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-   -   Roll Painted My 7 (https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/roll-painted-my-7-a-755860/)

Mr.Chewbacca 05-13-08 05:47 PM

Roll Painted My 7
 
I used the many pages of the mopar thread and our own

i did 8 coats got really lazy on wetsanding so its not perfectkly smooth
but im happy with result, ( yoy should have seen it before[sorry no before afgter pics]) took about 2 weeks because i worked too much but great drying time
i spent a total of 150 for all supplies but basic stuff should cost you no greater than
50 bucks. i used rustoleum prfessional "hunter green"

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/6282/1003211zd8.jpg
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/1634/1003212xr1.jpg
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/2180/1003214of8.jpg

TheRX7Project 05-13-08 06:05 PM

Someone please comment. Please.

Did you consider spray painting it or popping out the dent? I gotta admit for a roller job it looks pretty decent... but that's kinda like saying "she's the hottest girl at fat camp".

aberd 05-13-08 06:08 PM

reminds me of an old mgb or triumph now.

shahee1 05-13-08 06:10 PM

I'd do it for $50 ... I have a guinea pig named starlet that would love to see a roll job ...

jshiz 05-13-08 06:21 PM

looks decent. you should of popped the dents out though.

Viking War Hammer 05-13-08 06:27 PM

looks like it's huntin season

Mr.Chewbacca 05-13-08 06:36 PM

that dent i gave up on i was gonna bondo but figured it was way too deep
damn quarter size hole that i was trying to pop it out tyhroug the inside

Sgt Fox 05-13-08 06:42 PM

Looks pretty good actually.

skyler 05-13-08 07:00 PM

damn that didnt come out have bad nice work

Kentetsu 05-13-08 07:31 PM

I like it. Get a good buffing compound and work up a good sweat to bring out the shine.

Try the dry ice method to pop those dents out. Worth a shot. :)

blackdeath647 05-13-08 07:36 PM

that looks really good for it to be roll painted, i like it. brings back memories of my grandpa (rest in peace) brush painting his impala(s).

bliffle 05-13-08 08:54 PM

Looks good!

You can get a slide hammer at Harborfreight pretty cheap that makes dent pulling easier. The trick is to not pull it too far out, so that you can fill the slight depressions and you don't touch the underlying metal.

You might also try the "Ding King" which works OK for some dents. Some guys have used a suction cup with some success, but by the time you spend all the time on either of those two methods you might as well have surrendered a slidehammer hole since you'll end up filling anyhow.

You can still do it. Then apply a couple of final coats and you're home free.

The Hunter Green isn't an original color, but that's OK. Looks like "BRG" (British Racing Green).

Actually, the underlying bodywork is the easist since it is tedious and time-consuming to rub-out the finish.

bliffle 05-13-08 09:04 PM

I've leveled out bondo areas (and Real Lead before that!) with block sanding and with a 1/4 sheet palm sander, but then I picked up a 1/3 sheet sander pretty cheap somewhere and it is MUCH better than the 1/4 sheet sander, even tho it seems like it wouldn't be that much better.

Pull out those dents, man, and roll a little more of that BRG on and you'll have old Brit car fans lining up around the block to gawk at it.

lovehate 05-13-08 09:22 PM


Originally Posted by Mr.Chewbacca (Post 8187836)
I used the many pages of the mopar thread and our own

i did 8 coats got really lazy on wetsanding so its not perfectkly smooth
but im happy with result, ( yoy should have seen it before[sorry no before afgter pics]) took about 2 weeks because i worked too much but great drying time
i spent a total of 150 for all supplies but basic stuff should cost you no greater than
50 bucks. i used rustoleum prfessional "hunter green"

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/6282/1003211zd8.jpg
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/1634/1003212xr1.jpg
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/2180/1003214of8.jpg

you probably should have fixed that crater in your rear quater panel before you wasted money on paint.
looks decent but nothing to brag about

ultrasonoro 05-13-08 09:32 PM

At least now your paint matches your air freshener.

andrewmnewton 05-13-08 09:41 PM

the paint job itself is great. It dosn't look like she just rolled off the lot but it is new paint.. make it what you will don't worry what other people think.

blackdeath647 05-13-08 09:46 PM


Originally Posted by lovehate (Post 8188677)
you probably should have fixed that crater in your rear quater panel before you wasted money on paint.
looks decent but nothing to brag about

I would brag about it if it turned out that good after i roller painted it, com'on man, he did a good job, yeah he should have gotten rid of that dent but oh well it looks great.

jerd_hambone 05-13-08 10:02 PM

The rustoleum paint lays down pretty nicely with a roller or a gun. Alot of mopar guys have had amazing results using that paint.

I painted my S10 flat black with rustoleum. It's a tough paint, and it prevents rust really well haha.

