Rats nest help, quickly please?
 

I removed all the rats nest. I'm now on to hooking everything up without the new stuff. I have a few quetions. Sorry for the lack of proper terminology or 'newb' situations. :(

1) I dont use A/C. Do I still need to hookup my AC SOL? If not, how do I bypass that? If I cannot, I have NO IDEA where this 'throttle bumper' is - can someone explain where it's located?

2) Unfortunatly I've broken the 'purge valve'. Both the lines off the bottom broke clean off at the base and render it useless. Can I bypass this and be okay?

Here's what it's supposed to look like:
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5...easy8za.th.png

I'd like to eliminate the AC and purge valve like this:
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7...osed1jt.th.png

Can anyone verify that this setup will work? I'm down to this one as my daily drive while the bike is on consignment and the 'nice' car is in the shop. I have to work in the morning and need to have it running tonight. Thanks for the help guys. You've never let me down. :)

I don't know if it will work or not, but I like your drawings :) Reminds me of me.

EDIT: Not sure if this will be of any use, but it looks liek the purpose of the purge valve is to carry fumes from the gas tank to the intake manifold. That is out of the service manual that I'm sure you already have :) Sorry again.

I think the purge valve is a one way valve, not sure. If you wish, you can bypass the charcoal canister, you will get some fumes in the engine bay and may not pass emissions if needed. The ac parts can be removed and any open vacuum lines capped off.

Just the man I wanted to hear from. :) The Purge Valve does in fact appear to be one way. I can only 'blow' pressure through one direction... and I'm sure I wont be passing emissions anytime soon, so that's not an issue.

I tried 'my way'. The car will not idle at all. It runs rough and dies immediatly if I let off the gas. Maybe it's not a problem with bypassing the purge valve so much as having a vacuum leak somewhere?

Yepper, sounds like a vacuum leak.

Ok, simply cap the first vacuum port in the spacer. Forget about running a line from there to the "throtle bumper".

On the purge valve, well you don't need that working right now to be able to drive the car tomorrow, but eventually you wanna get a replacement like a pcv valve at an auto parts store. But don't worry about it at the moment.

You guys frieking rule. I ran the lines as instructed and checked once more for vacuum leaks. Turns out that the block off plate I made was too thin and warped a bit when I tightened it down. There was a LARGE vacuum leak there, but I couldnt see it becuase of the location.

I had a buddy keep the car idleing at 1500 while I looked, and it didnt even need to see it - the leak was so big that it was just as loud as the intake from the carb! I fixed that by cutting another plate and putting them back to back - so far so good! Thanks again fellas. Your handy to have around. :)

Overkill, but I use 1/4" aluminum for all my block off plates. No warping or distortion and they powdercoat nicely.

The "throttle bumper" (better known as a "throttle opener") is used to up your idle by about 200rpm when you turn the A/C on.

For some reason that I can't understand, *all* of our carbs have it, even the cars w/o A/C.

Take it off the carb, cap that port on the spacer.

For the purge valve thing, search the archive for "PCV" and you'll find threads on how to do a PCV Valve setup instead of the purge valve.

Jon

Timmy,

What instuctions did you use for removing all the emmissions stuff? The mazspeed instructions seem to have been down for quite some time.

Matt

I saved the Mazspeed instructions to my machine three weeks ago and read it 4 times before starting the job. Even with my little hangup it only took me 3 hours. I can email it to you if you need.

The little diagram above makes things REALLY easy to understand. I ended up reverting to that and it worked fine. :)

I just tried the link and it works just fine.

http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf