Removing sensors and more from stock nikki
 

I've been searching around for a few hours and i noticed ppl keep on using the stock nikki but with less sensors and stuff on it. For example those 3 sensors that are seating on top of the rotor housing, the tube from thermal reactor, and many other parts.. are all these for emissions? if so what cons and props we get if we take them out?? i would like to make her more all motor look.. let me know any ideas will be welcome thx! :icon_tup:

"rats nest removal" in the FAQ's

Good idea to check through the manual, with a bit of reading you should be able to figure out what all the bits and pieces do. I couldn't follow many of the tutorials as the setups were different to my s1. Basically you can remove it all with no side effects in my experience, if you're still running the thermal reactor then can fit some extractors for better performance.

If you want detailed advice post up some pics, I'd wager your setup is similar to my 78 model so I might be able to help you there.

Thx for replies guys..i'm going now to check on FAQS. Hey onerio what's your experience with your 78.. have any pics? tell me a little about what you did. thx!

https://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6919/img0131zk.jpg

https://img22.imageshack.us/img22/4431/img0132ee.jpg

Rat's nest is gone, along with the idle switch and two solenoids from the right side of the carb (I kept the third, the power valve solenoid, to experiment with later on). Not running a choke at all, i can get away with it in this climate. Hot start assist setup is gone as well. Basically just kept the vac advance on the dizzy, and crankcase/fuel tank vent lines, going into the base of the carb on the left side.

As for what you can't see, I pulled off the ECU as it's now useless, and all the relays in the engine bay were removed. When I bought the car it had extractors, so no thermal reactor. Also removed the air pump and air control valve from the intake manifold, the holes were already blanked off with plates, there's also an opening on the rear side of the intake manifold that was blanked. Once all that stuff was gone i removed about half of the engine bay wiring.

If you need more detail just ask, that's a very brief description of what bit the dust.

There was a pretty good thread on stripping the carb and you can probably find it by searching the term "naked nikki".

Another good source is www.sterlingmetalworks.com Sterling put together a lot of info on these carbs, and is always willing to answer questions and help out fellow enthusiasts (even if he does sound a little grumpy sometimes). :)

Of course, the easiest way to get a fully stripped carb is to buy a Sterling carb. He strips them, bores them out, makes them flow at incredible rates, modifies them so that they are tuneable with replaceable jets and air bleeds, shines it up to make it pretty, and they cost just over 400 bucks for basically a brand new carb. I have been very happy with mine over the years. You can check out photos of these carbs on his site.



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Cool i will check that when i get home! how's your working with which port?? what are your HP gains?? Drop on MPG??

I run a stock port 12a (for classing reasons in SCCA autocross). There is a definite improvement in power, and driveability is very good if not better than stock. There is a reduction in mpg, but mostly due to the fact that I can't keep my foot out of the throttle (its just way too much fun to resist). :)