SE won't start - flooded?
#26
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So far, I've gotten my car to run only when spraying starting fluid in the intake. Once the fluid is gone, it dies. I know that there is spark, and I'm getting fuel to the engine bay, but I suspect that the injectors are not working. I've tried every method mentioned in the FAQ.
Does anyone have any ideas?
TIA.
Does anyone have any ideas?
TIA.
#29
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also, think about pump and filter. Also, ignition might not be strong enough. maybe your sparks are so weak that they will only ignite with starting fluid. When's the last time you did a tune up?
#32
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No, I haven't. My theory is that if it won't run after getting to over 4000 rpm on starting fluid, pushing it down the hill wouldn't be of much use. HOWEVER, I have considered pushing it off a cliff a few times...
#33
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Originally posted by conewvr
No, I haven't. My theory is that if it won't run after getting to over 4000 rpm on starting fluid, pushing it down the hill wouldn't be of much use. HOWEVER, I have considered pushing it off a cliff a few times...
No, I haven't. My theory is that if it won't run after getting to over 4000 rpm on starting fluid, pushing it down the hill wouldn't be of much use. HOWEVER, I have considered pushing it off a cliff a few times...
-Make sure that the blue spade connector is connected to the negative side of the trailing coil. You could try it on the leading side as well if your trailing ignition is not firing.
-Check fusible links. The top two. These provide power to the injectors and the computer. Make sure there is power on both sides of each link.
- Check the ground near the rats nest. There was someone having this same problem on the forum before and this was their problem. There are two black wires with a metal ring connected to them. They should be bolted to the engine near the set of solenoid on the drivers side of the engine.
-Check voltages on the ECU. The approximate voltages are shown in the FSM and the Haynes manual. You may have no power to the ECU of the injectors. Also, the ECU could be bad.
If all these check out, refer to the FSM chapter 4b, you can access the manual online at:
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/85_manual.html
If it comes down to it, I can show you how to check for error codes on the ECU. However, the SE ECU is fairly simplistic when it come to error codes, it only has 6 or 7 possilble codes. Let me know how it goes. You can PM me if you have any questions about this. I will try to help as much as I can.
Kent
#34
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Kent,
The car ran quite well when I got it four months ago. Since it is not my daily driver, it sat around without much use for the majority of the time. The last two times I drove it, it would not idle - meaning that it would die if I did not give it constant throttle input - and I finally parked it for a month before trying to start it again.
I am going to print off your response and give these a try. I'll print off that section of the manual as well.
Thanks.
The car ran quite well when I got it four months ago. Since it is not my daily driver, it sat around without much use for the majority of the time. The last two times I drove it, it would not idle - meaning that it would die if I did not give it constant throttle input - and I finally parked it for a month before trying to start it again.
I am going to print off your response and give these a try. I'll print off that section of the manual as well.
Thanks.
#35
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To verify that your fuel pump is running (or getting gas to the rail) you need to shunt the open connector next to the AFM. The AFM sends a signal to the ECU to turn the pump on. With this connector closed you will be able to hear the fuel pump running with just the key turned. Odd that after sitting its doing what its doing but you need to make sure your getting gas where it needs to be before (blue spade connector) worrying when it needs to be. It may be stuck (AFM) causing no gas to flow. Check it out...
#36
conewvr - have you read this page? http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html there's a lot of super-awesome info here...
your problems seem to be pointing to what is being covered in Troubleshooting Section #5.
i'd say move onto checking the FI system after you've verified you're actually getting fuel to the motor.
your problems seem to be pointing to what is being covered in Troubleshooting Section #5.
i'd say move onto checking the FI system after you've verified you're actually getting fuel to the motor.
Last edited by cpt_gloval; 03-04-04 at 01:57 PM.
#37
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Originally posted by cpt_gloval
conewvr - have you read this page? http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html there's a lot of super-awesome info here...
your problems seem to be pointing to what is being covered in Troubleshooting Section #5.
i'd say move onto checking the FI system after you've verified you're actually getting fuel to the motor.
conewvr - have you read this page? http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html there's a lot of super-awesome info here...
your problems seem to be pointing to what is being covered in Troubleshooting Section #5.
i'd say move onto checking the FI system after you've verified you're actually getting fuel to the motor.
#38
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This is what has been effective for me. Disable fuel pump, pull fuse, unplug it. Pinch off inbound fuel line with vise grips to stop all fuel flow. Pull plugs and turn over until no more fuel sprays out of plugs holes. Dry off plugs good. Make sure plugs are sparking. Re install plugs. Try to start with a fully charged battery.
#39
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This is what has been effective for me. Disable fuel pump, pull fuse, unplug it. Pinch off inbound fuel line with vise grips to stop all fuel flow. Pull plugs and turn over until no more fuel sprays out of plugs holes. Dry off plugs good. Make sure plugs are sparking. Re install plugs. Try to start with a fully charged battery.
#40
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This is what has been effective for me. Disable fuel pump, pull fuse, unplug it. Pinch off inbound fuel line with vise grips to stop all fuel flow. Pull plugs and turn over until no more fuel sprays out of plugs holes. Dry off plugs good. Make sure plugs are sparking. Re install plugs. Try to start with a fully charged battery.
#41
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This is what has been effective for me. Disable fuel pump, pull fuse, unplug it. Pinch off inbound fuel line with vise grips to stop all fuel flow. Pull plugs and turn over until no more fuel sprays out of plugs holes. Dry off plugs good. Make sure plugs are sparking. Re install plugs. Try to start with a fully charged battery.
#42
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Update 3/15/04: Finally got the car started...as I was being pushed up a hill while cranking on the engine in reverse (using the starter motor to power it out of my driveway) the car sputtered and acted like it wanted to start. I quickly depressed the clutch and gave it a little gas and it roared to life, blue smoke and all!! It smoked pretty bad at first then cleared on out. I drove the car around the block a few times then loaded it up on the trailer. The new owner was pleased to see his car running.
It is amazing to me that the car could be run on starter fluid and not start, but would run after being pushed. Guess I should have tried to push start the car (as was suggested) a week ago. Oh well.
Thanks to everyone for the help.
It is amazing to me that the car could be run on starter fluid and not start, but would run after being pushed. Guess I should have tried to push start the car (as was suggested) a week ago. Oh well.
Thanks to everyone for the help.
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