problems with starter/solenoid
 

Long story short:
Found a dying 7, bought it for cheap (my 1st 7), seller said the the starter was shot so I bought another one, installed the new starter, engine wont crank. I went under the car with a pair of screwdrivers and boy, did sparks fly and the starter revved but I don't think the tranni cranked (I short circuited the starter). I am quite sure that I messed up the wiring as I have no idea which terminal to connect to since they are both identical and have no "S" or "R" on the solenoid and I don't know which is positive or negative. Also the wire that comes out of the starter and onto the solenoid was drawn on one terminal on the box but was on the other on the actual starter.

How can I tell which is which?

Should I flip some stuff around?

Before you do anything else make sure the engine can be turned over by hand. In other wards put a socket on the eccentric shaft pulley and see if the engine will turn by hand.

new starters arent always good starters, and i've learned that first hand

you should replace your battery cables for good measure

i'll second that, especially if they are the stock aluminum wires.

Looking at the back of the starter, the + cable goes on the larger left ut, the ing wire clips on the male spade, - cable is bolted down on the forward/front end of the long starter bolt the goes through the tranny and engine block.

Do not connect both battery cables to the backside of the starter, both of the big nuts/studs are +.

Yep, the engine turns by hand, with a certain "toink" sound (yes, it actually sounds like "toink")

How much of the wiring should I be changing (please don't say 'all of it')

Oh shit, I guess the previous guy made me f up since I just copied that. The positive wire is the thin red correct?

Follow the large + wire from the battery, it goes directly to the starter.

Ok cool, everything is set up and works... half of the time. Sometime there is just a loud click after I turn the ignition and sometimes it cranks. (more clicks than cranks) Does that signify bad cables? My battery is charged at around 12.5 volts...
She almost starts :)

Either you have a large voltage drop to the starter. Check the grounds throughly, mainly if it has the original negative cable. The weak point was at the junction where it attached to the body. Alot of clicking indicates one of the following. Solenoid failing,low voltage to the starter (have to do a load test on the battery) or the brushes are very worn. In other words the starter and battery should be tested.

brand new battery and starter, + both tested. Like I said, it works half of the time. Especially after I take out the battery, leave it for a while, put it back in and CRANK

If i'm getting this correct. You are having more problems when you take the battery out then reinstall? And why are you removing the battery from the car?

ANdrew64,
Recently my starter just clicked. Sometimes it did nothing. I replaced the starter, and all was fine for 2 weeks when it clicked again. What I found to be the problem was:

bad connection at the aluminum battery cable (positive)( 10 Ga?) at the cable end. In more detail, - the aftermarket kinda cheap cable end had 2 small bolts and a plate that clamped the Al cable to the the lead clamp. There was also a smalller copper wire about 14 Gauge, that was squeezed under that clamp too. That copper piece had plenty of corrossion that was visible. I cut the ends and cleaned it up and all is well again.

Check yours. Glad you are making progress.

The probelm is most likely high voltage drop in the wiring, or a bad ground since you just replaced the starter. But it could also be a faulty hold in winding in the starter, just a thought.