Rebuilding isn't very hard or scary if you've got the place, time, and tools to do it. That said, considering all of the other stuff you'll have to do to get this car running, if you can skip having to pull the engine, disassemble, clean, and reassemble it that will save you a LOT of work. It will also help you in troubleshooting later because you won't be saying "It won't start, I wonder if I screwed something up in the rebuild".

If you're "still pretty new to anything mechanical related" (as you said above) I would go with trying to get it turning by hand with ATF or another penetrating lubricant first before undertaking an engine rebuild.

Jon

+1 You can get a hand pump from walmart for few bucks. It holds about 6oz and the oil pipe/tube is thin enough to fit in the spark plug hole.

Agreed-
adding what fluid (seafoam is esp good for de-carbing) you can thru the upper plug holes AND same on carb side by using a screwdriver/etc to hold open throttle flaps to get same down into THAT side of the motor - and then let it SIT a few days at least. You'll need to pour fluid into the FRONT AND BACK venturis as one feeds the front housing, the other, the rear. The spark-plug side will NOT hold much fluid as there isn't much space on that side.

Several have suggested putting a wrench to the front pulley/e-shaft 19mm nut at the front to rotate the engine. This is OK to rotate CLOCKWISE (if facing motor from front), but be very careful about rotation the OTHER way! (we all try to "rock" the motor back and forth with this) My understanding is if the motor is seized up a bit and you somehow manage to _loosen_ the 19mm nut, you run the very real danger of allowing the front e-shaft thrust-plate needle bearings to DROP (the nut holds them correctly in place), which will damage/destroy the motor once you run it. help me here guys.... this is what I have heard.

If/when you do get the motor UNseized, be generous about making sure there is additional oil added into the block so you don't DRY spin it, since there may not be much useful lube in the combustion chambers for the initial start/crank over. I dump 5-6 oz of oil into the carb mouth for my spring start-ups, pull the ignition wires off the coils and spin it a few to get everything lathered up in there.

Assume the fuel tank is badly gunked, esp if it sat with a partial fill. Bad old gas/residue plus condensation from the air space inside will have done the tank no favors. All the carb/fuel pump/filter cleaning/replacing will be for nought the first time you run the grungy gas out of the tank! pull the tank and get it chemically cleaned at a pro rad shop. I'd then buy a tank re-lining kit (liquid you pour in, slosh around to seal the tank's inner walls) such as the one POR15 makes. Then your good to go- oh, you'll need to buy a new OEM gas gauge SENDER gasket ($4) from Mazda prior to reinstalling the tank-

best of luck-!
Post some pics of your treasure and let us know how it goes. Lots of good help here-

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

I was checking my new battery today to see if everything works today. When I turn the key I hear a clicking noise and I smelt fuel, there's a hole in a line that goes to the Carb.Is that gas or something else?

can i hand crank the engine using the alternator bolt and what size is it?

no...turn the e-shaft....................

How do I do that with the engine still in the car?

Get a ratchet on the main pulley bolt, just remove the belt first to give you less resistance.

yes its gas. if you are new to this whole thing and have the time on your hands. then tear down the car. new gas tank,new fuel lines, rebuild the carb, new brake lines, new suspension, new brake master cylinder,new clutch cylinder, new motor. its a old car better to replace everything new then piece it together as everything else starts to fail or break. it will save you tons of time and money in the long run. and headaches. trust me!

i doubt you need anything new, if its true that it has less then 50k on it, you just need to tear the engine down and clean it up.. head to the regional section and find someone that lives close to you to come and help you out possibly find the main cause of it not starting

If I don't get this engine running ill probably throw my 13brew in

deal with the problem in hand. or you will trade one problem for the next.learn how to deal with it. there's no way around it ....you have to work

I finally have the engine turning

You really are doing a disservice to this engine by not tearing it down... to find a 12a with that kind of mileage on it is IMPOSSIBLE. You are running a very real chance of damaging then internals, and you will not find any replacement parts this kind of condition.. All of these other guys that are telling you to spray this or that in it have all done so with an engine that surely has well more than double the mileage of yours, who cares if the damage a rotor housing??

