Removing front strut assembly...bolts stuck
 

I'm trying to get the shock tube assembly off so I can do my front shocks and springs and the two bolts holding the shock assembly to the control arm are STUCK. I've tried using a wrench with a hammer, two wrenches together, and a impact gun and they will not come loose...any ideas what to do? :scratch:

Also, when I took my caliper off, the inner brake pad just fell out...it's not supposed to do that right?

Anyone? I got the front one off but the rear one I cannot get my impact socket onto without hitting the LCA :wallbash:

Well after destroying a socket and rounding the corners off the bolt, I just torched it and wrenched it off.

Soaking them with PB Blaster or similar overnight, or freezing them with chiller gas, are also options for next time.

They collect water on top and rust in place.

was going to chime in and say pb blaster as well... but had to go to work so i never clicked "post"

I've been using copious amounts of PB :lol: Now the real problem is that my pass side wheel is siezed unto the hub. I've tried for hours to get it off...:(

wow... you're having lots of fun with this one. :D put your body against something then pull as hard as you can. leave the nuts on just barely so that the wheel doesn't come flying into your face or anything

another way... *not so safe* would be to loosen the nuts then lower the car onto the wheel. then lift it back up.

I took a piece of wood, in combination with a sledgehammer and pounded the everloving shit out of the inner and outer lip. After about 5 minutes of that with about 4 hours soaking in PB blaster it finally let loose. Now my next joy is that my brake caliper bolt is seized...200+lbs/ft from the impact wrench won't budge it. Its like everything on the passenger side is seized, it was the same with the rear, I don't get it.

maybe someone put some threadlocker on it?

not many impact guns get up to 200ft/lbs.. it also depends on how much psi you have of air.. but it should be taking those guys out quick

May they burn in hell.

I've got all but one out now, and its at a point where I can't use physical leverage because it is turning the entire hub if I do. :wallbash:

I told the car it was going to cash-for-clunkers if it didn't comply. Needless to say, the bolt is now out.

Anywho, does anyone know off hand which direction the 'notch' in the strut top plate is supposed to face?
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...en50/strut.jpg

The minor notch that's circled in red there.

About to put them back in the car...anyone know an answer to post 12?

Have you checked the appropriate FSM?

On the SA's it's an arrow, rather than a notch, and it pertains to alignment adjustments. The bolt pattern is asymmetrical - - gives four different possible settings.

I don't know the FB-specific settings myself, though.

Yeah I scowered for that arrow and couldn't find it :(

edit: I now see what its talking about

Finished!

minor concern...

Alright, according to this thread (LINK) to induce some negative camber you turn the arrows so they are facing the inner front bolt on the shock tower. I did that, but as the car sits, it looks more like positive camber. Is that correct that it only produces negative camber when the wheel is turned, I tried to see for myself but couldn't really tell.

One way to find out is to spin the strut top. You can spin it and see in which direction it's off-center. Otherwise, I would just measure. Put a ruler across two studs and measure how far it is to the center of the strut. Do that on all four sides. Take your two shortest dimensions and orient the strut top to place it in its rearmost innermost position.

Can't argue with numbers!

at this point i would just get it aligned