Looks great though, some wet sanding and buffing will make it look like a much more expensive paint job.

axle 05-13-08 11:35 PM

looks good you did it your self instead of paying some one else so its more personal good job and lets face it you didn't make yours look like everybody Else's thats one thing that bugs me about people building cars they should be an extension of you not the same thing that somebody else has done

Keeble 05-13-08 11:59 PM

lol i painted my mazda with royal blue rustoleum, i sprayed mine on though. didn't even use a quart of paint

dbragg 05-14-08 12:05 AM

5 Attachment(s)
i rolled my old 85 GSL. it was right after a major surgery so i wasnt really up to doing much. esspecially A LOT of sanding in the sun. i got lazy and started laying the coats on too thick. i didnt care. i just wanted a good 20 ft look. i used polyurethane boat paint. its GREAT paint and strong as crap, even after a speeding truck smashed it.

after doing it once, i wouldnt do it again. too much trouble. i LOVED the paint, but id spray it next time.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/DSC02158.jpg

Mr.Chewbacca 05-14-08 01:41 AM

^^^^^
oooooh thats rough dude, its eye is poped out lol


Thanks to all interested and who comented

and YES i really wanted to pop that crater but i tried most things with no success, i tried the " Dent King" it worked for one other dent on the same side of crater but on fender, then i tried poppoing it out from the inside but extremelyh dificult to acces area through quarter size hole.

I had a really bout 1/6 in deep 12" long rusted scratch on right fender but bondoed that as well as other scratch similar to that on front fender area and ik also had multiple rust holes on the hatch thing , i bondoed it all and only primed bondoed areas

pretty much if i would do it again i would also sray it on next time
VERY time consuming. ALOT of elbow grease needed

once again thanks to all haters and lovers alike
peace

82transam 05-14-08 08:39 AM

Looks good for a roller job thats for sure, I prefer to spray my paint jobs, but to each their own. The green looks kinda cool on there, as others said, very "british"

Retro Racer 05-14-08 08:31 PM

Looks like it'd cut back to a good shine if you decided too... The dent can always be pulled and touched up later too :)

Jimbo II 05-14-08 11:21 PM

That blues nice^ :)

Good on ya for paintin your sev urself man! Would of been nice for some before photos though, nevermind. :)

grandgarson 05-15-08 01:57 AM


Originally Posted by Mr.Chewbacca (Post 8188001)
that dent i gave up on i was gonna bondo but figured it was way too deep
damn quarter size hole that i was trying to pop it out tyhroug the inside

Yea, I agree. Way to deep for bondo, but wouldn't be too hard to clean up with some fiberglass. Just use something to cover the body a little bit behind the dent so you can get the basic shape of the car (you can get professional mold wax, or use some vasoline or tape a sheet of plastic to it). Then use a piece of fiberglass cloth or mat a little bit bigger than the dent and use the part of the car that you covered as a mold and make a small fiberglass panel. Then once it's hardened trim it so that it fits into the dent (I recommend trimming it a little smaller so that it goes into the dent about 1/8" so that you will have some strength and leaves you room for sanding). Then sand down to the bare metal anywhere the fiberglass will be and about a 1/2" past the dent. Use some of the resin to secure the panel in place, then layer it up with fiberglass mat or cloth till you have it just past the surface of the car and then sand smooth. Once that's done you're to the point where I think is the only time to use bondo, and that is to fill in tiny air bubbles that you may have in the fiberglass.

Keep in mind that when fiberglass resin is setting up it creates heat and may melt plastic if it's thin enough. I've used saran wrap before to cast a mold of a plastic vent from a Mazda pickup and it's a good thing I wasn't going to be using the vent since it almost fused the saran wrap to the vent. If you use a sheet of plastic I recommend testing it with a little bit of resin first to see how it will react to the curing process. Also, be sure to cover below the part you are using as a mold since the resin will run on the side of a car, and be sure to place something on the ground under the car there as well to catch any resin that drips off.

Paradox 05-15-08 02:24 AM

looking good, i've always wanted to try a roll on job myself, infact i already purchased the paint.

Mr.Chewbacca 05-15-08 02:38 AM


Originally Posted by grandgarson (Post 8192977)
Yea, I agree. Way to deep for bondo, but wouldn't be too hard to clean up with some fiberglass. Just use something to cover the body a little bit behind the dent so you can get the basic shape of the car (you can get professional mold wax, or use some vasoline or tape a sheet of plastic to it). Then use a piece of fiberglass cloth or mat a little bit bigger than the dent and use the part of the car that you covered as a mold and make a small fiberglass panel. Then once it's hardened trim it so that it fits into the dent (I recommend trimming it a little smaller so that it goes into the dent about 1/8" so that you will have some strength and leaves you room for sanding). Then sand down to the bare metal anywhere the fiberglass will be and about a 1/2" past the dent. Use some of the resin to secure the panel in place, then layer it up with fiberglass mat or cloth till you have it just past the surface of the car and then sand smooth. Once that's done you're to the point where I think is the only time to use bondo, and that is to fill in tiny air bubbles that you may have in the fiberglass.

Keep in mind that when fiberglass resin is setting up it creates heat and may melt plastic if it's thin enough. I've used saran wrap before to cast a mold of a plastic vent from a Mazda pickup and it's a good thing I wasn't going to be using the vent since it almost fused the saran wrap to the vent. If you use a sheet of plastic I recommend testing it with a little bit of resin first to see how it will react to the curing process. Also, be sure to cover below the part you are using as a mold since the resin will run on the side of a car, and be sure to place something on the ground under the car there as well to catch any resin that drips off.



wow, very informative
thanks dude ill do some more reserch


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