At the top of the 1st gen section is a sticky to download the Field Service Manual (FSM) for your car. There are detailed instructions on how to disassemble and re-assemble your engine. A soft kit can be bought from Atkins for around $115, JUST BUY A 12a gasket kit. If you really want to go all out them you can buy a rotor kit too which will have the oil control O-rings and front and rear seal.... etc. All said and done you're $500 in and will have a great running engine for years to come.

+1, seriously listen to this guy, you have a rare chance to have a pristine engine, mind you it's gunked up right now, having an engine that old run like new is probably almost every 1st gen owners wet dream. Do yourself a favor, do not turn that engine anymore and get to taking it out. Having that gunk in there and turning it will do damage to it. It'd be like putting a bit of sand into a piston engine while it's running. While not that dire, the consequences are similar.

Well I didn't know it was rare I just got into rotarys when I bought my first car in may. I probably will just do a rebuild on it. I know the compression was still good when the lady stopped driving it over 110 I think. Is there a really good rebuild kit with upgraded parts like super seals?

There are lots of options for you out there.... personally I would never put superseals in a 12a that is not being used for all out racing as they are notorious for eating housings, and 12a housings that are in decent shape are getting harder and harder to come by.

Step one would be to pull the engine and tear it down... Bag and Tag everything for easy re-assembly. And then start the visual inspection of parts... anything that passes the visual inspection needs to be measured. Afterwards you will have a good idea of what's re-useable and what needs to be replaced. I've always had good results with Atkins kits, I'll be using their Cryo Seals on my 12a blowthrough turbo build. But everyone has there own opinions as to whose seals are the best.

I like atkins, because there prices are fair and they make it pretty simple to order everything you need by using one of their kits, which means less chance of forgetting to order something.

Would also be a good time to decide if you want to port her..... cheaper to do it now than to tear it down again... ;)

The cyro seals sound good what exactly are they? im thinking i will keep it stock port unless i can keep the gas mileage the same as stock. Here are some pictures of the car she isnt in the best condition but im basically going to do a restoration on it.

Is there any lightweight body parts for this car like carbon fiber? the stock hood is really heavy

Car looks great.... helluva find for an SA..... head over to atkin's website.... www.atkinsrotary.com to check out all the info on their rebuild kits.

Like I said.... tear the engine down and inspect it first, you may be able to re-use your apex seals.

As for porting.... you're driving the wrong car if you want gas mileage... ;) But if you want, you could do a large streetport on the secondaries and keep the primaries stock.... if you run the stock nikki carb then you can have stock mileage when cruising and run like a scalded dog when you lay into it....

But you're kinda putting the cart before the horse.... start the tear down and then decide which direction you want to go.

Dude I love those wheels! And the mud flaps!!!! If you decide to part with the flaps let me know.

are my rims stock they are cragars?

i might get rid of the mudflaps if i buy the urethane ones

i had a rotary guy come take a look at the engine he checked and it actually isnt carbon locked. he said it freely moves and the apex seals are good, they spring freely. But there is a new problem that happened after he left, i had my new battery hooked up all night and when i turn the key it makes a click noise. on the dash a light that says brake,add coolant,add engine oil and gen stay on. The amp meter turns off when i turn the key also. What could this be now?

Ok, it sounds like you left your new battery hooked up all night and then in the morning you tried turning it over. That clicking noise is your starter not getting enough power because your new battery was drained, which means you have an electrical problem, probably a relay that isn't turning off the circuit that connects your battery to everything when your alternator is running. At least that is what it could be, but I'm not sure. Anybody else have comments on this.

Anyways your going to need to give you new battery a charge. Trickle charging is best if I recall correctly.