power window probs
 

Hi all.

I've got a 83 gsl with power windows. I fixed the switch on the pass side and had to replace the wire connector in the door (killed by vibration). So the motor works (slowly), but gets about 1/4 way up and window practically falls out! Something wrong with the mechanics in the sliders that keep the window level. I'd like to take the whole thing out and clean + lube it, but I can't get enough space to get it out.

Any suggestions on how to get the assembly out? Is there a way to remove that whole metal door panel? Is it possible to get the thing out though the little access spaces? I've tried for longer than I want to post here.

--Bennett

Mazdatrix has a whole new unit minus the motor for $166. Anyone know a cheaper source?

I got mine out of the salvage yard about 4 years ago, and only paid 20.00 for the rails and motors.

I hate my power windows. They work great for a little while then something messes up and I cant roll my windows down for fear of not being able to put them back up. I switched out my manual cranks back when I had a parts car, now I want to switch back.

Anyway to answer your question: yeah it fits out that big hole in your door. Disconnect the glass first then push the glass up to the top; take out the bolts that hold the regulator in place and push it in; then disconnect the motor (be careful because the regulator might be under pressure from its internal spring). Then all you do is squish it down and slide it out.

Cody

What is going on is the window is slipping out of the runners. Over time the rubber inserts just wear out, so only fix is to replace with new.

Not that expensive by mazda parts counter standards, and easy to install.

Also, at the front of the door is a 10mm nut you can loosen and push toward inside of door to tighten the front runner. This is the runner the window typically falls out of.

If you have one of those little soap bars you get at the hotels, try running it up and down inside the rubber tracts on front and back. That should ease the binding.

Also, yeah, it is a REALLY good idea to pull the window regulators and clean and re-grease the runner slides (when you look at it, you'll know what I mean). Everyplace you see old grease, remove and replace with new. The window will now go up at least twice as fast as before and you'll be good for another 5- 10 years of operation. :-)

When you pull the window, there are plastic inserts into which you screw the window into the regulator. Make sure you put the thinnest one at the front, or you'll have binding afterward.

I had elec. windows on my 83 GSL, and found that by disassembling the lowering/raising button and cleaning the contacts with Q-tips and alcohol, I extended their life a ton. It was better than buying new switches, which were about $80 then.

switches
 

Yeah! No need to replace any switches. Just clean em out and rough up to contacts and they're good for another 5year.

I cleaned and greased up my window lifting slides, but no improvement on the pass side. It seems like the main joint on the thing is just too loose. I'm waiting for the new runner seals. I hope they do the trick. If not, I'll get one of those glass-working suction cups and use that to pull the window up, then lock it in place :)

Thanks for the help.
--Bennett

Remember that the passenger window is rolled down/up way less than the drivers. Its possible that the wheels on the runners are simply locked up.

Alternatively, just replace it with a good used one from a wrecking yard. If you have a pull you own parts one near you, just pull a few and take the one who's joints seem the tightest and the wheels move easily. Should be cheap. If replacement isn't easy to access, PM me. I can help you out.

1st Gen power windows move at a snails pace, so what your describing must really bug!