Sandblasting, wire brushing, Zinc phosphating, POR15'ing, Poly Bushing read end :D
 

I thought I'm a little behind on posting up pictures of what I'm working on (Also ran out of wire brush bits for my drilll) So i took some time to post up pictures of what I've been up to lately.

First I sent everything to be sandblasted (I got all those parts sandblasted for 50$CA from a truck shop place btw) I Still need to take the rear end apart to get all the sand out of it and give it a thorough cleaning.

Then I went and picked up a few wire brush bits to get it looking a little bit more like a polished look and even out the sand blasting a little more.

From there it's POR-15 time, degrease all the part, zinc phosphate them, then por-15 then topcoat. quite a long process but I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end.

The radiator piece and most of the engine pieces I think will get powdercoated (I'm tempted to just por-15 them too, the more I look at the finish of the POR-15 the more I actually would like to have it done to them well see how that goes though)

Anyhow enough talk here's the pictures


BTW (Anyone know if those rubber piece on the caliper braket are replacable? if so how)

more

even more

A couple of my car just because i'm on a picture roll lol

BTW ... anyone know where I can get poly bushing for control arms? I've been looking with no luck i don't know why.

energy supsension?

good job btw

Since you sandblasted, then skip the POR-15 and use a 2-part epoxy base coat with a single stage urethane topcoat on underneath parts. On exposed/showy parts, add a high build primer to smooth and fill the texture left from the blasting.

Since there is no rust, the POR-15 will not work as designed. The smaller parts can be powdercoated.

I believe ReSpeed has the lower control arm bushings.

On this page here.

http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/maz.html

The directions on the por 15 can say it works on sandblasted metal, I use it to seal up parts after sandblasting them and it seems to be working so far. Black dragon sells the bushings btw.

Then again, it won't take long for rust to re-appear if you don't coat the parts right away. When I did my rear end housing, it would be quite rusty the very next day after sandblasting a section. The brake pieces also rusted after a couple of days. So, the POR-15 can still be used.

Yes, the rubber boots in the caliper are replacable. Some caliper rebuild kits come with them...I've also seen them listed separately, but don't remember right off hand where.

Rich

Very true, rich, mine started rusting almost immediately it was so damp the day I blasted my rear housing. Look at the picture in this thread, his rear is already got rust on it again...

right, trochoid suggested painting after blasted so that rust could be avoided...

Umm that stuff has been sitting like that bare for about a week now with really no sign of rust on there (The rear end is basically the only exception), but i think that i would rather stick with the POR-15 to just incase there was rust on there and might add up later on. Cost wise its really not that bad neither.

Rich, would you think that my local caliper rebuilder might have them then. If so I might try to stop by there tomorrow and get him to change them for me. Shouldn't be that much.

Sam, if that's the case, then add water and help it rust more. The more rust, the better it will work. I know it sounds silly with all the work done cleaning it up, but it's true.

well the process that its done anyways is you degrease the part, then wash it with water, then you spray it with zinc phosphate and then rewash it, then you wait till it dries up ( I just use a heat gun to dry it up faster) then you POR-15 it. So it does get washed with water in a way

Yea, I agree. Mine was rusted pretty good, and it really came out looking good.

dj55b - It's hard telling if your caliper rebuilder would have the rubber bushings or not, but it would be worth a try. I think this is RockAuto's listing for them:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,1716

But it's hard to tell for sure without a picture...they used to have pictures of most parts...not sure why they don't anymore.

Rich

alright thanks Rich

I just checeked RESpeed and they have those rear bushings ... is the price really right on there though?its 9.99 for the front ones then its 58.99 for the rear ???

Just wanted to update this thread with more pictures. Finally had the sun come up with some good weather these past of couple of days. So i'm trying to make the most out of it. Here's more of painted parts.

So the parts are as follow:

Driveshaft (it was starting to get dark so sorry about the bad picture i'll take more)
Top Cowl piece of the radiator (finally i can put my tools without scratching it:D)
Back side of the dust cover painted
1/2 of the rear end housing painted
Rear Eibach springs (don't they look much better in silver :D)
Some of the bolts painted (No i don't have alot of time I just have a lot of patience)

nice man. my friend did some of thoose radiator shrouds w/ sandpaper, took forever. you going to paint them black afterwards? (probibly said you were, i only looked at the pictures)

I looked into this when I did my suspension work. If you are talking about the bushings in the control arms for the rear axle, then the advise I was given was to retain the factory rubber bushings there as that helps the bind under corning loads. Basically it allows more movement in the axle. I did replace the watt link bushings with poly, but left the stock ones in the control arms and it works great.

Nope this is the color they're staying , because the new engine bay will be black, so silver would give a nice contrast to that.

I believe that the correct thing is to leave the watts links and upper control arms stock. but there has been a couple of debates so i just choose to do it all poly

Looks good man. Keep us updated a after a few weeks go by with the rust thing. Nice and clean rear axle, haha.. Keep it up. Good job. Oh, what wheels are those??.... Never seen them before

ASA .. will be up for sale soon though

alright so some more little updates here on painting ... This paint really doesn't look as good in these pictures as in real life. You can't really see the mettalics in there or anything but meh.