rough idling and stalling
 

so i have done my best to read around for anything related to my topic, but i still can not quite figure out the solution.

so the problem:

car starts fine (new battery with 745 cold cranking amps).
with the choke pulled all the way out it idles fine at 1500ish, where should it be?
once it gets warmed up and the choke pulls itself in, it will not idle i have to keep my foot on the gas. i try to let it off slowly but it goes lower and lower until it stalls.

anybody have some advice, i love this car and she needs to be driven.

i got a DIRTY deal on this 7. i should of done time for it.

thanks guys.

Mine's usually a fair bit higher. Somewhere between 2500-3k if pulled all the way.


Using the gas pedal, can you hold it at or below 1000RPM (and keep it running at a constant rpm)? If so, there's an idle speed screw on the carb near where all the cables go in towards the back. Whoever had the car before you might have turned it out all the way for some reason. Just turn it in a bit at a time until it holds the throttle open enough for it to idle on it's own, preferably staying below 1k rpm.

i have one of the manuals and it said the same, when i looked where the diagram showed (driver side of the carb) i found only 1 screw (had spring on it). the book said there should be two, one capped and one showing.

is this the correct screw? i turned it in a bit thinking it was but did not notice anything, so rather than mess something up i returned it to its previous position.

yes i can keep my foot on the gas and have it idle fine.

If it's the screw towards the middle of the carb (when viewing from the driver's side), kinda angled up... it's the wrong screw.

You're looking for the one farther to the right (again viewed from driver's side). It's kinda buried under a few things and can be tough to see although it's fairly easy to get a screwdriver on it once you've located it. It's horizontal - not angled at all. Turning it in (clockwise) will open the throttle plates and raise the idle speed.

AHA!!! That must be the problem, ill try it out tomorrow after work.

thanks for the help, ill report back with the results.

Whats the ambient temperature when you've tried this? If its cold and you're driving at a reasonable speed, the carb will ice up and act like you've described. Run it for a several mins with your foot on the throttle so it doesn't die, with the car not moving, and see if it will idle.

Check this hose very carefully before you start turning the mixture and idle screws.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/hose-question-750125/

checked that hose, its fine and looks new.

found two hoses that are going to nothing? did they go to the cat? the original owner put after market exhaust and took off the cat.

still cant find that damn screw, im going to go snap some pics to see if that helps locate things.

The free running hose that i believe went to the cat. should these be plugged?
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/de3a813a.jpg

Driver side
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/cc4c7034.jpg

The screw i mentioned.
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/1a710a34.jpg

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/8e810e04.jpg
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/b803180b.jpg

i know that when i do locate the adjustment screw i will feel like an idiot, it seems like it should be so obvious.

so with further reading in the manual, apparently 84-85 models did not use the idle adjustment fuel and air screws. they used a throttle adjustment screw, and it is saying something about a richer solenoid needing unplugged while checking idle.

Can't tell what the hoses are for sure, but it looks like they were to the cat and air cleaner. Can you take a wider view of that side of the engine compartment? Is your air pump belt still hooked up? Is there a block off plate on the intake manifold on that side of the car?

Idle adjust screw is definitely not obvious. It is well hidden below the accelerator pump. A small flashlight is helpful to see it. A long screw driver is needed to adjust it.

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Carb manual is here.
http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...01979-1985.pdf

or here
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/ma...01979-1985.pdf

More carb pictures here. http://intertron.com/ron/images/carb.html


http://intertron.com/ron/images/carb/c13.jpg

http://intertron.com/ron/images/carb/c10.jpg

http://intertron.com/ron/images/carb/c6.jpg

http://intertron.com/ron/images/carb/c11.jpg

the air pump is not hooked up. ill take a few more pictures when i get home this afternoon.

i pulled all the hoses from the air intake and they seemed fairly new and fit tight to their fittings.

great news, got it idling extremely well. its around 1100-1200 staying pretty solid with little fluctuation.

next issue, had a squeal develop for a short time. (this same squeal would occasionally happen before but only on start up until the first rev and it would go away.)
so it started squealing and when i was about ready to pull over it stopped and didnt make a sound the whole way back home.

would this be a timing issue?

Does it sound like a belt squeal? If you have removed the air pump, the belt is really hard to keep from slipping. You can tighten the piss out of it like I do, but you also have to replace it more often. A good replacement is a dual pulley system for the alternator. I think someone sells a kit for like fifty bucks, belts included.

ill get to looking at that. thanks for the info.

you guys are a big help.

so i went out to grab the pulley off the altennator so that i could make a dual one (im a machinist) and lookie what i saw:

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/b870f416.jpg

:)



i get more and more pleased with this buy every time i look at the car, im always finding something new.

Killer. I've never seen something like that. Glad it worked out for you.