes? (I'm used to thinking "front" and "rear" bowls.) Looks like "rear" would be "right," based on your circuit descriptions. On the richer solenoid; even though my car's a manual, it has one - - part of the Cali-specific emissions on the '80. I will work my way through these, thanks. |
Yes, looking at the carb from the fuel rail assembly.
Yeah, I really haven't kept a tight record on the cores I get as far as what cars they came off. Usually I don't really know. I can't remember if all Ca Nikkis had them, or all 84-84 Nikkis or what. All I know is it's great when I get a core without one so I don't have to go through the extra bs of plugging it. |
so i brought this thread back because im still a little confused about my cars smoking situation.
i put in that lucas oil stabalizer about a month ago and it really helped with the cold starting smoke but now the smoke is on and off (when cold). There are days when i start it up in the morning and there is NO smoke, then there are other days when it just smokes like crazy. it gets embarrassing. I can understand if it smokes ALL THE TIME, meaning the seals are going out..but it doesnt. I put in 1oz of premix for every gallon. should i put in less?? |
Originally Posted by DivinDriver
(Post 9072079)
They are on the flat front and back 'sides' of the rotors, surrounding the e-shaft. They press against & slide on the faces of the side plates.
Carbed 80 12A 1. Restrictor is in place, blow-tested fine before install, and the little arrow that points to the carb is pointing at the carb. I actually have a brand-new-in-the-bag spare, and may break down and install it for testing purposes. 2. Don't got none. My carbon canister is in the lid of the air cleaner; entire bottom is open to the carb through a mesh screen, and the bowl and crankcase hookup tests as free-flowing. 3. Thing is, the bowls don't fill with gas after shutdown, they drain down (fuel level drops), over the course of an hour or two, rear bowl faster then the front. Which shouldn't be possible, considering the carb design - - should need vacuum to lift the fuel out of the bowl. Only way I can think of that this could happen, is for air pressure to build up within the bowls... but they are vented, supposedly. It's quite a puzzle. I'm thinking of jimmying the bowl vent solenoid to "force" it open all the time, and see if this makes a difference. It's possible the thingy is sticking, and not venting the bowls after shutdown like it should, but it's not "observable." |
Originally Posted by Rotarx7
(Post 9150500)
so i brought this thread back because im still a little confused about my cars smoking situation.
i put in that lucas oil stabalizer about a month ago and it really helped with the cold starting smoke but now the smoke is on and off (when cold). There are days when i start it up in the morning and there is NO smoke, then there are other days when it just smokes like crazy. it gets embarrassing. I can understand if it smokes ALL THE TIME, meaning the seals are going out..but it doesnt. I put in 1oz of premix for every gallon. should i put in less?? |
Ummmm.... whenever i've premixed 1oz/gallon it smoked at idle. That's what race cars use (or even less like 3.5oz/5 gallons) Isn't your Oil Metering Pump working?
Is the motor consuming oil? How often do you need to add a quart? And, I've added seafoam which did cause smoke while that tank was being burned. No cat converter. Usually just one bottle/tank. One time I added 2 bottles with 5 gallons of gas, man that thing smoked and smelled TERRIBLE. Couldn't wait to finish that tank. Had to drive with windows closed. But boy it scooted. |
i dont have the omp anymore, its blocked off. My plugs are fine. i changed them about a year ago
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What does the smoke smell like? Oil? Fuel? Coolant?
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