Quick front spring swap?
 

First off this isn't about spring compressors, jacking the car, or anything like that. And yes I did search.

I was looking at the Hayne's shop manual and its kinda unclear on some specifics in the front suspension.

I am wondering from people that are familiar with the FB's front suspension or have done a front spring swap before if there are any shortcuts from what the manual says to do. My friend thought it might be possible to somehow to get the bottom of the shock off without disassembling the entire front brake setup. Any insight into this? Thanks in advance.

You only *have* to remove the caliper, not the hanger/rotor/backing plate, *if* you can get to the bottom strut bolts. It can be tricky to get enough leverage. If you can't, then the backing plate has to come off.

Now, if you have non preloaded springs, swapping is super easy. Unbolt the tension rod from the control arm, unclip the brake hose from the strut, zip the upper strut nut with an impact, drop the strut/control arm waaay down to clear the fender, reverse to assemble.

Would old, sagging stock springs qualify as non preloaded springs in this case?

Usually not. The aftermarket short ones can be installed with out a compressor, I have yet to find stock springs do that.

Thanks all, especially peejay, these are the exact answers I was looking for.

Yeah, when I did mine I used a cutoff wheel (not really safe though) to cut the springs before I disassembled the strut. This avoided the need for a spring compressor since I was installing RB springs. I removed the four nuts at the top of the strut, then the two big bolts at the bottom of the strut, removed the brake caliper, and then the tension rod bolts (necessary to drop the strut far enough to remove).

Dude it takes about 5 minuts to take the front break assembly off, and it has a total of like 6 parts. Once you get into it you will see how easy it is, don't let the Haynes book of lies intimidate you.

Liar.

The bottom caliper bracket bolt is buried behind the steering arm. Removing the bracket usually entails fighting with this bolt with a deeply offset 14mm box wrench until the wrench can't fit between the bolthead and the arm, then slowly working at it with an open end wrench until the bolt bottoms against the steering arm.

Then you take off the wheel bearing nut and let the rotor fall against the caliper bracket and you walk the whole assembly outwards as you loosen the bolt, until it finally comes out.

Or you can cut the last 1/4" or so off of that bolt and omit the washer, which makes installation/removal possible without walking the rotor off, but it's still a pain.

-SE may be different.

Unbolt the tension rod?

That sure sounds like a good idea.

I probably should have done that, it would have made installing the strut much easier. :scratch:

Peejay, you don't need to remove the bracket, just the caliper... Moses, I didn't figure that out until I was on my 2nd strut. Getting the old strut out is a little easier that way, but putting the new one in is a hell of a lot easier that way...

That's what I said in my first post. I was merely reiterating how much of a hardcore PITA it is to remove the bracket to the guy who said it was no big deal.

But you do need to remove the bracket if you need to remove the backing plate to get a good angle on the lower strut bolts. Which you usually do unless they've been off recently.

I just wrote this up. May answer your question.

DIY : 1st Gen Front Suspension (w/ lots of pics)

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/diy-1st-gen-front-suspension-w-lots-pics-554914/

Peejay; those bolts never gave me any trouble as far as getting access to them. The key is to crank the wheel one way to get the first bolt, then the other way for the second bolt. I use a 1/2" drive with a 4 foot cheater bar. Once I got the originals out, I took them to Autozone and got some new replacements (which I highly recommend). While you're there, pick up replacemts for the tension rod bolts too (the ones that attach to the control arm). Now that I have new bolts on there, I'd agree that it takes about 5 minutes to drop the strut (once the tire is off, that is)...