SA ground wire with rats nest removal?
 

Hello does anybody have a picture of the Ground wires that is suppose to be there when you remove the rats nest on a SA? i was reading over the archived rats nest removal and it said there should be a ground wire under one of the 3 bolts but i cant find mine. My rats nest was already removed when i bought the car. it doesnt idle most of the time, takes forever to crank over and start, and is down on power so basically im trying to make sure EVERYTHING is working perfectly before i go rebuilding the motor

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1980-rats-removal-how-did-i-do-889771/

Check out my post.... You can see the ground in the secound pic. If you want a better one let me know. I have repleaced the small ring terminal with a larger one and mounted it to the block with a 12mm bolt

do u know were that wire comes from? im trying to get all of this straight right now i have all the nipples blocked off and a line going from the nipple on the filler neck to the top of the air filter im a little confused at what else needes to be done?

A wiring diagram would tell you that; downloadable from the stickied thread.

/\ +1 for finding where the ground goes.

This is basicaly what I did not sure how right or wrong it is. but it works.

The shopping list.
4 Feet 5/32 Vacuum hose
2 Feet 5/16 Vacuum hose
1 - 5/32 T-Fitting
1 - 5/16 T-Fitting
3 - 5/32 vacuum cap
1 - Universal Fitting (plastic piece that allows 2 different size ends)
1 - Ring terminal 16-14 gauge (replaces original ground) wait to buy will need to make sure a 12mm bolt that holds the rats nest rack will fit it.

1.Disconnect all hoses from rats nest and label them.
a.2 hoses from distributer
b.1 hose from crankcase
c.4 hoses from carburetor
d.2 hoses from coasting valve
e.1 hose throttle opener
f.3 hoses from carb hat
g.1 hose next to air vent solenoid valve (on carb)
h.1 hose at altitude compensator
i.1 hose on top of check valve

2.Remove the bolts
a.10mm that holds the Ventilation check valve (located on rats nest rack). The ground should be bolted here.
b.3 12mm bolts. 2 are located at the rats nest and on is located by the coasting valve securing the 4 grouped hoses running to the carb.

3.Disconnect the 3 connections from rats nest (orange, blue and white) and on electrical clip located at coasting valve. Pull the nest out carefully

4.Now that everything is out. Its time to re-run the hoses
a.Distributer
i.5/32 hose from trailing and leading cut to your liking. Place t-fitting between the leading and trailing and run 5/32 hose to second nipple on left of carb.
b.Venting crankcase
i.5/16 hose from crankcase running to 5/16 T-fitting the other 2 connections from t-fitting will rung to the nipple next to air vent solenoid valve on carb and charcoal canister.
c.Venting oil filler neck and gas tank vent line (using existing check valve)
i. the 3rd nipple located at the bottom of check valve. 5/32 hose to the two way adapter on the other side of adapter 5/16 hose to the bottom nipple next to automatic transmission (already capped)
ii.the nipple located on top of check valve run 5/32 hose to altitude compensator
d.Cap the 3 nipple left open and seal the two lines coming from bottom of carb hat. (I used tape for now). Not sure about throttle opener… I left uncapped for now

5. Cut the ring terminal from ground replace it with a larger one using a 12mm bolt that held the rats nest to the block secure to any of the threaded locations that are now open.

that actually really helped alot i still cant find were that ground comes from though i have no clue what the last owner did with it wiring diagrams helped me get rid of sum of the clutter though i started it for the first time in about 3 weeks and it is alot better then it was when i got it my secondaries still aren't opening though so i gotta be vacum leaking from sum were im waiting for my block off plate for the acv to come from racing beat, i gotta say though this car is wayy more fun to drive then the fc vert i use to have and the rx8

I believe it splices into the main ground wire on the harness around the shock tower. You could just run a new wired from the firewall to the engine housing like a 2nd gen.

well i grounded the motor out on the firewall and it still didnt help when my block off plates come if it still doesnt help im probably just gonna go for the rebuild and i drove a street ported fb today and now i really want that :)