Rotary Aviation Oil Injection Pump - Show me your setup
 

I just purchased the Rotary Aviation Oil Injection Pump and would like to see what others have done for the oil can. I contacted them asking about the barb size. they said it was 1/8 NPT. I'll be converting the barb connection to a 4AN fitting and running braided hose from the oil tank to the new injection pump.

I've looked at several catch cans on ebay but haven't decided which one to get. I want an aluminum one. Any of them will need to be modified. The folks at Rotary Aviation also told me the can needs to be vented. I was thinking of just using an old Sea Foam can by adding a 4AN fitting on the bottom and a small vent filter on top. The only thing is I need to find a 4AN fitting that will seal good on the bottom of the can.

I did find this thread. Looks nice.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...nstall-809207/

I have made my own adapters and I plan on converting over pretty soon. I have a gsl-se, and I leaves me absolutely no extra room in the engine bay. I am actually planning on using my washer fluid container. I am gonna make a tiny washer container I can hide somewhere so I don't loose that function, I will just have less water and the container may have to be in a hard to get to spot.

I'm choosing to do this so that I can retain an oem look, have sufficient oil storage, and because hell... it seems like my only option with out removing the washer bottle completely.

I use a motorcycle 2stroke reservoir a friend of mine gave me. Washer fluid reservoir will deteriorate over time, it even deteriorates when using washer fluid in them.

Im using a washer reservoir.

It was temporary when I installed it, figured it would crap out but it hasn't. Been using it for over two years with nary a problem. I still want something that I can put a level sensor in, however.

I'm running a cheap aftermarket stainless tank I found on Ebay. IIRC, it was designed for oil injection, but I'd design it differently if it were me.

I ordered a cheap eBay aluminum catch can. I really don't like it but we'll see when it gets here. It was only $17. What I really want is a aluminum tank with 4AN fittings and a level sensor I can wire up a light on the dash.

To sorta-kinda hijack this threat (sorry) - I'd be curious as to how many miles folks have on their engines running this setup.

I have about 20 thousand on mine.

It has to be an improvement over the stock set-up.
It has to be better for the engine to burn 2 cycle oil (which is designed to do just that) over 4 cycle oil, which is not.

Carbon buildup is the rotary's biggest enemy.

2-cents

Just got my pump in the mail today. What brand/type of 2 cycle oil do you run?

I became frustrated trying to educate myself about what oil would be best. Lots of opinions out there, few variable facts, so I finally just ordered a case of the Idemitsu premix from Mazdatrix.
I figured if its made to premix into the rotary it has to be appropriate.

However I wouldnt have a problem using any quality 2 cycle oil.

I will not really know how happy I am until I have to disassemble this engine and get to see how much carbon buildup is in it. I hope that doesent happen for a long while.

I also run Idemitsu from Mazdatrix. Bought a case, gave a few bottles away, and it should still last me at least 10 more years at my going rate, haha.

Do you guys continue to do regular oil changes?

I was hoping to do a few flushes, add a new K&N filter, and extend my oil changes to 10k or more.

Yes.

To me, that sounds like a horrible idea. To each their own though.

Explain to me why? At this point the oil is never coming near flash point temps. It is only being circulated through passages and the oil cooler. I would imagine you would have no carbon build up in the standard oil system. I would look at it like a seperate sealed system.

The problem is that the oil sump is not a "sealed" system. It is exposed to blowby gasses which carry the contaniments associated with combustion. This includes moisture, ash, etc, all of which breakdown the oil in the oil pan and limit its life.

The OMP mod does nothing to change this, it only changes what kind of oil is injected into the intake system to lubricate the apex seals, side seals and oil rings / intermediate housings.

Oil changes will be needed just as often as before.

You will notice less crank case oil consumption however.

This pretty much summed it up.

Noted. :icon_tup: